Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

Why?

Sort of, I own a raglan wrap trench. I like the very full cut, but that's the very reason why I find it not versatile.

@lordsuperb
Because this statement seems contradictory. He likes a full cut but finds it not versatile.
Guessing because how it fits with what he wears it over. It doesn't fit as snug with just a shirt but wants to wear bulky sweaters.
Raglans look good on some body types more than others. The pictures posted make the shoulders look very rounded and makes the body look bigger than it is. The body has no shaping. Raglans with this proportion aren't always flattering.
Thought trying one on would help by giving a visual and allow him to dial in the fit and proportions.
His trench coat is 2 sizes too big.

 

[lordsuperb]

@lordsuperb
Because this statement seems contradictory. He likes a full cut but finds it not versatile.
Guessing because how it fits with what he wears it over. It doesn't fit as snug with just a shirt but wants to wear bulky sweaters.
Raglans look good on some body types more than others. The pictures posted make the shoulders look very rounded and makes the body look bigger than it is. The body has no shaping. Raglans with this proportion aren't always flattering.
Thought trying one on would help by giving a visual and allow him to dial in the fit and proportions.
His trench coat is 2 sizes too big.

I take it you wouldn't recommend a raglan jacket for someone who has broad shoulders?

 

[Despos]

I take it you wouldn't recommend a raglan jacket for someone who has broad shoulders?

Not if it makes the shoulder appear more prominent and you prefer not to have prominent shoulders.
Think moderating the cut to work with broad shoulders can be done. Have seen some very talented tailors cut very trim, square shouldered raglan coats that looked fantastic to me.
Have only made two maybe three raglans. Don't have much experience making them. Have one cut for myself to experiment with, but who knows when I'll get around to making it.

 

[FlyingHorker]

@lordsuperb
Because this statement seems contradictory. He likes a full cut but finds it not versatile.
Guessing because how it fits with what he wears it over. It doesn't fit as snug with just a shirt but wants to wear bulky sweaters.
Raglans look good on some body types more than others. The pictures posted make the shoulders look very rounded and makes the body look bigger than it is. The body has no shaping. Raglans with this proportion aren't always flattering.
Thought trying one on would help by giving a visual and allow him to dial in the fit and proportions.
His trench coat is 2 sizes too big.

I'll basically go for the same cut as DDL in Phantom Thread, I like how that looks.

 

[Egdon Heath]

I'll talk to my tailor regarding warm, but durable fabrics for pockets.

USN specs for enlisted men's pea coats during WWII (and I think for some time after) specified fawn-colored medium wale corduroy as pocket liner. I have two such. And while not above deck on a cruiser in the North Sea 75 years ago, can say they do just fine when the wind blusters hard here come winter in northern Maine.

 

[dieworkwear]

Why go bespoke for a raglan overcoat?

DDL's overcoat looks too slim to me.

 

[Despos]

we use velvet as pocketing in topcoats. Woollen flannel would work.

 

[The Chai]

Why go bespoke for a raglan overcoat?

DDL's overcoat looks too slim to me.

I never saw the point of a bespoke raglan coat...same as bespoke trench coats...unless you want a specific pocket for the PPK, inside sling for a SMG...and don't forget the kevlar layer for a chest piece!!!

 

[FlyingHorker]

USN specs for enlisted men's pea coats during WWII (and I think for some time after) specified fawn-colored medium wale corduroy as pocket liner. I have two such. And while not above deck on a cruiser in the North Sea 75 years ago, can say they do just fine when the wind blusters hard here come winter in northern Maine.

we use velvet as pocketing in topcoats. Woollen flannel would work.

I'll bring up corduroy and wool flannel for pocketing to my tailor. He may not have the latter, but I'll look into it

Why go bespoke for a raglan overcoat?

DDL's overcoat looks too slim to me.

Interesting, to me his coat looked just right and I have a similiar frame. It's less slim than the overcoat I have, but not huge like my trench coat.

So I can get the exact fit/silhouette/fabric/details that I want, and my tailor charges a reasonable price. I've looked at lots of Bal coats, and they're either too short, fly front, A-line silhouette, too expensive, or don't have a belt etc.

 

[The Chai]

I think the only outfit I liked from the Phantom Thread is the 15Oz barathea DJ. Correct me if I'm wrong but most of the stuff in that film does not seem to fit right despite being made by A&S. The lavender bow ties and socks are sick though!

 

[dieworkwear]

Topcoat worn just over a shirt also sounds a bit odd to me, as an outfit.

I think you'd be better off just buying something nice off the rack, trying it with different combinations at home, and returning it if you don't like it.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I think the only outfit I liked from the Phantom Thread is the 15Oz barathea DJ. Correct me if I'm wrong but most of the stuff in that film does not seem to fit right despite being made by A&S. The lavender bow ties and socks are sick though!

I didn't watch it, but it seemed like most of his suits were slightly too large from the images I saw of DDL.

Topcoat worn just over a shirt also sounds a bit odd to me, as an outfit.

I think you'd be better off just buying something nice off the rack, trying it with different combinations at home, and returning it if you don't like it.

I dress pretty casual, but have a fetish for overcoats. My outfits worn will range from anything to a shirt, to a shirt/polo with shawl cardigans, overshirt+t-shirt/collared shirt etc.

The only one I've found in stock was the SEH Kelly one, and that's the same total cost if I just go to my tailor.

I think I've enough pictures for my tailor to give me what I'm looking for.

 

[Despos]

Some raglans have deep armholes that can be very uncomfortable and actually hinder movement despite the generous fit. Benefits of a high armhole apply here as well.
I have one RTW raglan rain coat and bought it two sizes smaller than my chest size and got a great fit. I hate the feeling of wearing loose, voluminous clothing. Prefer snug, close to the body

 

[The Chai]

I didn't watch it, but it seemed like most of his suits were slightly too large from the images I saw of DDL.

I dress pretty casual, but have a fetish for overcoats. My outfits worn will range from anything to a shirt, to a shirt/polo with shawl cardigans, overshirt+t-shirt/collared shirt etc.

The only one I've found in stock was the SEH Kelly one, and that's the same total cost if I just go to my tailor.

I think I've enough pictures for my tailor to give me what I'm looking for.

I made that previous comment partly because you get a lot of good overcoats in thrift stores. I have never considered even getting one brand new off the rack. If this is the case and the cost is the same..go for it!

 

[The Chai]

Some raglans have deep armholes that can be very uncomfortable and actually hinder movement despite the generous fit. Benefits of a high armhole apply here as well.
I have one RTW raglan rain coat and bought it two sizes smaller than my chest size and got a great fit. I hate the feeling of wearing loose, voluminous clothing. Prefer snug, close to the body

I have this problem with my favorite trench coat