Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[lordsuperb]

First seems…very slim across the shoulders? I like the purple monstrosity (or whatever it’s affectionately named) a good deal more.

I have the same issue with Steed first order, divots in the shoulders due to narrow armhole and small sleeve head.

Yeah the first two suits were slim in the shoulders and wide in the hips. It was not flattering but they were able to fix.

I hesitate to try additional bespoke artisans given the growing pains. I also wouldn’t recommend bespoke to friends or colleagues unless they are willing to invest some money in the process.

 

[lordsuperb]

11 I think was hyperbole and like most Foo-isms isn’t totally accurate. But I think there’s something to be said for the first couple orders being about learning each other’s preferences, navigating those and dialing in the details. I forget who said it but I internalized it and the first garment or pair of shoes I get made are the makers. I obviously pick the broad strokes and fabric/leather but will let them pick the details, styling, cut/last shape etc. After that I can nibble around the edges with preferences and what works for me and my eye.

He was implying one can not make a true observation about a tailor after a few commissions.

Does sampling multiple tailors allow you to see what one is capable of after a few commissions? What happens when you get to jacket number 11 and you and the tailor both start to explore different cuts and styles?

 

[Texasmade]

He was implying one can not make a true observation about a tailor after a few commissions.

Does sampling multiple tailors allow you to see what one is capable of after a few commissions? What happens when you get to jacket number 11 and you and the tailor both start to explore different cuts and styles?

You transition to bespoke western shirts at that point

 

[JohnMRobie]

You transition to bespoke western shirts at that point

Or go back to RTW.

 

[Alias]

11 I think was hyperbole and like most Foo-isms isn’t totally accurate. But I think there’s something to be said for the first couple orders being about learning each other’s preferences, navigating those and dialing in the details. I forget who said it but I internalized it and the first garment or pair of shoes I get made are the makers. I obviously pick the broad strokes and fabric/leather but will let them pick the details, styling, cut/last shape etc. After that I can nibble around the edges with preferences and what works for me and my eye.

Yeah 11 is silly. 3 max. If it takes more than that then You Are Doing It Wrong.

I commissioned my first suit with Steed and it's not perfect but it's mostly there. Has less to do with their skill and more to do with me losing the weight I gained during the pandemic. Edwin advised me to give it some honest wear and I have, so I'll have something to report when I meet with them again later this month.

 

[bourbonbasted]

My first jacket from Steed was almost perfect and epitomized teh drape. The second jacket is far-and-away the best-fitting coat I own. The third jacket I tried to get cute and went for a less structured look. I almost never wear it.

This is a cautionary tale that you can "over-correct" on tweaks and changes as you get more familiar with a tailor. More jackets doesn't necessarily mean better jackets, especially if you're constantly updating/changing things.

 

[clothingfun]

I have a general question for everyone who does bespoke tailoring: how many tailors do you have? And how often do you commission from each tailor?

Hello all and I hope everyone is well. I haven’t checked in for awhile. Interesting discussion and reading the various replies.

I have only used three tailors as I like to stay focused and build relationships. With anything in life, once I find what works, I tend to stay with it.

That said:

Dege and Skinner- Five sport coats and three pairs of britches. I’ve been doing fairly regular commissions over the last several years but will be slowing down quite a bit as I feel I now pretty much have everything I really want. Probably one more jacket sometime but no hurry.

The latest sport coat I’ve been providing updates on in this thread (the tan POW fabric) was finished up and shipped about a week before Christmas. I haven’t had a chance to wear it out and about yet, just tried it on, for various reasons but will do so soon and will share a photo here. It came out fantastic. Nick really has me dialed in.

Gary my “sort of local-ish” guy- Two three piece suits, one sport coat, numerous pairs of britches. Excellent garments. Nowadays, he’s an MTM shop due to his three employees passing away and he literally can’t find anyone to replace them. Sign of the tailoring times I guess. However, for a few of his older and long time clients like myself he will still do some bespoke. About once a year now I have him make me a pair of britches as the fit and look are excellent and they see regular use.

Anto Bespoke- My bespoke shirtmaker for over twenty years now. About three or four orders a year of various quantities. I give them regular business and always will as a nice shirt is pretty much a daily wear item for me. In regards to bespoke shirt making; Jack, Ken, and Anthony are the best in the business.

Cowboy boots (I don’t wear dress shoes)- Off the rack. I have a couple pairs of bespoke. They are certainly nice and I don’t regret it at all. However, it’s something I don’t feel the need to do again.

As far as a tailoring wish list type of thing, I do have one. I would love to commission a sport coat from Michael Browne. I actually very seriously looked into it at one time but decided it’s probably not going to happen. His prices don’t bother me but rather all the travel that would be required. Particularly because I live in such a rural area and his garments require numerous fittings while he only does very minimal trunk shows. Ultimately, I decided it’s a bit too much of a hassle.

Darn this was fun to share! Typing it out brought back some good memories.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

I only used one tailor. Was very happy with my first order and never felt the need to try another. 7 suits, 4 sport coats and 4 odd trousers so far.

 

[reidd]

If you are reasonably normally sized/proportioned, a good tailor should be able to give you a fantastic result on the first try with 2-3 fittings.

 

[lordsuperb]

If you are reasonably normally sized/proportioned, a good tailor should be able to give you a fantastic result on the first try with 2-3 fittings.

And yet they all mess up at some point.

 

[Sreezy36]

When working with new bespoke tailors do you guys highlight or mention problematic fit areas and other fit related issues that you have had in the past?

For example, one consistent issue that I have had is not having enough width in the upper sleeve near the armhole(biceps area). I will most definitely make sure to explain the issue and my experiences if I decide to work with any new tailor. I was wondering if others do the same.

 

[gimpwiz]

Of course, Sreezy. Why wouldn't one point out trouble points to avoid them?

 

[Sreezy36]

Of course, Sreezy. Why wouldn't one point out trouble points to avoid them?

For the same reason that some people don’t point out the problematic areas to their barber or hair stylist for example. Maybe they are unaware of the exact issue or problematic area. Or maybe they have an expectation that the artisan is aware of any irregularities and potential fit issues. From my experience, the latter is very much so not always the case.

 

[Texasmade]

I don’t really need to point out my perfect muscular physique. It’s already evident when they see me

 

[poorsod]

Lol, not quite. I still need to do the initial fitting for my glasses and another fitting for my Corthay shoes. I'm hoping both of those won't require another fitting and they can both be completed by summer.

I recall I had a fitting and delivery from Maison Bonnet the same day. But mine are acetate not tortoise. I also returned to get new lenses and that took 2-3 days.