Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[dieworkwear]

Terrible news.

 

[kolecho]

May he RIP.

 

[VRaivio]

jiredell: that's a good-looking suit. The 1-button peak is such a rare sight these days that you're likely to catch an eyeball or two.

 

[usctrojans31]

After logging on for the first time in more than a year, it was very interesting to catch up with this thread. Terrific to see some of the great commissions and relationships being expanded.

Sad to see many of the tailoring houses struggling during this period. Absolutely tragic about Gigi's passing.

Looking forward to seeing many of the continued pieces come to life.

 

[Texasmade]

After logging on for the first time in more than a year, it was very interesting to catch up with this thread. Terrific to see some of the great commissions and relationships being expanded.

Why the long absence?

 

[usctrojans31]

Why the long absence?

I was really busy / traveling for a few weeks pre-pandemic and then just found myself less interested in all matters sartorial

 

[Texasmade]

I was really busy / traveling for a few weeks pre-pandemic and then just found myself less interested in all matters sartorial

That's why I spend most of my time in the CEsspool here. Way more interesting seeing people argue over politics instead of buttoning or unbuttoning a jacket.

 

[brax]

Just got a jacket that was stuck in Ohio for the past 2 weeks. My tailor surprised me by making all the buttonholes Milanese buttonholes ?
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I like it but if it was stuck in Ohio for two weeks, I’d have it fumigated and cleaned. Twice.

 

[brax]

On a Naples cutting board getting ready for summer.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

@backtaro I like to get the hacking pockets, with a slight angle, as I think it's a subtle little touch that makes the jacket a bit more rakish for folks in the know, while business colleagues won't even notice. It also makes the pockets easier to reach into. The ticket pocket I never really liked as it throws off the jacket's symmetry, plus can mess up the proportions of the jacket if the tailor puts it too high or too low, but that's just my preference. Don't get the contrast buttonholes; it's a gaudy little obscenity that takes away from the elegant minimalism of a well-fitting blue suit. My physique, or width at least, seems similar to the #s you posted (but in your profile it says you wear a 40? I wear a 44-46). If we are indeed similar, then I used to get 3.5" lapels but recently got one with 4" and found it looks more proportional to my eye.

Glad to hear your experience with VN tailoring, which have improved a lot in term of quality and style for the last decade. I hope my home country could one day stop being remarked as place to consign fast, cheap, fused, inferior quality suit.

My tailor here in Boston is an old school guy from Saigon who trained the classic way, apprenticing when he was 12 to a Parisian-trained master and later travelling the country mastering all the different aspects of production, working everywhere from little bespoke shops to large manufacturing facilities run by guys who trained in high end RTW factories like Brioni's. Altogether he was a student for about 15 years before opening his own shop. I was apprehensive at first, as he sucks at marketing and at first glance you would not guess his incredible skill set, but all of my initial nervousness went away after he altered the first suit I showed him, and now I take great joy in wearing the beautiful (and very fairly priced) clothes he has made me over the past few years; the quality of his work is right up there with that of any of the IG-famous tailors and cutters we ogle all day.

NB: He's pretty modest too. Looking at the buttonholes on an RLPL jacket, he goes, "Huh! These all by hand!" Takes a closer look and goes, "Augh! [gestures at a bespoke jacket he made] This I make. All by hand. But theirs better. They do better than me! I so stupid hahahaha." You gotta love this guy.

On quality of work in VN, he argued that the problem until relatively recently wasn't that the craftsmen can't make nice things but that even the country's richer folks couldn't afford their best efforts, so the result was something they knew wasn't their best work. Looks like the demand for the good stuff is rising now though which I hope will be good for the local tailors to showcase their abilities.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Second fitting.

 

[Texasmade]

Second fitting.

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Do you cover your face to hide your identity or to emphasize the suit? If it's the former, I don't think it really matters since you have a link to your instagram.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Do you cover your face to hide your identity or to emphasize the suit? If it's the former, I don't think it really matters since you have a link to your instagram.

I guess it’s easier for me to make my IG account private if I ever wish to, than to remove all the photos from the forum, hence keeping face covered on the forum, just in case

 

[dieworkwear]

dont know if this belongs here, but came across a nice video on ciccio

 

[krakatoa]

dont know if this belongs here, but came across a nice video on ciccio

I note that the video was filmed before COVID-19, and hope that he, and his sartoria, are surviving as best they can. I'm an existing customer and sent him a message late last year but never received a reply (which is unusual for Ueki san).