• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,759
Reaction score
5,734
This is in the formal book??
It is not in the current book. It was in the previous formal wear book. Said this in my first post about this cloth. Have contacted Drapers to know if they have any stock left but won't know until next week. Friday is a national holiday in Italy.

These were the last two samples in the book. Didn't know why they were in the formal book, they seemed misplaced as you could only make them up as an odd jacket/blazer.
 

xizenta

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Messages
664
Reaction score
322
It is not in the current book. It was in the previous formal wear book. Said this in my first post about this cloth. Have contacted Drapers to know if they have any stock left but won't know until next week. Friday is a national holiday in Italy.

These were the last two samples in the book. Didn't know why they were in the formal book, they seemed misplaced as you could only make them up as an odd jacket/blazer.
Despos have you seen the Drapers Montecarlo book?
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,759
Reaction score
5,734
Not all tailor shops make the trousers in house, they out source making the trouser.
They may or may not cut the trouser.
Think that was Ambrosi’s main source of business early on, making for other shops.

Have always cut and made trousers in house.

Problem i have with current ways of teaching tailoring is they don’t emphasize trouser cutting and or making. In my day you started making trousers before jackets. You learn to sew, make pockets and various techniques that you use in coat making. You get more experience, faster, because you can make multiple trousers in the amount of time to make a jacket.
Dont think tailors put enough emphasis on fitting/making trouser. Generalization of the tailors I know.
I answer fit questions in the tailors thread but I get questions from tailors too. Get more questions about trousers than jackets from other tailors. Surprised me. Not as many parts to a trouser compared to a jacket but there are basics you have know and master.
 

kolecho

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2004
Messages
4,048
Reaction score
866
Not all tailor shops make the trousers in house, they out source making the trouser.
They may or may not cut the trouser.
Think that was Ambrosi’s main source of business early on, making for other shops.

Have always cut and made trousers in house.

Problem i have with current ways of teaching tailoring is they don’t emphasize trouser cutting and or making. In my day you started making trousers before jackets. You learn to sew, make pockets and various techniques that you use in coat making. You get more experience, faster, because you can make multiple trousers in the amount of time to make a jacket.
Dont think tailors put enough emphasis on fitting/making trouser. Generalization of the tailors I know.
I answer fit questions in the tailors thread but I get questions from tailors too. Get more questions about trousers than jackets from other tailors. Surprised me. Not as many parts to a trouser compared to a jacket but there are basics you have know and master.

My local tailor once told me jacket maker gets the glory while pants/shirt makers get the gold.
 

jonathanS

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
2,754
Reaction score
1,486
What is the appeal of using a separate jacket and trouser maker?

Well, in napoli it’s farmed out anyways. But also, when you use a separate trousermaker, they actually see you & your body.

I have 3 pairs of trousers from one of the largest houses in napoli that I cannot sit down in / wear. Tailors are hit or miss on trousers - their strength is the jacket, their focus is a jacket. Why have them do something they’re not as interested in doing?
 

jonathanS

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
2,754
Reaction score
1,486
Not all tailor shops make the trousers in house, they out source making the trouser.
They may or may not cut the trouser.
Think that was Ambrosi’s main source of business early on, making for other shops.

Have always cut and made trousers in house.

Problem i have with current ways of teaching tailoring is they don’t emphasize trouser cutting and or making. In my day you started making trousers before jackets. You learn to sew, make pockets and various techniques that you use in coat making. You get more experience, faster, because you can make multiple trousers in the amount of time to make a jacket.
Dont think tailors put enough emphasis on fitting/making trouser. Generalization of the tailors I know.
I answer fit questions in the tailors thread but I get questions from tailors too. Get more questions about trousers than jackets from other tailors. Surprised me. Not as many parts to a trouser compared to a jacket but there are basics you have know and master.
Waistcoat makers too. Plus, you have families who are in the business of waistcoat making and trouser making for generations & that skill is passed down from generation to generation.

Typically, if I’m ordering a suit, I’ll just let the tailor make the trousers (convenience), but if I’m ordering odd trousers, I’ll change it up. I don’t currently have a Naples tailor, but I’ll probably split it up & coordinate between the 2 tailors when I do use a Naples tailor.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,759
Reaction score
5,734
Well, in napoli it’s farmed out anyways. But also, when you use a separate trousermaker, they actually see you & your body.

I have 3 pairs of trousers from one of the largest houses in napoli that I cannot sit down in / wear. Tailors are hit or miss on trousers - their strength is the jacket, their focus is a jacket. Why have them do something they’re not as interested in doing?
I put as much or more attention to the trouser for the very reason/experience you describe. Remember a new client saying he knew he needed a tailor to make his jackets because of his fitting issues but saw more of a difference that he didn’t expect in how the trousers fit.
You may take your jacket off or not need to wear one but you live in the trouser.
Have to ask as many questions of a new client about how he wants the trouser to fit/feel as how he wants the jacket to fit/feel.
Yor have a different range of motion and movements are different for a trouser than a jacket. The cut has to focus on and accommodate those areas of movement.
Fitting the hip/seat area is like fitting the armhole on a jacket. Shapes and position has to be just right.
 

JHWilliams

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2020
Messages
563
Reaction score
458
8/10 English bespoke tailors outsource their trousers to trousermakers who work from home.

Not sure who Steven Hitchcock uses, but they are fantastic.
 

lordsuperb

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 30, 2009
Messages
8,956
Reaction score
12,490
Well, in napoli it’s farmed out anyways. But also, when you use a separate trousermaker, they actually see you & your body.

I have 3 pairs of trousers from one of the largest houses in napoli that I cannot sit down in / wear. Tailors are hit or miss on trousers - their strength is the jacket, their focus is a jacket. Why have them do something they’re not as interested in doing?
I gave Formosa my trousers from Steed and told them to copy. Problem solved!!!
 

jonathanS

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
2,754
Reaction score
1,486
I gave Formosa my trousers from Steed and told them to copy. Problem solved!!!
I wouldn’t brag about this, personally. I wouldn’t give another tailor a jacket to copy either.
 

JHWilliams

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2020
Messages
563
Reaction score
458
I wouldn’t brag about this, personally. I wouldn’t give another tailor a jacket to copy either.
The Duke of Windsor had Scholte cut his coats and had another tailor for his trousers. Scholte’s strength was in the drape cut of coatmaking. Whether or not the trousers were ordered from Scholte was immaterial, as they would have been farmed out anyways.
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,759
Reaction score
5,734
One story was that his English tailor wouldn’t use a zipper on his trousers and the American tailor would. True? Don’t know.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 45 40.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 44 39.6%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 5 4.5%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 18 16.2%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 25 22.5%

Forum statistics

Threads
504,422
Messages
10,573,921
Members
223,687
Latest member
corcelleglauru
Top