Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Tzerkuso]

Another Liverano tailor jumped ship. The end is nigh.

Let's launch bespoke gossip thread 🤣

 

[Crispyj]

Liverano was a normal workshop, until Antonio met this businessman from the middle east. Gave Antonio the idea to open a tailoring school and charge tuition. The tailoring school is the work around of paying tailoring apprentices stipends.

 

[classicalthunde]

Liverano was a normal workshop, until Antonio met this businessman from the middle east. Gave Antonio the idea to open a tailoring school and charge tuition. The tailoring school is the work around of paying tailoring apprentices stipends.

Sounds pretty shady for a spot charging $9K per suit

 

[Tzerkuso]

Sounds pretty shady for a spot charging $9K per suit

That’s how things are… Everywhere in Florence, and I think not just here - life of most people, who decided to dedicate their life to craft, is really not easy.

People who actually make your garments get tiny fraction of price and barely make ends meet, whether it’s at Liverano, Guida or other workshops often mentioned here…

 

[classicalthunde]

That’s how things are… Everywhere in Florence, and I think not just here - life of most people, who decided to dedicate their life to craft, is really not easy.

People who actually make your garments get tiny fraction of price and barely make ends meet, whether it’s at Liverano, Guida or other workshops often mentioned here…

It’s one thing to pay a the staff who make the garments a fraction of the total cost. But charging them tuition to make the garments is a different story…

 

[Tzerkuso]

It’s one thing to pay a the staff who make the garments a fraction of the total cost. But charging them tuition to make the garments is a different story…

Knowing as much of behind the scenes, as I do - it’s more or less the same thing, if not the other way around.

In my view - charging tuition is not as bad, as underpaying workers. Because a very high tuition would often be paid (and, I suppose, is targeted at) by young people with financial support, often from privileged families, so it’s a certain alternative to a fashion school - people pay and practice making real orders, isn’t that great for them? I am totally okay with that, other than would prefer, paying that price, my garments to be made by people slightly more experienced than ‘students’…

Underpaying workers, how I see it, is much worse - often these are truly passionate people who legitimately put their life to it - no matter what. Quite often not having the support behind them - many of these people have years of experience, but still same miserable pay. That’s why you see now so many new independent young tailors, because there is no other way, but try do ‘your own thing’, as you simply can’t pay your rent and eat - but that’s another story.

Besides that, quite soon there would not be any more people to simply do buttonholes, or pants (did you know it’s often being outsourced by all tailors of the city to one pantalonaia in their seventies or so?). So I guess there would be soon a time of one man operations here…

I hope I didn’t destroy glamours image of bespoke for anybody, but I think it’s important to remember who and how made our garments, not just when entering into a mass market shop.

#fairtradebespoke #longlivembt #bespokegossip

 

[Dark Star]

Wanted to follow this up with some pics to show what I mean. These go in order, left to right, from Lobb Paris to Lobb St. James to Templeman:

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

No pictures but, I have four projects being worked upon:

By Joseph Genuardi
1) A trench coat of Holland & Sherry Ventile in stone grey
2) A tuxedo in black; I forget the maker at the moment (it's been a while)

By John Di Pietro
1) Two pairs of trousers in Pepper Lee stone grey mohair and wool blend (the original pair that were made with a suit met with an unfortunate accident... which is to say an irreparable tear as I lifted myself into a vehicle)
2) A Magee Tweed overcoat

 

[Sreezy36]

Wanted to follow this up with some pics to show what I mean. These go in order, left to right, from Lobb Paris to Lobb St. James to Templeman:

What is this “follow up” in reference to? Seems like random pictures.

 

[Dark Star]

This

With the exception of G&G, which I can’t comment on because I’ve never used them, those are all good choices. But outside of being bespoke shoes their differences outweigh their similarities. My Templeman last is fairly elegant but a tad elongated and other than the toe shape almost a spitting image of my last from Cleverley. The finishing on the Templeman is perhaps better than Cleverley but I’m happy enough with both. Both leave a bit more room than other makers. Good choices if you want a longer last and a larger looking shoe. Lobb St. James has a charming look to it (at least to my eye) but it is not particularly stylish and it looks the least like what one thinks of when one imagines a bespoke shoe compared to the others. The service is great and professional. Lobb Paris is I think a step up to the others. Everything is closer and more refined and the willingness to accept such a small margin of error implies a confidence in their craft. They look and fit better and appear significantly less elongated to the naked eye. They fit closer and comfier. The price difference is of course not insignificant at JLP. And YMMV.

 

[Crispyj]

Knowing as much of behind the scenes, as I do - it’s more or less the same thing, if not the other way around.

In my view - charging tuition is not as bad, as underpaying workers. Because a very high tuition would often be paid (and, I suppose, is targeted at) by young people with financial support, often from privileged families, so it’s a certain alternative to a fashion school - people pay and practice making real orders, isn’t that great for them? I am totally okay with that, other than would prefer, paying that price, my garments to be made by people slightly more experienced than ‘students’…

Underpaying workers, how I see it, is much worse - often these are truly passionate people who legitimately put their life to it - no matter what. Quite often not having the support behind them - many of these people have years of experience, but still same miserable pay. That’s why you see now so many new independent young tailors, because there is no other way, but try do ‘your own thing’, as you simply can’t pay your rent and eat - but that’s another story.

Besides that, quite soon there would not be any more people to simply do buttonholes, or pants (did you know it’s often being outsourced by all tailors of the city to one pantalonaia in their seventies or so?). So I guess there would be soon a time of one man operations here…

I hope I didn’t destroy glamours image of bespoke for anybody, but I think it’s important to remember who and how made our garments, not just when entering into a mass market shop.

#fairtradebespoke #longlivembt #bespokegossip

I agree with everything besides #longlivembt
You have to let me know who it is at least!

 

[Tzerkuso]

Valentino Tissus 60% hemp 40% mohair

Light as a shirt.

#mbt

 

[comrade]

No pictures but, I have four projects being worked upon:

By Joseph Genuardi
1) A trench coat of Holland & Sherry Ventile in

No pictures but, I have four projects being worked upon:

By Joseph Genuardi
1) A trench coat of Holland & Sherry Ventile in stone grey
2) A tuxedo in black; I forget the maker at the moment (it's been a while)

By John Di Pietro
1) Two pairs of trousers in Pepper Lee stone grey mohair and wool blend (the original pair that were made with a suit met with an unfortunate accident... which is to say an irreparable tear as I lifted myself into a vehicle)
2) A Magee Tweed overcoat

Himself:

 

[comrade]

Valentino Tissus 60% hemp 40% mohair

Light as a shirt.

#mbt

View attachment 1931461

Gorgeous.

 

[Tzerkuso]

Gorgeous.

Thank you!