Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Zerase]

Drago wool silk linen
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Going to save this picture and wave in the face to anyone who says that patch pockets look bad on a double breasted jacket.

 

[bdavro23]

Going to save this picture and wave in the face to anyone who says that patch pockets look bad on a double breasted jacket.

That jacket would look better with a welted breast pocket...

 

[acapaca]

That jacket would look better with a welted breast pocket...

It looks a little low, or a bit exaggerated in height at least, right? Great looking jacket, though!

 

[The Chai]

Going to save this picture and wave in the face to anyone who says that patch pockets look bad on a double breasted jacket.

Personally I think only a 4x1 or 4x2 configuration looks good with a patch pockets. Coincidentally I also think thisconfigurstion is the only one which looks reasonably good worn unbuttoned

 

[yanagi]

My wedding suit arrived from Joseph Genuardi (thanks again to @Encathol Epistemia). On my monitor, it looks charcoal-ish; but it's actually blue/grey from the H&S City of London book.

Spoiler

 

[reidd]

My wedding suit arrived from Joseph Genuardi (thanks again to @Encathol Epistemia). On my monitor, it looks charcoal-ish; but it's actually blue/grey from the H&S City of London book.

Spoiler

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That looks really great.

 

[The Chai]

My wedding suit arrived from Joseph Genuardi (thanks again to @Encathol Epistemia). On my monitor, it looks charcoal-ish; but it's actually blue/grey from the H&S City of London book.

Spoiler

View attachment 1625394 View attachment 1625395

Big fan on the 1 button!

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

My wedding suit arrived from Joseph Genuardi (thanks again to @Encathol Epistemia). On my monitor, it looks charcoal-ish; but it's actually blue/grey from the H&S City of London book.

Spoiler

View attachment 1625394 View attachment 1625395

That's excellent! It looks very handsome and, especially with the welted pockets, has a very clean, distinguished silhouette. May the wedding be at least as successful as the tailoring.

I take some satisfaction in my promotion of Mr. Genuardi having led to somebody being satisfied with his work. It also probably does us all good to see his work wrapped around a less lumpy body than mine.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Picture dump coming.

Went to see Jonathan’s method of pattern making / cloth cutting this past week. For trousers he drafts & cuts a paper pattern first, unlike Salvo who uses a plotter to print a pattern. However, like Vittorio, he strikes the pattern directly on the cloth for the four jacket panels. He then either places the horsehair canvas directly underneath the marked cloth, or takes the two front panels and uses them to cut the canvas.

Cutting the cloth after striking the pattern (note the chalk marks)

One of the front panels

Using the front panel to cut the canvas

Dat lapel roll doh

Later in the week, I went to try on the shell. It’s not really necessary, as these things can be addressed at the first fitting, but since I work two blocks away, I went there for ten minutes to take pics, and nailed down lapel shape/gorge height (I spread to have the gorge lowered by 1cm).

More importantly he took the opportunity to ensure armhole placement and how the back fits. Since I have pronounced traps, round delts, and rotated-forward shoulders, this affects armhole placement. Someone like me has them lower than someone who has more squared-off shoulders. A broad back can also create horizontal folds and feel uncomfortable if there’s not enough fabric, so they addressed this as well. I was able to move my arms freely and when the time comes to hug people, I’ll have no problem.

Lapel gorge will be lowered 1cm

Back sits comfortably and collar hugs my neck

 

[blacktaro]

Hey guys, so I have consigned few pieces since the last I asked for your advise on my navy suit. Thing turned out well so far, except the quality of the fabric available here in VN is still sort of lacking (quality fabrics are much more expensive here due to import tax) so I have decided to order the fabric abroad myself to cut down on this cost.

My current project is a 6x2 (convertible to 6x1) double breasted jacket in navy Scabal fabric. With this jacket, I’d like to use brass buttons. Because the fabric has a little sheen on which I did not realize when ordering, my original plan to use matte beige horn buttons do not works. On the other hand, quality brass buttons not available here in VN so I will need to order them from abroad as well.

My question is, what size of brass buttons should I get for this jacket (both sleeve and front)? Is there any rule that I should follow on choosing buttons size? I have approx 44 inch chest and 19 inch shoulder across if body size matters. Also, beside brass, what other type of buttons would you recommend on this type of fabric?

Appreciate your kind advise.

 

[acapaca]

Hey guys, so I have consigned few pieces since the last I asked for your advise on my navy suit. Thing turned out well so far, except the quality of the fabric available here in VN is still sort of lacking (quality fabrics are much more expensive here due to import tax) so I have decided to order the fabric abroad myself to cut down on this cost.

My current project is a 6x2 (convertible to 6x1) double breasted jacket in navy Scabal fabric. With this jacket, I’d like to use brass buttons. Because the fabric has a little sheen on which I did not realize when ordering, my original plan to use matte beige horn buttons do not works. On the other hand, quality brass buttons not available here in VN so I will need to order them from abroad as well.

My question is, what size of brass buttons should I get for this jacket (both sleeve and front)? Is there any rule that I should follow on choosing buttons size? I have approx 44 inch chest and 19 inch shoulder across if body size matters. Also, beside brass, what other type of buttons would you recommend on this type of fabric?

Appreciate your kind advise.

I can't help with those questions, I'm afraid, but I wondered if you have some tailor recommendations in VN you could share? Also curious where you're sourcing your fabric from, and if you've been able to get it into VN without getting hit hard by duties. (I've paid 60% on shoes!)

Edit: Whoops, I know you've answered this before for me! Sorry for the repeat question. But if you've come across any updates in the past few months, I'd love to hear about it. I've had some nice success recently with Hanoi Peak Bespoke, and I've got another couple new ones to try soon...

 

[usctrojans31]

Scabal itself makes some nice brass buttons. Recommend checking it out.

 

[blacktaro]

I can't help with those questions, I'm afraid, but I wondered if you have some tailor recommendations in VN you could share? Also curious where you're sourcing your fabric from, and if you've been able to get it into VN without getting hit hard by duties. (I've paid 60% on shoes!)

Edit: Whoops, I know you've answered this before for me! Sorry for the repeat question. But if you've come across any updates in the past few months, I'd love to hear about it. I've had some nice success recently with Hanoi Peak Bespoke, and I've got another couple new ones to try soon...

Hi it has been Hanoi Peak Bespoke for me as well. Phuong - the owner is a very nice guy who is quite passionated in tailoring. I always stay there couple hours just to chat with him about construction or any interesting project he is working on. Actually all of my friends who was referred to Phuong have been coming back to him with new orders.

Another guy that I’d like to try is Long tailor, waiting for my next batch of fabric to arrive to test him out.

For shipping, pls ping my inbox.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Many blazer/sport coat buttons are 22mm (7/8”, or 36 ligne in button-talk) but you can always go larger or smaller.

 

[dieworkwear]

FWIW, Waterbury makes some nice brass buttons associated with various schools, sports, and professions.

Made in Connecticut - The Connecticut Store - The Connecticut Store

Benson & Clegg, Ben Silver, and Anglo Italian also sell them.