Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[BPL Esq]

I finalized my jacket pattern last week. So, today, I started my next project that I’ve been excited about for several months.

I should have it all basted together tomorrow and ready for its first fitting.

Both fabrics are 3-ply Huddersfield Fresco.

Pattern (sleeve is obviously not assembled in the picture. I pinned it to nail the pitch and assembled it after I took the picture.):

I'm ashamed to say that I had a momentary brain failure and didn't think about the fact that the photo was taken in a mirror. For a moment I thought you had the jacket buttoning on the wrong side. I didn't get a lot of sleep last night.

 

[Alan Bee]

 

[lordsuperb]

The Master & The Professor Show ...

We’re almost there boys. Just need to clean up the sleeves and put on the collar ...

Now up on The Tube (YouTube) at Bespoke Channel

Alan Bee
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The jacket is longer than I prefer but I know you are designing a period piece. What’s the cloth you’re using for the trousers?

 

[Alan Bee]

The jacket is longer than I prefer but I know you are designing a period piece. What’s the cloth you’re using for the trousers?

The Supreme Lord ...

I did actually put a lot of thought into the coat design and length. For those, you definitely need the length in the coat to balance out the full trousers.

The gray flannel trousers in the video is cut from FOX FLANNEL ...I have made those trousers in every possible cloth from summer to fall/winter.

Alan Bee

 

[induere_to]

I spent yesterday morning padding the lapels and basting the jacket together. You can slowly begin to slowly see the idea of its design now with the pockets complete.

Today was a short 2-hour day, I basted the lapel edges so I can get an idea on width. I also basted on the sleeve:

I also apologize for the constant battle to take pictures indoors with a lack of proper lighting.

 

[ericgereghty]

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AB, where is the back rise in relation to the front? From the side, it almost looks as though the front rise is cut higher than the back?
That said, although the leg is too aggressive for me, give me all the high rise trouser pawrn.

 

[Alan Bee]

AB, where is the back rise in relation to the front? From the side, it almost looks as though the front rise is cut higher than the back?
That said, although the leg is too aggressive for me, give me all the high rise trouser pawrn.

Eric,

Of course the back rise is higher than the front rise. However I designed the trousers such that the waistband at the sides are "scooped" like a "U" for comfort. The front rise is higher than the sides then scoops back up to the top of the fish-tail in the back.

Yes, those Cavalry Twills are 10" bottoms. I like the way they sway when you move ...

Alan Bee

 

[Marshak]

Incoming from Naples. WBill linen in a light sand shade. Sleeves will be added. And yes it'll be a full suit.

 

[Marshak]

The suit is finished. Antonio did a great job as usual.

 

[willyto]

The Supreme Lord ...

I did actually put a lot of thought into the coat design and length. For those FULL CUT trousers, you definitely need the length in the coat to balance out the full trousers.

The gray flannel trousers in the video is cut from FOX FLANNEL ...I have made those trousers in every possible cloth from summer to fall/winter.

Alan Bee

Interesting that you mention that. During the 30s there were also bum freezers coats worn with wide leg trousers.

It's good to see that someone likes that era too but made today.

 

[Despos]

like the “bum freezer” with wide leg better.

 

[induere_to]

With my latest project awaiting its final touches (arriving by mail), I decided to start a new one that I was hoping to have started last Autumn. However, now that I have this apprenticeship, I can work on it myself and not bother my tailor with the minute details. Unfortunately, it may be a while before I can wear it.

Fabric is a Tuscan Casentino from T.A.C.S.. It’s styling will be a cross-breed between a balmacaan and a polo coat. Raglan sleeves, half-belted back, traditional polo pockets at the hip and a fat collar.

Only had time to pad one lapel today:

Still have yet to turn the hem up those 2” but I wanted to make sure I could get it below the knees. The back is supposed to potentially be 58” in length, pictured is 60”.

Still deciding on what I want to line it with... the Tuscan traditional tartan, perhaps?

 

[othertravel]

@induere_to

You’re a credit to this thread!

 

[Aloysius16]

like the “bum freezer” with wide leg better.

i was watching a couple of films of 30s and 40s London yesterday. What struck me about the suiting styles of the population was very full cut trousers but jackets slightly short.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

With my latest project awaiting its final touches (arriving by mail), I decided to start a new one that I was hoping to have started last Autumn. However, now that I have this apprenticeship, I can work on it myself and not bother my tailor with the minute details. Unfortunately, it may be a while before I can wear it.

Fabric is a Tuscan Casentino from T.A.C.S.. It’s styling will be a cross-breed between a balmacaan and a polo coat. Raglan sleeves, half-belted back, traditional polo pockets at the hip and a fat collar.

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Only had time to pad one lapel today:

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Still have yet to turn the hem up those 2” but I wanted to make sure I could get it below the knees. The back is supposed to potentially be 58” in length, pictured is 60”.

Still deciding on what I want to line it with... the Tuscan traditional tartan, perhaps?

Has to be tartan. Why stop now