Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[me.spoke]

For there to be no padding, the shoulder line looks pretty solid, especially with spalla camicia. 👌🏾 I’m wondering if this is attributed to how the shoulders were cut, given you mentioned that the shoulder width had been reduced, or to way the non-padded jacket hangs off your shoulders, which, I’m guessing, are likely square? Either way, the line it casts looks good. Bravo again.

Maybe they pushed the chest canvass into the shoulders.

Yes, I have square shoulders which produces an effect I don’t like in most non-bespoke garments. And you got it right - although there is no padding in the shoulders per se, Mr Błoński uses double layer of chest canvas to maintain their line intact over the years, saying otherwise they tend to lose shape. I enclose a picture of the jacket interior (sorry, the quality is not excellent).

 

[jiredell]

Yes, I have square shoulders which produces an effect I don’t like in most non-bespoke garments. And you got it right - although there is no padding in the shoulders per se, Mr Błoński uses double layer of chest canvas to maintain their line intact over the years, saying otherwise they tend to lose shape. I enclose a picture of the jacket interior (sorry, the quality is not excellent). View attachment 1793801

That’s a pretty slick way to handle it. You found yourself a good tailor. Suit is beautiful.

 

[jiredell]

Out for the lady, earning a service award from Emory

 

[jiredell]

Originally, my intention was to slowly, over time, replace my ready-to-wear wardrobe with a bespoke one. But, I live in Georgia (USA), so throughout the summer I wear a good amount of seersucker, and I'm not sure that bespoke seersucker's quite worth it. But I'd be curious all yalls thoughts.

 

[Sreezy36]

Originally, my intention was to slowly, over time, replace my ready-to-wear wardrobe with a bespoke one. But, I live in Georgia (USA), so throughout the summer I wear a good amount of seersucker, and I'm not sure that bespoke seersucker's quite worth it. But I'd be curious all yalls thoughts.

@Andy57 has experience with a bespoke summer suit made with a wool blend seersucker from LP. He can definitely give you some recommendations. Also, Mark Cho of the Armoury speaks highly of Drapers wool seersucker and has bespoke garments made from the bunch. If I were to go the bespoke seersucker route I would choose either the LP or Drapers options. Most definitely a non cotton wool or wool blend seersucker for me.

 

[jiredell]

@Andy57 has experience with a bespoke summer suit made with a wool blend seersucker from LP. He can definitely give you some recommendations. Also, Mark Cho of the Armoury speaks highly of Drapers wool seersucker and has bespoke garments made from the bunch. If I were to go the bespoke seersucker route I would choose either the LP or Drapers options. Most definitely a non cotton wool or wool blend seersucker for me.

Thx. Good to know. I know that @Andy57 lives in the Bay Area—which is my own home-neck-of-the-woods. So the climate isn’t at all like a summer in GA. But good to know nonetheless.

 

[Andy57]

@Andy57 has experience with a bespoke summer suit made with a wool blend seersucker from LP. He can definitely give you some recommendations.

Thx. Good to know. I know that @Andy57 lives in the Bay Area—which is my own home-neck-of-the-woods. So the climate isn’t at all like a summer in GA. But good to know nonetheless.

Yes, I highly recommend Loro Piana's wool & silk blend seersucker. It's light, drapes nicely, and resists wrinkles. It's true the Bay Area isn't like Georgia. I'm not sure what you'd do in that humidity. Linen, maybe?

Here's my suit made up from the LP seersucker:

 

[FlowableFill]

Originally, my intention was to slowly, over time, replace my ready-to-wear wardrobe with a bespoke one. But, I live in Georgia (USA), so throughout the summer I wear a good amount of seersucker, and I'm not sure that bespoke seersucker's quite worth it. But I'd be curious all yalls thoughts.

Loro Piana and drapers both make wool seersucker. I've handled swatches of both and I think both would make good suits.

Grosgrain fabric for Suit by Vitale Barberis Canonico - 30053

Worsted blue fabric (cod. 30053) from the Jackets and Solaire bunch. Buy now online on Drapers Italy and create your made to measure suit.

drapersitaly.it

Loro Piana Mare - Hall Madden

http://hallmadden.com

hallmadden.smugmug.com

I actually got to try on a jacket made of the loro piana fabric. It would be great for hot weather. I just had my tailor start a suit in it. It may be ready for a first fitting in July.

 

[jiredell]

I asked a question somewhat related to this I think in the cloth thread about fresco. I owned a fresco suit about twenty years ago, when I lived in Nevada’s desert heat. But it’s a very different environment, desert dry heat, versus subtropical humid heat. I don’t think I got any kind of answer. My feel is that one must feel it out via trial and error.

 

[FlowableFill]

I asked a question somewhat related to this I think in the cloth thread about fresco. I owned a fresco suit about twenty years ago, when I lived in Nevada’s desert heat. But it’s a very different environment, desert dry heat, versus subtropical humid heat. I don’t think I got any kind of answer. My feel is that one must feel it out via trial and error.

I live in south Texas and had a crispaire suit made a couple years ago. I wouldn't wear it in 90+ high humidity weather but it's pretty good for my location all things considered. Especially since I spend most of the time in air conditioned buildings.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Originally, my intention was to slowly, over time, replace my ready-to-wear wardrobe with a bespoke one. But, I live in Georgia (USA), so throughout the summer I wear a good amount of seersucker, and I'm not sure that bespoke seersucker's quite worth it. But I'd be curious all yalls thoughts.

Just a word of warning if your tailor needs to order the LP if you go that route they do sell out quickly. I believe they estimated it would be back in stock in August.

 

[jiredell]

I live in south Texas and had a crispaire suit made a couple years ago. I wouldn't wear it in 90+ high humidity weather but it's pretty good for my location all things considered. Especially since I spend most of the time in air conditioned buildings.

Yeah I’m thinking of something workable for those inevitable moments one needs to be outdoors, but can be relatively comfortable, but still looking good

 

[ericgereghty]

I asked a question somewhat related to this I think in the cloth thread about fresco. I owned a fresco suit about twenty years ago, when I lived in Nevada’s desert heat. But it’s a very different environment, desert dry heat, versus subtropical humid heat. I don’t think I got any kind of answer. My feel is that one must feel it out via trial and error.

As you likely know, nothing feels “good” in heinous humidity, if you’re wearing tailored clothing. I don’t think medium to heavyweight linen is good for that climate. High twist is probably your best bet. Wear with linen shirts, and cut it roomy enough so don’t feel “trapped” when moving about and feeling sticky.

 

[jiredell]

In my RTW or OFR seersucker options I’ve been quite satisfied wearing them in pretty boiling situations. There was one time at an outdoor event in 96 degrees F weather with something around 90% humidity, and it was a church picnic to boot! So heat + humidity + gods eternal threat of damnation should’ve been unbearable. Yet I think I felt more comfortable in a cotton seersucker suit with a straw fedora, than I’d have felt wearing anything else. Not so much cotton or linen though. The weave of the seersucker has a natural wicking ability.

 

[Mark from Plano]

I had two suits from the LP seersucker made up by Joe & Divij Hemrajani. Love them. Here is one from a recent Kentucky Derby party. The other is the same configuration but in the fabric Andy wears above.