Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[FlyingHorker]

I have a wool robe that looks great but I don't wear it very much because it's a bit scratchy. Would it be possible to have a tailor put a lining in it?

I think so. @dieworkwear mentioned this is possible.

IIRC, will have to get used to the slippery, cool feeling of it on your skin too.

I was thinking of getting the sleeves and upper back area lined.

 

[dieworkwear]

I think so. @dieworkwear mentioned this is possible.

IIRC, will have to get used to the slippery, cool feeling of it on your skin too.

I was thinking of getting the sleeves and upper back area lined.

I have a wool robe that looks great but I don't wear it very much because it's a bit scratchy. Would it be possible to have a tailor put a lining in it?

You can reline a sport coat, so I assume you can put in a lining into a dressing gown after it has been made. I have a Fox Flannel dressing gown with a lining in it. Around the upper back and sleeves. I don't think it's comfortable against bare skin -- it's a bit slippery and cold. I think you'll find that you wear it over PJs either way.

 

[ValidusLA]

Ahh gotcha...yeah I like most of their famous historical paintings but personally as much as it would be cool to have their linings, I feel it does not vibe with most of my commissions...which are mostly dinner jackets anyway! I may get one of these prints someday for a fun boucle jacket or an 80s inspired armani cut. Having one of the famous japanese woodblock prints as a lining would be dope!

Sorry if it came across as I was trying to knock you down...what I meant was for me personally it is one of those really fun ideas which does not tend to work out for me due to clashing formalities and minimnalist philosophies if that makes sense

No I dig - I would expect most people to frankly think my lining habit is garish. I get the minimalism thing, and I'm not sure I would have the gall to throw lining like that in a dinner jacket. My only bespoke one definitely does not have printed lining.

 

[ValidusLA]

@dieworkwear I feel like here is a good place to ask you.

I finally am back in the office enough where I'm dressing daily and I got of my keister to finally start looking into getting shirts I'm really happy with.

Your recommendation of Ascot Chang before had been what I was going to do, but low and behold the Beverly Hills store has been permanently closed (which is too bad).

So I am now going to wait until my daughter can get vaccinated and New York travel for me resumes again.

If I'm doing it in NY, would you still recommend AC?

Anyone here think T+A is a better call?

Other options?

Thanks!

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear I feel like here is a good place to ask you.

I finally am back in the office enough where I'm dressing daily and I got of my keister to finally start looking into getting shirts I'm really happy with.

Your recommendation of Ascot Chang before had been what I was going to do, but low and behold the Beverly Hills store has been permanently closed (which is too bad).

So I am now going to wait until my daughter can get vaccinated and New York travel for me resumes again.

If I'm doing it in NY, would you still recommend AC?

Anyone here think T+A is a better call?

Other options?

Thanks!

In the past, the three most recommended NCY shirtmakers here included CEGO, Paris Custom Shirt, and Geneva Custom Shirts. I don't know if the last two are still around. Most people went to CEGO. I haven't tried any of those three, so I can't comment on their work directly. However, every Christmas, I buy a friend a custom CEGO shirt since he has his pattern there and speaks highly of Carl's work. I know he loves his shirts.

I've stopped by Ascot Chang's Bev Hills and Beijing locations, and have been fitted at both locations. I think Nelson Chin does a better job. He travels twice a year through the United States as part of Ascot Chang's trunk shows. If you were to get a custom shirt from AC, I recommend doing it through their trunk shows.

MyTailor, now Divij Bespoke, is also located near you.

My impression is that many of these places are comparable. They all make machine-made shirts. I can't speak to anyone besides AC since I've only used AC for bespoke shirts. I think they do very consistent and precise work. In the US, some Italian traveling tailors also offer shirt services. Some make their shirts with a bit more ornamental handwork, if you're willing to pay for it. There's also something about the way that Italian shirtmakers make their collars that I think looks special. Ascot Chang has been able to create any collar I ask, but they haven't been able to replicate whatever Italian shirtmakers do to their collars.

 

[ValidusLA]

In the past, the three most recommended NCY shirtmakers here included CEGO, Paris Custom Shirt, and Geneva Custom Shirts. I don't know if the last two are still around. Most people went to CEGO. I haven't tried any of those three, so I can't comment on their work directly. However, every Christmas, I buy a friend a custom CEGO shirt since he has his pattern there and speaks highly of Carl's work. I know he loves his shirts.

I've stopped by Ascot Chang's Bev Hills and Beijing locations, and have been fitted at both locations. I think Nelson Chin does a better job. He travels twice a year through the United States as part of Ascot Chang's trunk shows. If you were to get a custom shirt from AC, I recommend doing it through their trunk shows.

MyTailor, now Divij Bespoke, is also located near you.

My impression is that many of these places are comparable. They all make machine-made shirts. I can't speak to anyone besides AC since I've only used AC for bespoke shirts. I think they do very consistent and precise work. In the US, some Italian traveling tailors also offer shirt services. Some make their shirts with a bit more ornamental handwork, if you're willing to pay for it. There's also something about the way that Italian shirtmakers make their collars that I think looks special. Ascot Chang has been able to create any collar I ask, but they haven't been able to replicate whatever Italian shirtmakers do to their collars.

Thanks, I'm not familiar with CEGO. I have some Divij shirts. I would describe them as good but not perfect. I might honestly be chasing a phantom, but who knows.

T+A I think has a 5 shirt minimum for a first order, do you know about CEGO and AC?

Thanks again!

EDIT: I'm lazy. Cego specifies 5 minimum on their website.

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks, I'm not familiar with CEGO. I have some Divij shirts. I would describe them as good but not perfect. I might honestly be chasing a phantom, but who knows.

T+A I think has a 5 shirt minimum for a first order, do you know about CEGO and AC?

Thanks again!

EDIT: I'm lazy. Cego specifies 5 minimum on their website.

AC used to say four, but if you asked nicely, they often let you order three. It may actually be three now.

 

[FlowableFill]

You can send a shirt in to 100 Hands for them to measure and reproduce. You can order just one at a time but it has to be a gold line shirt ($450-$500) if there are significant changes to the pattern. The Armoury can help out. I'm in the process of getting my first shirt made so I can't comment on the quality but they have a fit guarantee on their website.

 

[lordsuperb]

You can send a shirt in to 100 Hands for them to measure and reproduce. You can order just one at a time but it has to be a gold line shirt ($450-$500) if there are significant changes to the pattern. The Armoury can help out. I'm in the process of getting my first shirt made so I can't comment on the quality but they have a fit guarantee on their website.

What exactly are you paying for at that price range?

 

[dieworkwear]

Oh yea, 100 Hands. I handled one of their handmade shirts once and was impressed with the handwork.

 

[JohnMRobie]

What exactly are you paying for at that price range?

Their gold line is mainly (if not entirely) handmade - I’m fine with machine made and most of my shirts fall into that bucket but the gold line are definitely well done if thats your thing. Nice fabrics available, too.

Spoiler: Not Bespoke - 100Hands GL Details

Side seam:

 

[EFV]

I've got 5-6 shirts from 100 Hands. Top stuff! The seams are incredibly meticulous.

 

[Krish the Fish]

Crompton also talks about the Italians and their shirt collars… there must be something there (fwiw my shirts are all Inglese OTR from NMWA or Proper Cloth, so I have experience with Italian shirts but not quite sure if I have appreciation for their collars. Certainly the handwork aspect is nice but I think lost on me). Budd also travels to the US, any opinion yay or nay for them @dieworkwear ?

 

[Krish the Fish]

My wife and I talked about going to India to see the sights (she’s never been, I went every other year growing up to visit family but only saw the big tourist stuff once as a kid). I have had the crazy idea in my head that when we go, we take a detour to the 100Hands factory and see their work in action, get measured and have shirts made by them. Probably out of the realm of practicality and possibility though (and not just because of Covid)

 

[RSS]

Here I am at age 70-something and for the first time since the 1970's I have not one ongoing bespoke clothing/shoe project. It's feels odd and yet strangely liberating. Of course, when I look at my closets I realize that I need no more tailored clothing. I do, however, wonder if a want will hit.

Now, I should be totally honest, I'm about to have a tweed coat made for Robert Rauschienbark. He sits in a corner of my credenza. Then perhaps something Chanel-esque for Peggy Guggenhound.