Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[dieworkwear]

I note that the video was filmed before COVID-19, and hope that he, and his sartoria, are surviving as best they can. I'm an existing customer and sent him a message late last year but never received a reply (which is unusual for Ueki san).

?

I've touched base with some tailors and the stories are all bad. Very hard time for people in this trade. I don't know Ueki, but I hope he's OK.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Project is now finished. Shortened the sleeves, length of coat, added throat latch.

I'll probably wear the belt loose, tying it is kind of a pain **********.

 

[Despos]

Practice tying the belt until it’s easy.
Think this would look more dynamic and have more visual impact when belted.
Take another pic belted

 

[IJReilly]

I always preferred tying the belt in the back, in order to get a little shape. Then you can just let it stay there and never touch it again.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Practice tying the belt until it’s easy.
Think this would look more dynamic and have more visual impact when belted.
Take another pic belted

Woops, I should elaborate.

It's a pain due to the silhouette it eventually creates. These are old pictures pre-alteration.

I had to smooth out the fabric on the front, creating the pleats on the back. Otherwise in any normal movement the pleats shift to the front by the belt, it looks messy.

Spoiler: What I think I look like

This is a new set of pictures showing the sloppy look.

Spoiler: What I actually look like

I always preferred tying the belt in the back, in order to get a little shape. Then you can just let it stay there and never touch it again.

Yeah I was thinking of giving this a try. Will give it a shot next winter and see how it feels.

 

[corpseposeur]

I have two bespoke projects, my first ones, in limbo due to COVID.

I am in New York. My tailors are in London and a global pandemic has delayed these. After numerous last-minute suit purchases for weddings and "grown-up" occasions, and some MTM disasters from local NYC brands, I binged Permanent Style for a month and made two orders with two tailors on their trips to NYC.

Suit #1 is a two-piece suit cut by the pleasant Terry Haste of Kent & Haste (or Kent, Haste & Lachter) in a navy wool twill from Huddersfield Fine Worsted.
Single-breasted, single button, with slanted pockets. Measured by Terry in December 2019.
The idea was that this would be my one suit that I would wear to whatever occasion.

Shortly after this, my brother-in-law was planning to get married in New York in June 2020 and I found myself needing a good suit faster than what K&H could do and in a fabric that I could wear in the humid and miserable NYC summer. This lead to...

Suit #2, a two-piece suit from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury measured by Suresh and Bob in NYC on their trip in a 10oz. charcoal Fox Air hi-twist fabric with a subtle windowpane. Single-button, I think I got slanted pockets--but as this was ordered in January 2020, I am not entirely sure.

Anyway, it's March 2021 and I haven't been able to do a basted fitting yet for either due to the ongoing plague. Ironically, my brother-in-law's wedding has been postponed indefinitely and I have made plans to get married myself in May 2020. I'd love to get my KHL navy before then, but who knows where things will fall.

I'd love to hear if anyone here has expereinces with these two houses and what I may be able to expect for fittings. Any questions I should ask? Anything to look out for? I went with KHL and W&S mostly because of Simon Crompton's pieces, but would love to hear other thoughts.

 

[brax]

I have two bespoke projects, my first ones, in limbo due to COVID.

I am in New York. My tailors are in London and a global pandemic has delayed these. After numerous last-minute suit purchases for weddings and "grown-up" occasions, and some MTM disasters from local NYC brands, I binged Permanent Style for a month and made two orders with two tailors on their trips to NYC.

Suit #1 is a two-piece suit cut by the pleasant Terry Haste of Kent & Haste (or Kent, Haste & Lachter) in a navy wool twill from Huddersfield Fine Worsted.
Single-breasted, single button, with slanted pockets. Measured by Terry in December 2019.
The idea was that this would be my one suit that I would wear to whatever occasion.

Shortly after this, my brother-in-law was planning to get married in New York in June 2020 and I found myself needing a good suit faster than what K&H could do and in a fabric that I could wear in the humid and miserable NYC summer. This lead to...

Suit #2, a two-piece suit from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury measured by Suresh and Bob in NYC on their trip in a 10oz. charcoal Fox Air hi-twist fabric with a subtle windowpane. Single-button, I think I got slanted pockets--but as this was ordered in January 2020, I am not entirely sure.

Anyway, it's March 2021 and I haven't been able to do a basted fitting yet for either due to the ongoing plague. Ironically, my brother-in-law's wedding has been postponed indefinitely and I have made plans to get married myself in May 2020. I'd love to get my KHL navy before then, but who knows where things will fall.

I'd love to hear if anyone here has expereinces with these two houses and what I may be able to expect for fittings. Any questions I should ask? Anything to look out for? I went with KHL and W&S mostly because of Simon Crompton's pieces, but would love to hear other thoughts.

Good luck on your commissions. I am not familiar with either tailoring house.

As others have mentioned in different contexts, I’d skip the hacking pockets. They are certainly too informal for your blue suit. Regardless, good luck.

 

[brax]

While I’ll still be months away from wearing it, this jacket (with sleeves) made from Murray’s Nantucket Red is making its trip across the Atlantic To me.

 

[corpseposeur]

Good luck on your commissions. I am not familiar with either tailoring house.

As others have mentioned in different contexts, I’d skip the hacking pockets. They are certainly too informal for your blue suit. Regardless, good luck.

I think I agree with you on the pockets. At the time, I wanted a very British, structured cut and hacking pockets were a bit of an affect. I also think Kent, Haste and Lachter’s house style lends itself well to slanted pockets.

I know that KHL have done the basted garment already. If they haven’t done up the pockets I’ll ask if I can switch to straight or jetted pockets. If not, I’ll live with it. As I live in the United States. I don’t think 99% of my peers will either notice or think it less formal.

 

[bourbonbasted]

While I’ll still be months away from wearing it, this jacket (with sleeves) made from Murray’s Nantucket Red is making its trip across the Atlantic To me.

Spoiler

View attachment 1569071

This is absolutely next-level WASP ****. I love it.

 

[Crispyj]

Not really a bespoke order but it's from Panico.
I'm not really fond of belts because I think they are a hassle.
Tied it around the back to get some shape in the waist.

 

[DaAlSh]

I think I agree with you on the pockets. At the time, I wanted a very British, structured cut and hacking pockets were a bit of an affect. I also think Kent, Haste and Lachter’s house style lends itself well to slanted pockets.

I almost replied earlier as KH&L are my tailors, both for suits and sports coats/odd trousers (and some shirts from Stephen). I started off with suits with standard straight flapped pockets, but angled for sports coats, but my last suit has quite marked hacking pockets and looks the better for it (I think!). And I work in a very conservative profession (law) in the City (of London) and it's certainly considered appropriate here.

As to what you can expect - a nicely tailored, fitting suit, well-executed, from a friendly firm that offers outstanding value for money considering the prices they charge and the quality of the garment received - with the proviso that I don't like drape and always have fairly fitted jackets so I can't comment if you move away markedly from the 'house' style. But if you appreciate the Huntsman look (as was) then don't be fooled by another house that claims to be their spiritual heir - this is the real deal.

DavidS

 

[corpseposeur]

I almost replied earlier as KH&L are my tailors, both for suits and sports coats/odd trousers (and some shirts from Stephen). I started off with suits with standard straight flapped pockets, but angled for sports coats, but my last suit has quite marked hacking pockets and looks the better for it (I think!). And I work in a very conservative profession (law) in the City (of London) and it's certainly considered appropriate here.

As to what you can expect - a nicely tailored, fitting suit, well-executed, from a friendly firm that offers outstanding value for money considering the prices they charge and the quality of the garment received - with the proviso that I don't like drape and always have fairly fitted jackets so I can't comment if you move away markedly from the 'house' style. But if you appreciate the Huntsman look (as was) then don't be fooled by another house that claims to be their spiritual heir - this is the real deal.

DavidS

Thank you so much for this insight! Your first hand experience is very helpful.

Most likely the pockets will be fine either way. I prefer a structured suit with straight shoulders. slanted pockets are a bit easier to access. I'm a creative professional so I can pretty much get away with anything for business, but for formal events like weddings. Another reason I like the one-button look is the practicality of it; if you're only supposed to button one button, why have two buttons? I like clothing to be easy. It looks a bit different but it's still rooted in tradition and wouldn't look out of place.

KH&L have inspired a lot of confidence based on both John and Terry's credentials and their friendly demeanor. I remember they immediately understood what I was going for--I think they sensed that I was a bit new to bespoke but I wanted a hard wearing British fabric that was versatile and Terry immediately pulled out the Huddersfield bunch and found me a perfect Navy twill. It's slightly brighter than a typical navy, 13oz, so a perfect weight, and slight bit a of sheen. Their pricing is great--it's still a substantial amount for me, but I don't think I could get much better for my needs.

I'm really looking forward to getting the basted fitting done!

 

[corpseposeur]

Not really a bespoke order but it's from Panico.
I'm not really fond of belts because I think they are a hassle.
Tied it around the back to get some shape in the waist.

View attachment 1569962 View attachment 1569963 View attachment 1569964

This is great--so it's not bespoke? Is this raincoat a RTW or something? (crosses fingers)

 

[Crispyj]

This is great--so it's not bespoke? Is this raincoat a RTW or something? (crosses fingers)

Yes it's RTW/MTO from a Korean menswear store. Just fyi it is not a rain coat because it's not waterproof ?
Description is trench coat.