Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[mockingboy]

During the pandemic I’ve bought

1. Sport coats and trousers from Chris Despos

2. A lot of shirts from Geneva

3. A suit from Oxxford at their Chicago factory

I’m planning a few more too!

I definitely rarely wear tailoring during Pandemic but post pandemic I will be moving back to the other side of dressing.

Even now when I go out I’m getting more dressed up than I otherwise would even to go to Home Depot or whatever.

I’m excited to wear sport coats and trousers again to do anything!

 

[bdavro23]

It isnt bespoke, and no one really asked, but I thought I'd give my thoughts from a MTM operator's perspective. For context, things were going really well for me in early 2020 and I had finished 2019 really strong. The first two months of 2020 were my best ever and the two verticals I focus on, banking and law, were providing me with a lot of opportunity. I should mention that I try to focus on "enthusiasts" within these groups as they tend to be the most consistent customers, but also the most fun to work with. I absolutely loathe wedding suits, as they are typically one and done customers who are often much more work and hassle than they are worth. We took Covid very seriously, so I took on only a few new clients after February, and they were entirely remote.

Vaccines are rolling out and there seems to be light at the end of the tunnel, but I do wonder how much the pandemic and the WFH experience will have changed the market place. I, like a lot of people, am looking forward to wearing a jacket or suit and taking my wife to dinner or a show. I also know a lot of people for whom there is no return from sweatpants and athleisure wear. I expect that there will be an increase in orders in the short term once appointments open up again, though much of that will be the wedding hordes trying to match buttonhole thread to the bridesmaid dresses, but after that its unknown. I think this fall will be the determining period for me as thats traditionally my busiest time. I'm sure I will still be making things for some of my current customers, but I do wonder sometimes where the new customers who are just dipping a toe into the custom/ bespoke market are going to come from and how much the pandemic will have culled those ranks.

I expect that I will make far fewer business suits, and the focus will be more on jackets and trousers. I have made a fair number of more casual trousers like "5 pockets" and the like. My crystal ball says that those commissions will also skew less traditional and more "fun", but I could be wrong about that. I personally am sitting on a bunch of cloth and a dozen shirt lengths for myself that I want to get made up. Much of it is casual suits and soft jackets. We'll see how far I get into that list.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Third fitting. As the weather is quite nice we also managed to take a few better quality photos outside. On some occasions a small collar gap appears (can be seen on last photo), Dawid will be correcting this before final delivery. Apart from that I’m quite happy with the results so far.

 

[reidd]

I'm curious to hear from people:

1. Roughly speaking, what were your bespoke plans just before the pandemic?

2. If trunk shows resume later this year, do you plan to continue with the same orders, increase your orders, or decrease your orders? Meaning placing new deposits, not counting orders you've already paid deposits on and are currently put on hold.

I'm curious to know if the "enthusiast market" has changed for this trade.

Before pandemic, I was getting about 2 pieces per season, or about 4 pieces per year. Mostly jackets and odds trousers as this is what I wear to work every day. During pandemic, I did a remote commission for MTM from my primary bespoke tailor based in Italy. These came out so well, that I decided to try a jacket last fall and it is similarly excellent. I think compared to the garments I have had fittings with, they are only very marginally inferior in terms of fit but its really splitting hairs.

With that said, I do really miss trunk shows and the interactions with the tailors. I absolutely plan on booking a fitting as soon as I get the opportunity.

I don't really foresee my dressing habits changing much as a result of the pandemic.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Good luck with the gap. That's an issue that has plagued one of my tailors. I wonder if it's because this guy's not used to doing such a serious saddle shoulder? Good on you to just go for it and do the saddle with a roped sleevehead. Too many Neapolitan ? silhouettes these days.

Spoiler

Third fitting. As the weather is quite nice we also managed to take a few better quality photos outside. On some occasions a small collar gap appears (can be seen on last photo), Dawid will be correcting this before final delivery. Apart from that I’m quite happy with the results so far.

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[FlyingHorker]

@Wild Strawberry Rabbit Thoughts on wider trousers in the future?

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Good luck with the gap. That's an issue that has plagued one of my tailors. I wonder if it's because this guy's not used to doing such a serious saddle shoulder? Good on you to just go for it and do the saddle with a roped sleevehead. Too many Neapolitan ? silhouettes these days.

Honestly, I have no idea why this collar gap appeared, it did not happen in my previous commissions. I have absolutely zero knowledge regarding tailoring, construction of suits etc. so just can’t tell why. I just trust that the tailor will fix it. Will see soon, planned delivery is for next week.

@Wild Strawberry Rabbit Thoughts on wider trousers in the future?

I am not sure if I understand the question correctly. Do you think that I should have wider trousers? I am relatively small guy (178cm, shoe size 7UK). My trousers have around 20-20.5 cm (around 8 inches) leg opening. While it may be considered slim by SF standards, I think it’s already quite wide. I don’t think I would feel good in wider trousers.

 

[Zerase]

Honestly, I have no idea why this collar gap appeared, it did not happen in my previous commissions. I have absolutely zero knowledge regarding tailoring, construction of suits etc. so just can’t tell why. I just trust that the tailor will fix it. Will see soon, planned delivery is for next week.

I am not sure if I understand the question correctly. Do you think that I should have wider trousers? I am relatively small guy (178cm, shoe size 7UK). My trousers have around 20-20.5 cm (around 8 inches) leg opening. While it may be considered slim by SF standards, I think it’s already quite wide. I don’t think I would feel good in wider trousers.

Im pretty much the same size as you. I urge you to at least try it. My favorite trousers are a pair of flannels from De Petrillo with a leg opening of 25 cm. Looks absolutely smashing

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Im pretty much the same size as you. I urge you to at least try it. My favorite trousers are a pair of flannels from De Petrillo with a leg opening of 25 cm. Looks absolutely smashing

I tried wider trousers in the past. Did not feel well in them, felt like wearing historical reconstruction clothes. Maybe I’ll try again at some point in the future...

 

[FlyingHorker]

I am not sure if I understand the question correctly. Do you think that I should have wider trousers? I am relatively small guy (178cm, shoe size 7UK). My trousers have around 20-20.5 cm (around 8 inches) leg opening. While it may be considered slim by SF standards, I think it’s already quite wide. I don’t think I would feel good in wider trousers.

Worth trying IMO. I am surprised they're an 8" hem, I thought it was more like 7.5".

My trousers are the same hem size, but I think may have much roomier thighs.

I tried wider trousers in the past. Did not feel well in them, felt like wearing historical reconstruction clothes. Maybe I’ll try again at some point in the future...

...Then that's that! If you already tried them and did not like them, no use forcing yourself.

 

[corpseposeur]

I tried wider trousers in the past. Did not feel well in them, felt like wearing historical reconstruction clothes. Maybe I’ll try again at some point in the future...

I agree with this sentiment. I think tailored clothing should accentuate physical features. For me, I think a comfortable but well tapered leg makes me feel taller and slimmer. My measures are currently between 16 1/2 and 17 inches hem circumference at 5ft. 9in. with a US10 shoe. Anything outside if that range feels a bit too period or fashion-led.

 

[shirtsnob]

I tried wider trousers in the past. Did not feel well in them, felt like wearing historical reconstruction clothes. Maybe I’ll try again at some point in the future...

pants look perfect..........perfect.

 

[ruvort]

pants look perfect..........perfect.

I think they look too narrow compared to the silhouette of the jacket. To my eye, fuller trousers would balance out the look.

 

[papado]

I think if you were to make any change maybe the thigh could be like .5" fuller total and I'd actually opt for slightly less break given that they are a decently slim trouser. If it were me I'd throw on a nice cuff and take it up a little so that you don't get as odd a break across the lower calf and they'd be perfect!

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Received my suit from Dawid today. Unfortunately I’m in quarantine, so can’t go outside and make full body pictures. Took a few pictures inside with camera’s remote control.