Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Marshak]

It's been some time - below a picture from the second fitting (have only one back photo). Will be ready soon.

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I just launched a jacket in the chocolate tone of this Moon's herringbone shetland.

 

[Marshak]

I've always wanted flannel, but have been hesitant with how warm it seems, and how it seems to become shapeless very easily. Not sure if these are true or not, but depends on the millling and weight I assume.

I laughed at the lawyer story, sounds like a good score man. If you ever post pics of you wearing these suits, definitely @ me.

Yeah my measurements are pretty dialed in with S&M for the time being.

As much as I want a flannel suit, it's pretty low on the priority and usability list for me right now. I'm that guy who keeps a word document of things I actually could use in my wardrobe, vs. the shiny things that may not get much use (like a flannel suit). I've had to learn this the hard way over the years.

I'll keep Dugdale and VBC flannels in mind though, thanks man. I bought a pair of VBC Covert Twill to replace a tight pair of pants and I really like the drape and hand feel of them.

I had have very bad experiences with lightweight flannels from VBC and Fox. Lightweight flannels are very fragile and don't hold their shape. Two bespoke trousers ripped after three - parsimonious - years of wear. I'll stick to Hardy Minnis heavier weight.

 

[Camillo]

I just launched a jacket in the chocolate tone of this Moon's herringbone shetland.

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Nice, I considered this option myself too but finally went for the tobbaco shade. It's always difficult for me to imagine what it will look like on the finished garment. Out of curiosity - why did you choose this particular shade?

 

[Marshak]

Nice, I considered this option myself too but finally went for the tobbaco shade. It's always difficult for me to imagine what it will look like on the finished garment. Out of curiosity - why did you choose this particular shade?

There is always a degree of uncertainty when you chose a sample. Depending on the depth of the fabric, and even with known plain color such as navy, the scale effect always plays when it becomes a full garment. I was looking specifically after a dark brown herringbone. I saw nice browns in the WBill lambswools but always too clear to my taste. How does the fabric behave, compared with an heavier tweed if you have one?

 

[FlyingHorker]

Saw your edit @stuffedsuperdud. Unfortunately my tailor doesn't carry the big names, but does accept outside fabrics. That's how my Bal worked out in the first place.

He only carries fabrics by "Empire", a Canadian brand.

I had have very bad experiences with lightweight flannels from VBC and Fox. Lightweight flannels are very fragile and don't hold their shape. Two bespoke trousers ripped after three - parsimonious - years of wear. I'll stick to Hardy Minnis heavier weight.

That's horrible, I'll definitely keep that in mind man. Sounds like it's go heavy or go home for flannels. 14 oz and up a good range?

 

[Marshak]

Saw your edit @stuffedsuperdud. Unfortunately my tailor doesn't carry the big names, but does accept outside fabrics. That's how my Bal worked out in the first place.

He only carries fabrics by "Empire", a Canadian brand.

That's horrible, I'll definitely keep that in mind man. Sounds like it's go heavy or go home for flannels. 14 oz and up a good range?

Indeed. 14oz for the Hardy Minnis. Personnally I don't run hot and could certainly bear more. These heavy flannels give an incredible feeling of warmness, comfort and drape to the wearer.

 

[edinatlanta]

Unfortunately my tailor doesn't carry the big names,

What is the reasoning?

 

[FlyingHorker]

What is the reasoning?

Good question, I never bothered asking.

I assume it may be an easier cloth supply deal or something as I'm in the middle of nowhere in Canada?

 

[Forwards]

I take a chance on this being the right thread.
Has anyone of you all, going to tailors all over the world, seen this fabric?

It is a Brioni jacket, made for a menswear store in Zug, Switzerland. The composition is half and half wool and silk.
The Brioni fabric code is 160/4151. I saw the jacket on eBay, but it was taken down before I got over my indecisiveness about fit and condition. Brioni has not replied to my question.

 

[reidd]

I take a chance on this being the right thread.
Has anyone of you all, going to tailors all over the world, seen this fabric?

View attachment 1673867

View attachment 1673868
It is a Brioni jacket, made for a menswear store in Zug, Switzerland. The composition is half and half wool and silk.
The Brioni fabric code is 160/4151. I saw the jacket on eBay, but it was taken down before I got over my indecisiveness about fit and condition. Brioni has not replied to my question.

Most of these big houses design and have cloth made specifically for them. So you are unlikely to find the exact cloth from any Brioni, Kiton etc jacket. I wish I could help you find something close to that jacket but that is really a unique looking cloth. I've never really seen anything like it.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

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I saw the jacket on eBay, but it was taken down before I got over my indecisiveness about fit and condition.

Consider yourself lucky my dear fellow!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

That's horrible, I'll definitely keep that in mind man. Sounds like it's go heavy or go home for flannels. 14 oz and up a good range?

Well, I wouldn't be so quick to write off everything under 14oz. The VBC ones are "only" 13oz, as are the ones in Fox's core book. I mean, functionally, the purpose of flannel is to stay warm on crisp cold days, so probably heavier is better, but if you're just in it for the interesting texture, there might be some 10-11oz worsted flannels that will hold up okay. Dugdale has a tough-wearing "travel flannel" that feels pretty good (for pants at least), and there's a less popular mill called Harrisons Burley (not to be confused by the 800lb gorilla of rag sellers) that makes a pretty unique lightweight worsted flannel that they list as around 12oz, which seems durable enough.

If you're ever on the fence, maybe start with a pair of trousers and see how you like it, then have the jacket made later. Worst case scenario you have a pair of gray flannel trousers, which is probably the most versatile item you can own, especially in this COVID-accelerated biz caj race to the bottom.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Well, I wouldn't be so quick to write off everything under 14oz. The VBC ones are "only" 13oz, as are the ones in Fox's core book. I mean, functionally, the purpose of flannel is to stay warm on crisp cold days, so probably heavier is better, but if you're just in it for the interesting texture, there might be some 10-11oz worsted flannels that will hold up okay. Dugdale has a tough-wearing "travel flannel" that feels pretty good (for pants at least), and there's a less popular mill called Harrisons Burley (not to be confused by the 800lb gorilla of rag sellers) that makes a pretty unique lightweight worsted flannel that they list as around 12oz, which seems durable enough.

If you're ever on the fence, maybe start with a pair of trousers and see how you like it, then have the jacket made later. Worst case scenario you have a pair of gray flannel trousers, which is probably the most versatile item you can own, especially in this COVID-accelerated biz caj race to the bottom.

I do have a pair of mid grey covert twill trousers, always wondered if gray flannels would have the same versatility. I know it's a menswear darling.

Noted on starting with trousers first though if I want a full suit.

 

[Forwards]

Consider yourself lucky my dear fellow!

Best,

Dimitris

Is that typical scammer behavior?

 

[reidd]

I do have a pair of mid grey covert twill trousers, always wondered if gray flannels would have the same versatility. I know it's a menswear darling.

Noted on starting with trousers first though if I want a full suit.

I have a mix of winter trousers in flannel, whipcord and covert. All pretty interchangeable in terms of wearability and formality. I like the subtle differences between them all. It's nice to have a variety IMO.