Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

I would do flannel suits in almost every shade and patterns of blue and grey. The char blue from Fox and the black chalkstripe from H.Lesser LGB are cloths I would love to have made in the future. How not to like charcoal chalkstripe or black & white PoW as well? Closet space and ocasion to wear them would be the only reasons not to have them made at some point in life.

My second favorite flannel suit (the mid grey is first favorite) was a pale, muted celery green. So muted you can't tell the color at a glance, requires a closer look. Made it up as a DB. Found and used the perfect horn buttons at Tender Buttons. Have enough cloth for a second suit. Bought extra for the uniqueness of the cloth.

Also have a donkey flannel chalk stripe. The look is very vintage. It's got a "dirty" look to the finish. That's the allure to my eye.

 

[wilcthree]

Some pictures of the 3 flannel suits that arrived yesterday (all Minnis flannel 400g).

All suits are made with regular shoulder and minimal padding nor wadding but with tons of iron work in the canvas to give them shape. In the past, some work from Mimmo Pirozzi showing the same construction were posted. I think it's what is called "spalla inselata".

I didn't order anything special. Apart from the regular shoulder I asked for jetted pockets and trousers with side adjusters and for braces with turn-ups. The rest was tailor's will.

Medium grey.

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Dark navy.

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RAF blue chalkstripe.

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Navy wool overcoat.

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Who's the maker of these items? They're done really well. Enjoy them in good health, my friend.

 

[classicalthunde]

Some pictures of the 3 flannel suits that arrived yesterday (all Minnis flannel 400g).

All suits are made with regular shoulder and minimal padding nor wadding but with tons of iron work in the canvas to give them shape. In the past, some work from Mimmo Pirozzi showing the same construction were posted. I think it's what is called "spalla inselata".

I didn't order anything special. Apart from the regular shoulder I asked for jetted pockets and trousers with side adjusters and for braces with turn-ups. The rest was tailor's will.

Medium grey.

View attachment 1690864 View attachment 1690865 View attachment 1690866 View attachment 1690867 View attachment 1690868 View attachment 1690869 View attachment 1690870 View attachment 1690871 View attachment 1690872 View attachment 1690873 View attachment 1690874

Dark navy.

View attachment 1690875 View attachment 1690876

RAF blue chalkstripe.

View attachment 1690877 View attachment 1690878

Navy wool overcoat.

View attachment 1690879 View attachment 1690880

View attachment 1690863

would love to know what books these fabric references are! Particularly the mid grey, dark navy, and the navy overcoat

 

[ericgereghty]

My second favorite flannel suit (the mid grey is first favorite) was a pale, muted celery green. So muted you can't tell the color at a glance, requires a closer look. Made it up as a DB. Found and used the perfect horn buttons at Tender Buttons. Have enough cloth for a second suit. Bought extra for the uniqueness of the cloth.

Also have a donkey flannel chalk stripe. The look is very vintage. It's got a "dirty" look to the finish. That's the allure to my eye.

How does that one resolve? I’m envisioning something like a grey tinted mint color?

 

[aristoi bcn]

Who's the maker of these items? They're done really well. Enjoy them in good health, my friend.

Thanks. Raffaele Iorio, a tailor from Naples.

would love to know what books these fabric references are! Particularly the mid grey, dark navy, and the navy overcoat

All from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds. The flannels are discontinued though.

 

[WhereNext]

Thanks. Raffaele Iorio, a tailor from Naples.



All from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds. The flannels are discontinued though.

That's a shame: that RAF blue chalk stripe is something I have been keeping an eye out for for recently. I have a few other suits lined up in the interim, but would you have the cloth code or specific book for it in case I can track it down (or I can use it as a reference when The Great Swatch Search kicks into overdrive down the road)?
Great suits!

 

[Camillo]

It's been some time - below a picture from the second fitting (have only one back photo). Will be ready soon.

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The jacket is ready. Took some photo, unfortunately of poor quality (I have the impression that the deteriorating quality of photos is progressing with each new android update):

Slightly extended shoulder whithout padding, higher placed pockets (done by my tailor) and finally this jacket is almost 3 cm longer than the previous one (all credit goes to @aristoi bcn who brought it to my attention - I like the current length much more ).

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Nice jacket! The best thing about your jacket is that now once Dawid finished it, he will be finally able to start making mine

 

[Camillo]

Nice jacket! The best thing about your jacket is that now once Dawid finished it, he will be finally able to start making mine

Hah, surprisingly I see other strengths of this jacket.

 

[JDMills]

Second fitting, excess canvas to be trimmed from shoulders and arm hole and the shoulders will be brought in a smidge

 

[Texasmade]

Second fitting, excess canvas to be trimmed from shoulders and arm hole and the shoulders will be brought in a smidge View attachment 1692361 View attachment 1692364

That's quite a bit of extended shoulder.

 

[JDMills]

That's quite a bit of extended shoulder.

There’s excess canvas puffing out the shoulder line at the moment, it’ll be much softer, but I am built like a brick shithouse with very wide square shoulders unfortunately.

 

[The Chai]

Quite a fan of the extended shoulder recently as can be seen in this sexton. Having a dj in the works with such a shoulder

 

[JDMills]

Quite a fan of the extended shoulder recently as can be seen in this sexton. Having a dj in the works with such a shoulder

It’s a good look, it helps that Sexton is slim and small so it gives a good V shape, Ralph Lauren when he wears a suit has the same extended shoulder love. I find the taller and broader you are the more you have to go with a natural shoulder or very lightly padded/wadded otherwise you look like you play for the Steelers ?

 

[ericgereghty]

Quite a fan of the extended shoulder recently as can be seen in this sexton. Having a dj in the works with such a shoulder

It's an awesome and distinct look that I would find utterly repulsive on me lol. I have no interest in looking like I'm suiting up for a football game.
If you've got the frame for it, however, it does look quite striking.