Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Marshak]

New jacket - Caccioppoli with Rampley and Co inside. Built to strike fear in Huguenots. View attachment 1541126 View attachment 1541127

Superhero lining. Bravi.

 

[classicalthunde]

Superhero lining. Bravi.

@ValidusLA how do these wear compared to the standard bemberg/cupro linings?

 

[ValidusLA]

@ValidusLA how do these wear compared to the standard bemberg/cupro linings?

Mmm ok so... silk doesn't wear as nice as cupro. This is sorta just....the way it is.
But there are degrees of silk. My tailor actually owns a somewhat recently acquired silk importer / printer. He has been extremely complimentary of the Rampley and Co silk quality. It is nicely light for how durable it is etc.

I don't generally put these in anything under 10-10.5 oz. I certainly would go for cupro (or half lined) on any traveler or hot weather jacket.

 

[coolpapa]

I find silk to be hotter than cupro and I don't like it.

 

[ValidusLA]

I find silk to be hotter than cupro and I don't like it.

I think this is what I alluded to in the post above, isn't it?

If you are concerned with comfort above all other concerns, silk is not the way to go.

 

[coolpapa]

Yep, I was agreeing with you.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I just saw John Di Pietro this afternoon for a basted fitting. (He normally isn't in the shop on Tuesdays during the plague, but he was in the neighborhood for a dentist's appointment)

It will be a single-breasted, two-button ventless jacket with cloverleaf lapels in a wool and cashmere Zegna fabric that I had been noticing on his shelves almost since I started visiting him.

This is the jacket in its basted state. Mr. Di Pietro tells me that he had to use a flashlight for the pattern matching. (N.b. It's currently mocked up with side and center vents as I was originally unsure as to what I wanted, but those will all be sewn closed)

As a testament to what lighting can do, this is what the flash on my camera did to the cloth when I took this close-in picture of the arm. It's rather washed out, but shows the colors of the plaid a little better.

The jacket will also have a barchetta pocket, cuffs and mother-of-pearl buttons; it's not going to be a subtle garment.

I had also hoped to have crescent pockets like these by Dege & Skinner, but after having examined the pictures and consulted with several colleagues, Mr. Di Pietro couldn't figure how to do it out. The shape of the flap is no trouble, but he couldn't determine how the jet along the top was constructed. Instead it will have hacking pockets with flaps that curve at the front.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

First fitting.

 

[Psyko]

So wanted to share my experience with Sartoria Pastena Elegance. The commission was organized remotely. First off, Antonio is super accessable on WhatsApp and answers all the questions one might have. He is extremely service minded and pleasant to communicate with.

As for the jacket, I'm happy with it for a first commission. There is some rumpling on both sleeves and a bit tight around the armholes.

I asked for an extended shoulder and longer length than I've had previously. I might reduce the shoulder seam and back length for the next commission, as the spalla camicia-shoulder might not hold an extended shoulder as well as other shoulder constructions. The length is also the longest I've had a jacket made up in and I might reduce it 1 to 1.5 cm for the next jacket. I appreciate some input on these points, though.

As for adjustments on this current jacket, I will lengthen the sleeves and take in the lower back to give it some more shape.

All in all, I fully recommend Pastena Elegance.

 

[lordsuperb]

So wanted to share my experience with Sartoria Pastena Elegance. The commission was organized remotely. First off, Antonio is super accessable on WhatsApp and answers all the questions one might have. He is extremely service minded and pleasant to communicate with.

As for the jacket, I'm happy with it for a first commission. There is some rumpling on both sleeves and a bit tight around the armholes.

I asked for an extended shoulder and longer length than I've had previously. I might reduce the shoulder seam and back length for the next commission, as the spalla camicia-shoulder might not hold an extended shoulder as well as other shoulder constructions. The length is also the longest I've had a jacket made up in and I might reduce it 1 to 1.5 cm for the next jacket. I appreciate some input on these points, though.

As for adjustments on this current jacket, I will lengthen the sleeves and take in the lower back to give it some more shape.

All in all, I fully recommend Pastena Elegance.

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If you're going to stick with the length I would add more drape to the chest and ask for less waist suppression on the next jacket.

 

[Crispyj]

So wanted to share my experience with Sartoria Pastena Elegance. The commission was organized remotely. First off, Antonio is super accessable on WhatsApp and answers all the questions one might have. He is extremely service minded and pleasant to communicate with.

As for the jacket, I'm happy with it for a first commission. There is some rumpling on both sleeves and a bit tight around the armholes.

I asked for an extended shoulder and longer length than I've had previously. I might reduce the shoulder seam and back length for the next commission, as the spalla camicia-shoulder might not hold an extended shoulder as well as other shoulder constructions. The length is also the longest I've had a jacket made up in and I might reduce it 1 to 1.5 cm for the next jacket. I appreciate some input on these points, though.

As for adjustments on this current jacket, I will lengthen the sleeves and take in the lower back to give it some more shape.

All in all, I fully recommend Pastena Elegance.

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Looks great! I would agree on narrowing the shoulders slightly. Length isn't too bad, you could shorten it 1.5cm like you mentioned. I actually made the sleeve head 1cm smaller and higher for the second order haha.

 

[dan'l]

So wanted to share my experience with Sartoria Pastena Elegance. The commission was organized remotely. First off, Antonio is super accessable on WhatsApp and answers all the questions one might have. He is extremely service minded and pleasant to communicate with.

As for the jacket, I'm happy with it for a first commission. There is some rumpling on both sleeves and a bit tight around the armholes.

I asked for an extended shoulder and longer length than I've had previously. I might reduce the shoulder seam and back length for the next commission, as the spalla camicia-shoulder might not hold an extended shoulder as well as other shoulder constructions. The length is also the longest I've had a jacket made up in and I might reduce it 1 to 1.5 cm for the next jacket. I appreciate some input on these points, though.

As for adjustments on this current jacket, I will lengthen the sleeves and take in the lower back to give it some more shape.

All in all, I fully recommend Pastena Elegance.

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Is that the default gorge height? If you keep the current length, perhaps lowering the gorge and widening the lapels a bit would balance it out.

Overall quite good for a remote order! Thanks for sharing.

 

[reidd]

I like the shoulder width. Maybe reduce just a touch on the next commission but I don't think its so wide as to tear down this jacket. Looks good IMO.

 

[Despos]

So wanted to share my experience with Sartoria Pastena Elegance. The commission was organized remotely. First off, Antonio is super accessable on WhatsApp and answers all the questions one might have. He is extremely service minded and pleasant to communicate with.

As for the jacket, I'm happy with it for a first commission. There is some rumpling on both sleeves and a bit tight around the armholes.

I asked for an extended shoulder and longer length than I've had previously. I might reduce the shoulder seam and back length for the next commission, as the spalla camicia-shoulder might not hold an extended shoulder as well as other shoulder constructions. The length is also the longest I've had a jacket made up in and I might reduce it 1 to 1.5 cm for the next jacket. I appreciate some input on these points, though.

As for adjustments on this current jacket, I will lengthen the sleeves and take in the lower back to give it some more shape.

All in all, I fully recommend Pastena Elegance.

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@Psyko
Removing my comments. Didn't think it was right or fair to comment on a jacket made without the tailor and client meeting. I saved the comments and will send to you privately if you want them.

 

[sugarbutch]

I always miss the good stuff...