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ChasingStyle

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Not aware of what the rules are or if there are rules. Spent time with two tailors recently talking about pattern drafting. Each of us had a different method of determining the lower pockets and the breast pocket placement.

That makes sense of course - I was reacting to your previous comment on "over the hip" positioning.
The discussion I was having with my tailor was around this precisely - how his pattern approach places the pockets higher and further away from the center, whereas my Italian jackets have them lower and closer to the center. I much prefer the latter, as I like standing or walking with my hands in my pockets, and this positioning is much more natural and comfortable. With my English jackets, I feel my hands are a bit too high, and my elbows pushed further back in a less natural and more uncomfortable position.

These days I don't see as many Italian tailors place them as low as they used to. Never liked that or high gorges.

Both Antonio Panico as well as Gigi Dalcuore (RIP) still follow this pocket placement - at least in the jackets they made for me. I can try to post pictures. Crimi (from Palermo) less so, the placement is somewhere in between the English and the Neapolitan.
 

konstantis

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Jacket and Ulster coat in process.
 

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Bespoke DJP

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@konstantis

Konstanti, I am glad my friend that you finally did it!

Alas, I have couple of semi-finished projects in my tailor's atelier..., for some months now.

We need to see more pictures!

Take care,

Dimitris
 

konstantis

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@konstantis

Konstanti, I am glad my friend that you finally did it!

Alas, I have couple of semi-finished projects in my tailor's atelier..., for some months now.

We need to see more pictures!

Take care,

Dimitris
Hi Dimitri ,

Thank you for your kind worlds . These photos was from my last fitting , after 4 months due to the Covid-19. I really like how both garments are coming on . I will keep you posted . Keep safe.
 

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