Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[bry2000]

Gorge is too high.

 

[Dannefalk]

Might go with slightly narrower lapels next time, not much, around 1 cm, what do you think?

View attachment 1453333

Width looks good, I would lower the gorge and maybe the buttoning stance (hard to tell from the picture) and if you lower the gorge, the chest pocket should come down slightly giving it a good balance.

Regards,

/O

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

Last Saturday I visited John Di Pietro to retrieve a navy velvet dinner jacket that I had commissioned in February. I had originally expected delivery rather sooner and occasions for slightly frequenter, but that's 2020 for you... bloody dreadful.

It's an unsubtle garment. The body is navy velvet while the lapels, pocket jets and cuffs are a slightly plusher black velvet. The buttons are covered in the same velvet as the lapels. I had trousers made with it in midnight blue gabardine with the waistband and pockets trimmed in the same black velvet as the lapels and the side seams trimmed with wide satin ribbons.

It was inspired by a picture from the vintage fashion illustrations on Mr. Di Pietro's wall. it's cut rather generously as Mr. Di Pietro was pessimistic about how readily the velvet would take the alteration and the direction that, 'the way that your body changes over time," tends to go. Besides that, it's a dinner jacket, so I intend to eat some large dinners while wearing it, making a generous cut practical.

Anyway, on with my standard photographic routine. This should be especially silly.



The lapels are a full 5" wide and might qualify as Rubenesque. The cuffs are 3" wide. Also note that the chest pocket is jetted, like the hip pockets, rather than welted. This was the tailor's suggestion and something that he had done for me before.

The bowtie is also made of silk velvet. The tuxedo shirt was made for me by Ray Nepomuceno, a local shirtmaker, and the homburg by Stephen Temkin of Leon Drexler.



Not much to see here... well, there' a lot, but not much of interest. I suppose that the covered sleeve buttons merit a little note



The rear view isn't very interesting either, but one might notice that the cuffs extend only over the front half of the end of the sleeves. This was because the tailor found it impractical to have the cuff encircle the whole sleeve as it would interfere with the point where the edges of the sleeve overlap and button closed. Most people will probably only be looking at the front of them anyway and if the party is any good, be too drunk to notice regardless.



Here I am practicing for my eventual debut on the local sex offender registry. I realize that I'm fully clothed in this, but, well, baby steps.

The cummerbund was made by Sam Hober, the studs long ago by Krementz and the braces by Albert Thurston. What they're ignominiously stretched over was made by generations of not having the good sense to decide against having children complimented by lots of cheese.

I don't think that I'll wear this often, in part because it's very bloody warm, but I assure you that I will take every opportunity to do so, no matter, or perhaps because, how much of a madman I might appear to the general public.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Width looks good, I would lower the gorge and maybe the buttoning stance (hard to tell from the picture) and if you lower the gorge, the chest pocket should come down slightly giving it a good balance.

Regards,

/O

Exactly this!

But keep the breast pocket curved, as is!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Third fitting. The suit is almost ready, only trousers will be shortened (a little - 1cm or even less). There is also a minor issue with the right shoulder. I will wear the suit first a few times and if it will not dissapear then Dawid will correct it. Overall I’m happy with the outcome.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Last Saturday I visited John Di Pietro to retrieve a navy velvet dinner jacket that I had commissioned in February. I had originally expected delivery rather sooner and occasions for slightly frequenter, but that's 2020 for you... bloody dreadful.

It's an unsubtle garment. The body is navy velvet while the lapels, pocket jets and cuffs are a slightly plusher black velvet. The buttons are covered in the same velvet as the lapels. I had trousers made with it in midnight blue gabardine with the waistband and pockets trimmed in the same black velvet as the lapels and the side seams trimmed with wide satin ribbons.

It was inspired by a picture from the vintage fashion illustrations on Mr. Di Pietro's wall. it's cut rather generously as Mr. Di Pietro was pessimistic about how readily the velvet would take the alteration and the direction that, 'the way that your body changes over time," tends to go. Besides that, it's a dinner jacket, so I intend to eat some large dinners while wearing it, making a generous cut practical.

Anyway, on with my standard photographic routine. This should be especially silly.

View attachment 1460575

The lapels are a full 5" wide and might qualify as Rubenesque. The cuffs are 3" wide. Also note that the chest pocket is jetted, like the hip pockets, rather than welted. This was the tailor's suggestion and something that he had done for me before.

The bowtie is also made of silk velvet. The tuxedo shirt was made for me by Ray Nepomuceno, a local shirtmaker, and the homburg by Stephen Temkin of Leon Drexler.

View attachment 1460576

Not much to see here... well, there' a lot, but not much of interest. I suppose that the covered sleeve buttons merit a little note

View attachment 1460573

The rear view isn't very interesting either, but one might notice that the cuffs extend only over the front half of the end of the sleeves. This was because the tailor found it impractical to have the cuff encircle the whole sleeve as it would interfere with the point where the edges of the sleeve overlap and button closed. Most people will probably only be looking at the front of them anyway and if the party is any good, be too drunk to notice regardless.

View attachment 1460574

Here I am practicing for my eventual debut on the local sex offender registry. I realize that I'm fully clothed in this, but, well, baby steps.

The cummerbund was made by Sam Hober, the studs long ago by Krementz and the braces by Albert Thurston. What they're ignominiously stretched over was made by generations of not having the good sense to decide against having children complimented by lots of cheese.

I don't think that I'll wear this often, in part because it's very bloody warm, but I assure you that I will take every opportunity to do so, no matter, or perhaps because, how much of a madman I might appear to the general public.

I've been awaiting this post with bated breath since you showed the pics from the earlier fitting. I'm not sure this is as outrageous in public as you might be concerned about? I mean, the lapels are pretty wild, but other than that, It's a dark blue dinner jacket. Seems quite wearable, well, assuming black tie survives COVID. Since it's a bit looser and more relaxed, might you be bold enough to wear this simply as a casual smoking jacket? Looking forward to action pics!

 

[UrbanComposition]

Gotta say @Encathol Epistemia that dinner jacket is pretty baller. Wear it in good health.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I've been awaiting this post with bated breath since you showed the pics from the earlier fitting. I'm not sure this is as outrageous in public as you might be concerned about? I mean, the lapels are pretty wild, but other than that, It's a dark blue dinner jacket. Seems quite wearable, well, assuming black tie survives COVID. Since it's a bit looser and more relaxed, might you be bold enough to wear this simply as a casual smoking jacket? Looking forward to action pics!

I hope that it didn't disappoint your anticipation too badly.

I exaggerated my expectations as to the public response for effect. I don't imagine that most people have much sense of what a dinner jacket is and those lapels are pretty large. I exaggerated any anxieties about public reception for effect; I've always been... uh... let's go with eccentric. I'm more concerned about sweating too much, as velvet is quite insulating, than what anybody might think. I actually think that most people at least slightly enjoy seeing somebody dressed in a way that's now atypical. (A man once asked me for a 'fist-pound' for my bowtie)

I have considered its similarity to a smoking jacket, although I always imagine those with more decoration. I could certainly imagine wearing it on a few cold Philadelphia nights for added warmth, especially if I have my pipe or a cigar lit. Otherwise, I had planned when I first ordered to wear on my next 'Philaversary', which is the preposterous occasion that I celebrate moving to Philadelphia by first going to a cigar bar, then to a steakhouse that's decorated in the style of the nineteen fifties. It's a preposterous celebration of elevating cancer risk. Maybe next year...

Gotta say @Encathol Epistemia that dinner jacket is pretty baller. Wear it in good health.

Thank you and I will, although if the parties that I go to are any good, maybe not.

I'll pass the compliments along to the tailor. He doesn't quite grasp how things like Styleforum work, but he's taken some satisfaction in my presenting his work here.

 

[yywwyy]

Finished recently: Lovat 3-ply navy wool. Very matte, which I'm really happy with.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Finished recently: Lovat 3-ply navy wool. Very matte, which I'm really happy with.

View attachment 1461774

Aha, somone else who appreciates the slightly extended shoulder. Looks good!

 

[krakatoa]

Finished recently: Lovat 3-ply navy wool. Very matte, which I'm really happy with.

Looks good. Is this from their Bard book? Do you recall the bunch number?

 

[classicalthunde]

Finished recently: Lovat 3-ply navy wool. Very matte, which I'm really happy with.

View attachment 1461774

do you know what fabric reference number this is? Bard book I presume?

Edit: I should really read the full threads before commenting

 

[yywwyy]

Looks good. Is this from their Bard book? Do you recall the bunch number?

do you know what fabric reference number this is? Bard book I presume?

Edit: I should really read the full threads before commenting

Gents, it is from their Bard book. I do not have the ref number written down anywhere, but i do know that it is a true navy color.

 

[Crispyj]

Sending back to get the sleeve head fixed. Overall very happy with how the jacket came out, especially the lapels, notch and collar.

I probably should have went with jetted pockets or 3/4" longer jacket length.
Should have listened to the old tailor

Next commission will be the perfect jacket doing the above and lowering the breast pocket 1.5". 3rd time's the charm.

Edit: Sorry wearing sweatpants and t-shirt.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Crispyj,

Since you'll send the jacket back for the sleeve-head, don't you discuss with your tailor the possibility to lengthen it?

From your pictures and only, the patch pockets are almost reaching the edges of the quarters! I am more than certain that there is fabric left inside so as to lengthen it couple of cm; the jacket will tremendously benefit from this.

Another observation I am afraid: the lapel buttonhole, is way remote from the lapel edge, almost in the centre of the lapel; this cannot be remedied but perhaps something to have in mind for your next commissions.

As always, enjoy it in health!

Best,

Dimitris