Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[FlyingHorker]

ye that's where i got the idea to browse magee came from. i am more drawn to the grey/black with colorless speckles tho.
i can see the point of having a more refined touch and that sure is what many want but i guess i just wouldn't enjoy to wear it with denim,cords,sweatpants and sneakers

The good news is you literally can't go wrong with picking any of these fabrics IMO, you're on the right track. O'Connell's uses Magee for their tweed as another reference point for quality.

A charcoal bal in magee fabric would look great.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Some vaguely similiar bold checked jackets Derek has posted too.

 

[konstantis]

Here are some other photos although not a balcamaan.

 

[dieworkwear]

My feeling with a bold bal coat is that you don't necessarily know if you'll like it until you put it on with an actual outfit that you intend on wearing. So in a store, you can try on a bold bal coat and see how it looks with your jeans and sweater. But with a custom bal coat, you don't necessarily know how it will look until it's finished.

In a basic fabric such as herringbone or Donegal, you can more easily conceptualize how the coat may look. But in a bolder fabric, even if you see photos, it may not be so clear. Think of it like ordering clothes from a store -- how many times have you seen something look great in a well-shot photograph and on a very good looking person, but then not like how it looks on you?

Personally, I think a bal is so roomy, there's little upside to going bespoke. If the prices aren't expensive and you happen to have a fabric you want to try out, bespoke can be a good option. Otherwise, a designer will have gone through the various iterative stages to get the collar and silhouette right (at least in his or her own opinion). A tailor will give you one shot, unless you're willing to commission multiple bal coats. They also won't give you the ability to put things back on the rack if you don't like it, unlike with ready to wear.

 

[konstantis]

My feeling with a bold bal coat is that you don't necessarily know if you'll like it until you put it on with an actual outfit that you intend on wearing. So in a store, you can try on a bold bal coat and see how it looks with your jeans and sweater. But with a custom bal coat, you don't necessarily know how it will look until it's finished.

In a basic fabric such as herringbone or Donegal, you can more easily conceptualize how the coat may look. But in a bolder fabric, even if you see photos, it may not be so clear. Think of it like ordering clothes from a store -- how many times have you seen something look great in a well-shot photograph and on a very good looking person, but then not like how it looks on you?

Personally, I think a bal is so roomy, there's little upside to going bespoke. If the prices aren't expensive and you happen to have a fabric you want to try out, bespoke can be a good option. Otherwise, a designer will have gone through the various iterative stages to get the collar and silhouette right (at least in his or her own opinion). A tailor will give you one shot, unless you're willing to commission multiple bal coats. They also won't give you the ability to put things back on the rack if you don't like it, unlike with ready to wear.

Nice post. You have nailed all my worries. Still love the fabric although.

 

[konstantis]

My feeling with a bold bal coat is that you don't necessarily know if you'll like it until you put it on with an actual outfit that you intend on wearing. So in a store, you can try on a bold bal coat and see how it looks with your jeans and sweater. But with a custom bal coat, you don't necessarily know how it will look until it's finished.

In a basic fabric such as herringbone or Donegal, you can more easily conceptualize how the coat may look. But in a bolder fabric, even if you see photos, it may not be so clear. Think of it like ordering clothes from a store -- how many times have you seen something look great in a well-shot photograph and on a very good looking person, but then not like how it looks on you?

Personally, I think a bal is so roomy, there's little upside to going bespoke. If the prices aren't expensive and you happen to have a fabric you want to try out, bespoke can be a good option. Otherwise, a designer will have gone through the various iterative stages to get the collar and silhouette right (at least in his or her own opinion). A tailor will give you one shot, unless you're willing to commission multiple bal coats. They also won't give you the ability to put things back on the rack if you don't like it, unlike with ready to wear.

The good news is that here where I live bespoke clothes many times are cheaper than ready to wear clothes.

 

[undertheskin]

Any reason why you don't want to do ready-to-wear?

well, i would be fine with RTW if i could find something that fits decently, is well designed and has a comparable quality/price ratio as my tailor.

but my situation is pretty much like @FlyingHorker where my bespoke costs as much as RTW i would consider (drakes,ring,kaptain sunshine).

the only point for RTW would be fast accessibility - IF it would fit and can be tried on without too much of a hassle ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

edit: i should've read your latest posts before posting myself.

 

[Despos]

Bold patterns like this and the styling you choose need to be in harmony.
The Chesterfield and DB with peak lapels pictured in this thread don't look right because they breach that concept.
The other issue and one you won't know until it's done is how the pattern is laid on the cloth; as to where the seams, finished edges intersect cloth pattern.
The less interruption of the pattern the better. When you see disruption of the pattern or awkward meeting up of the plaids it becomes a distraction and draws unwanted attention to the area.
The Steed jacket DWW posted shows a well thought out placement of the front dart that made the vertical pattern on the pocket flap match exactly with the body and allowed the empty part of the plaid to be on the front edge. Makes for a clean, uninterrupted look.
With this type of planning/placement you get a better, uninterrupted visual.

 

[aristoi bcn]

These lapels are perfection in size and angle. I don't think the cloth looks that odd in this case but the utility of such an item should be very reduced unless you are really a fan of the russell check.

 

[Despos]

These lapels are perfection in size and angle. I don't think the cloth looks that odd in this case but the utility of such an item should be very reduced unless you are really a fan of the russell check.

This its like using a corduroy or tweed for a tuxedo

The darts aren't cut like the Steed jacket here. These flaps don't align with the vertical stripe of the body like the Steed jacket.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Despos,

Your analysis above, is spot on as always!

As far as the placement of the front darts is concerned, the same holds true for the "pale" Russell check Sport Coat where the optimal position of the darts has also led to an uninterrupted flow of the vertical pattern and a perfect patch pockets' alignment.

Great discussion these last pages, gentlemen; I truly enjoyed it!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[lordsuperb]

These lapels are perfection in size and angle. I don't think the cloth looks that odd in this case but the utility of such an item should be very reduced unless you are really a fan of the russell check.

I dont understand this fabric.

 

[Despos]

I dont understand this fabric.

@lordsuperb
Have another glass of kool aid

 

[sugarbutch]

I dont understand this fabric.

I share this sentiment

 

[The Chai]

I have always wanted a Russell check jacket. But it’s near impossible to wear down under