Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

Old Bedford cord
View attachment 1967007 View attachment 1967005

Made in Italy?

 

[Crispyj]

Made in Italy?

Pants, yes. Fabric, not sure.

 

[Despos]

Was only asking of the make. Italy is obvious to the trained eye. 😉

only Bedford cord I knew of in sample books was Holland & Sherry. I have a few yards, color is a few steps darker than a marshmallow

 

[JHWilliams]

Was only asking of the make. Italy is obvious to the trained eye. 😉

only Bedford cord I knew of in sample books was Holland & Sherry. I have a few yards, color is a few steps darker than a marshmallow

Dugdale Invincible Collection has some beautiful woolen cords!!!

 

[brax]

Lax tailors, nothing worse than that. Although somewhat lax isn’t as bad as fully lax

Lax brain surgeons?

 

[jonathanS]

Was only asking of the make. Italy is obvious to the trained eye. 😉

only Bedford cord I knew of in sample books was Holland & Sherry. I have a few yards, color is a few steps darker than a marshmallow

@Despos italian or English?

 

[Despos]

View attachment 1967239

@Despos italian or English?

I sense this is a trick question

 

[jonathanS]

I sense this is a trick question

well, typically fishtail backs are associated with English tailoring. so, I was intrigued when my friend & trousersmaker, Marco cerrato, had a model doing a fishtail back in Napoli. I figured I’d give it a go. I’m pleased with the result

 

[Despos]

well, typically fishtail backs are associated with English tailoring. so, I was intrigued when my friend & trousersmaker, Marco cerrato, had a model doing a fishtail back in Napoli. I figured I’d give it a go. I’m pleased with the result

@jonathanS

What type of fabric is this shirt?

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Best heavy hopsack is by Drapers. Hardly anyone knew about it because it was in their formal book.
Soft enough to feel like a sweater with enough body that it tailored well and you could shape it perfectly.
Hardy enough to hold its shape and not bag. Didn’t attract lint like you might expect.
Wore light for it‘s weight.
two colors, dark navy and darker navy.
it isn’t in the latest formal book, will find out if they still offer it

now you have to reveal it ahahaha

That is, the fabric code for sure.

If it's from the old(er) bunch, doesn't matter, we'll track it down.


Best,

Dimitris

Our treasured @Despos, would you be kind enough to post the old Drapers fabric code?


Thank you in advance,

Dimitris

 

[Despos]

And the lighter weight version

As you can see, Drapers cloth woven in England

 

[Bespoke DJP]

View attachment 1967425
And the lighter weight version View attachment 1967427 As you can see, Drapers cloth woven in England

Yes, indeed!

They have done it with other kind of fabric as well; I have in my image data base Drapers donegal fabrics (two colors: forest green and burgundy) made in England.

As you have already highlighted it has to do with the aspired result in relation to the experience, proficiency of the maker (some mills do certain things better than others).

In an Italian intra-mural game, Drapers used to - and still - delegate(s) the production of 100% cashmere jacketing fabrics ("Magic Cashmere" line) to Colombo. Unfortunately, I cannot say about 100% cashmere coating fabrics, as I haven't checked them.

These were already known, but our previous discussion was way saturated.

Thank you again for this.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[jonathanS]

@jonathanS

What type of fabric is this shirt?

Jersey Cotton. Not exactly what people think of when they think of dress shirts, but I bought one years ago from turnbull & asset, and after a lot of wear, retired it, and asked the shirtmaker for something similar. I've used it for dress shirts, but I think its best for button downs & polos.

 

[jonathanS]

View attachment 1967429
And the lighter weight version View attachment 1967427 As you can see, Drapers cloth woven in England

What’re your thoughts on drapers vs Eurotex hopsack / basket weave? I was in Naples comparing fabric.

 

[JHWilliams]

View attachment 1967429
And the lighter weight version View attachment 1967427 As you can see, Drapers cloth woven in England

This is in the formal book??