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The Chai

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Received my suede jacket today
4A4512DE-FF40-48B7-80E6-C5ECD404E867.jpeg
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EFV

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Did a streamed fitting with Pommella for a pair of green cotton trousers. Will add a bit more width all through, shorten the legs to just have a minor break and adjust back slightly. Been very happy with Pommella before, so I’m looking forward to next fitting.
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EFV

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Is that moleskin? Looks great.

No, but it’s not far off. It’s a heavy, brushed cotton, but with a visible twill weave. Will probably wear like moleskin, though even softer.
 

Fonz4

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No, but it’s not far off. It’s a heavy, brushed cotton, but with a visible twill weave. Will probably wear like moleskin, though even softer.
from which merchant / mill ? Do you have a fabric reference?
 

EFV

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from which merchant / mill ? Do you have a fabric reference?
Nope, Gianluca picked out the fabric for me. I’m guessing from some vintage bunch.
 

EFV

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Is Gianluca doing virtual fittings, or is that in-person?

Normally only in person, with the tailor. Since these are extraordinary times, and since I’ve made two trousers with them previously, they did a virtual fitting.
 

Crispyj

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Escorial jackets came in as well as a pair of Larusmiani heavy cotton trousers. Fantastic experience throughout the process. Highly recommended (jackets only in my experience) for anyone with an itch for Neapolitan jacket on a budget.

Yes, I paid for both jackets and trousers. Not sponsored, just a review to help out small tailoring workshops. Definitely near the top for value, imo. Fits me, but ymmv.

I sent in a list of measurements (self measured :satisfied:). I would suggest erring slightly towards looser, bigger measurements. Me having a big ego, gave myself some extra cm in chest and shoulders ? and that worked out well.

Jackets have very soft canvassing, so heavier fabrics will hide the imperfections of the fit a bit better. Of course you can always send them a jacket to clone, to be on the safe side. I would suggest lighter fabrics after one or two orders nailing down the fit. Fittings can be offered but cost goes up a lot.

Overall, I'd say jackets fit pretty good. Just took out of the box and a quick (unthorough) steam. My lower back has a more pronounced arc due to covid gains in the glutes, creating some problems. For next order, I will increase sleeve length 1/3 inch, let waist out a tiny bit 1 inch or so, increase front chest 1 inch, and higher/smaller armhole 1 inch.

Trousers are well made with great details. The dark beige cotton fabric reminds me of Yeezy 350 Moonrocks. Looks green or mint in certain lightings. Sadly, my butt is too big, making it uncomfortable sitting down. I did tell them to use Incotex size 50 for reference, maybe I should have emphasized the regular fit, not the skinny fit ?. Fits my dad fine, so he'll be wearing the pents after a trip to the tailor.

I am wearing a Kamakura shirt made by Vanacore (Luigi Borrelli?) in size 41. Ties are F. Mariano and Drake's.

Edit: I am bloated from having a double quarter pounder and fries for lunch.
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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.3%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 87 38.2%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 24 10.5%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 36 15.8%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 15.8%

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