Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[lordsuperb]

Ive used 3.
1. Huntsman in NYC- 2 suits
2. Cifonelli- 1 suit
3. Sartoria Gallo NYC/Eric Jensen- 2 suits

I don’t commission that often because I don’t wear suits that often. I can’t be like Kirby Allison, Simon Crompton, or Hugo Jacomet and try every tailor you can think of.

Really, the only tailor I still want to try would be Camps de Luca. I would also like to do another Cifonelli but it’s too much of a hassle to fly to NYC for fittings for either Parisian tailor.

No sport coats?

 

[Texasmade]

No sport coats?

No sport coats. It’s not really my thing

 

[tdang]

I have a general question for everyone who does bespoke tailoring: how many tailors do you have? And how often do you commission from each tailor?

I have 5, which cover the major schools of Italian tailoring with the odd English tailor:

1. Sartoria Cresent (Milanese)
2. Liverano & Liverano (Florentine)
3. Sartoria Corcos (Florentine)
4. Sartoria Silvano (Neapolitan)
5. Robert Bailey (English)

I travel to Europe 2 times a year (3 if I'm lucky), each visit is about 6-8 months apart and lasts about 10-14 days (usually enough time for a first fitting). Only 3 of my tailors do trunk shows in Asia, which is where I'm based, and of those 3 I can only realistically visit 2.

So turnaround time for me is rather long (9 months to a year for first orders), which is why ordering a minimum of 2 garments at each visit is almost a must for me.

I tend to order the most from the tailor whose style I deem to be most versatile, which at the moment seems to be Cresent (Milanese). When I visit him, I usually commission a total of 4 - 6 pieces, with a 60/40 mix of odd jackets and suits. I have ordered 9-10 garments from him.

Liverano and Corcos are quite busy so I can’t order as many (well technically I can, but they just won’t be finished all at once). Between these 2 Florentines I have a total of 10 things underway at varying stages of completion, about half of which will be delivered in the first half of 2023.

I love Silvano (he’s based in Japan) but he works alone and thus delivery time is somewhere around 1.5 years. I am trying to build a working wardrobe, so I only use Silvano for special pieces or more refined versions of things I already have or have outgrown.

Robert Bailey travels frequently but his style (heavily structured) is not something I wear often, so just one thing at a time. I am getting a finished DB pinstripe suit in Feb and also will be fitted for a dinner suit.

For the first order, ideally I try to order both a single breasted and a double breasted just to save on the time needed to develop separate patterns for subsequent orders.

On my next trip to EU, I’ve made plans to see Zizolfi and order some more basics - linen suits, navy sport coats and their ilk.

 

[classicalthunde]

I have a general question for everyone who does bespoke tailoring: how many tailors do you have? And how often do you commission from each tailor?

I'm constrained by budget, so I basically use Divij Bespoke (2 suits, 3 sport coats) and I Sarti Italiani (1 suit and 1 sport coat in the works).

In a perfect world where money was no object, I'd ideally have 4 tailors: one English for suits, one American/ivy style for tweeds and F/W sportscoats, one Neapolitan for fun S/S suits and sport coats, and one for odd trousers and shirts

 

[bullethead]

NSM-4 sport jackets, 2 trousers
greenfield-suit, 2 overcoats, 2 trousers
steed-jacket
mahon-jacket
Chipp-overcoat
Shattuck-jacket (working)
several shirt makers

 

[sargeinaz]

Those mustard trousers are amazing. I would’ve never thought I’d like mustard pants that much.

 

[Texasmade]

I should add
Hamilton- bunch of dress shirts, SS linen shirts, and some Hawaiian shirts
JLP- 2 pairs of shoes
Corthay- 1 pair of shoes in progress. It's been several years in the making due to Covid.
Nicholas Templeman- 1 pair of shoes in progress
Maison Bonnet- eyeglasses in progress

Potential new project starting- leather jacket with Savas.

 

[lordsuperb]

I have a general question for everyone who does bespoke tailoring: how many tailors do you have? And how often do you commission from each tailor?

I used two before the start of Covid, but one of the tailor's retired and no longer travels stateside. I usually made an order every 2 to 3 years when I had money saved up. I've thought about starting a relationship with a new tailor but there are too many variables at play now that I'm married.

Everyone definitely has a different experience but I think you need to order consistently once a year to get things dialed in. Once you have your fit dialed in and established a good working relationship you can scale things back.

 

[classicalthunde]

Shattuck-jacket (working)

How's this project going? Is Frank still virtual fittings only?

I love the tweed he did for @Crispyj

 

[Crispyj]

Not everything I've ever commissioned, but the ones I'll stick with.

Zizolfi: 2 suits, pants by PML. 1 jacket.
1 suit and 1 jacket planned.

Corcos: 1 coat, 3 jackets.

Qemal: 1 coat, 1 suit. Has a shirt maker testing out.
2 suit and 1 jacket planned.

CAID: 1 suit.
Some chinos and casual suits planned.

Pommella: 1 pants. Ordering from PML as I don't care too much for hand stitched pants.

 

[bullethead]

How's this project going? Is Frank still virtual fittings only?

I love the tweed he did for @Crispyj

So far, so good. I believe he does in person, if you are up that way. He’s doing a jacket from a vintage Johnstons estate tweed. Probably 40 years old. Look forward to it

 

[JohnMRobie]

Tailors: One Neapolitan maker, one English drape maker
Shoemakers: One Japanese maker, one ex-British Italian based maker, one American
Shirts: Neapolitan for casual summer shirts, Hong Kong based for business shirts

 

[circumspice]

I think in May it will be 5 years I have done stuff with B&Tailor. I will have 4 sport coats and 4 suits by then, most likely. I am just good enough at buying flights where I have been able to schedule layovers in Seoul for near-free on a few Asian vacations beyond one actual trip to Seoul, so I have bookended a few trips with fittings.

I am actually doing this again in just a month or two, and I am contemplating if I am going to commission anything else to try to take advantage of my appointments.

I have done 1 SC and 3 suits with I Sarti, but nothing currently in the works - I wasn't able to get to NYC in the fall, and not sure if I will make it next month. I am thinking some trousers and maybe finally getting that length of chocolate cord made up.

The backdrop of all of this is that I am still WFH 100%, and have literally spent 5 days doing work stuff outside my home in about the last 3 years. What I should be commissioning are some baller robes from Fox Bro's MTM service.

I am not sure if my commissions in the last 3 years are just therapy by other means.

What I probably need to commission is a proper overcoat - my RTW stuff is showing some wear.

 

[GzianoCucinelli]

I have a general question for everyone who does bespoke tailoring: how many tailors do you have? And how often do you commission from each tailor?

I've tried 4 tailors: Napolis Su Misura, Steed Tailors, Sartoria Jensen (now Sartoria Gallo), and Sartoria Corcos

Shoes: I've only tried Nicholas Templeman and intend to stick with him - he's great

Now married, working remotely/virtually, and with a kid on the way I'm aiming for 1-2 commissions every 1/1.5 years.

Past few years I've stuck with 2 of the 4: Steed Tailors (for suiting, really heavy fabric/London Lounge Fabric) and Sartoria Corcos (Odd Jackets that I usually pair with denim, and anything light weight)

 

[jonathanS]

I think in May it will be 5 years I have done stuff with B&Tailor. I will have 4 sport coats and 4 suits by then, most likely. I am just good enough at buying flights where I have been able to schedule layovers in Seoul for near-free on a few Asian vacations beyond one actual trip to Seoul, so I have bookended a few trips with fittings.

I am actually doing this again in just a month or two, and I am contemplating if I am going to commission anything else to try to take advantage of my appointments.

I have done 1 SC and 3 suits with I Sarti, but nothing currently in the works - I wasn't able to get to NYC in the fall, and not sure if I will make it next month. I am thinking some trousers and maybe finally getting that length of chocolate cord made up.

The backdrop of all of this is that I am still WFH 100%, and have literally spent 5 days doing work stuff outside my home in about the last 3 years. What I should be commissioning are some baller robes from Fox Bro's MTM service.

I am not sure if my commissions in the last 3 years are just therapy by other means.

What I probably need to commission is a proper overcoat - my RTW stuff is showing some wear.

Just had the parks make you a bespoke robe! Screw this mtm stuff. Bespoke! Lol