Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Crispyj]

Stuck with 4.75" lapels. Breast pocket looks a tad high because I asked for a lower gorge. Also, it is a barchetta. Not sure if Frank made the patch pockets "tasca a pignata" but close enough I'm really pushing my luck here ? Frank if you see this, I'm really grateful of you for putting up with some of my ****. Can't wait for the next first fitting.

 

[kid1002]

Appreciate my tailor sketching things out for me everytime to visualize

 

[dan'l]

Totally agree with the comments of having a good relationship with your tailor, with mutual respect, admiration, etc. However, my original post related to how to handle alterations you ask him to make, when said work can be very time consuming. Afterall, I respect that my tailor needs to earn a living and when he‘s doing alterations of stuff he made for me over the years, he cannot be making new pieces for other clients. Therefore I can understand A&S charging for alterations, though perhaps not at exorbitant rates.

Anyways, thanks for everyone’s feedback.

 

[hpreston]

Totally agree with the comments of having a good relationship with your tailor, with mutual respect, admiration, etc. However, my original post related to how to handle alterations you ask him to make, when said work can be very time consuming. Afterall, I respect that my tailor needs to earn a living and when he‘s doing alterations of stuff he made for me over the years, he cannot be making new pieces for other clients. Therefore I can understand A&S charging for alterations, though perhaps not at exorbitant rates.

Anyways, thanks for everyone’s feedback.

Just catching up on this thread

This is my experience (and mine alone, so take it for what it's worth)

I used to frequent a now defunct brick and mortar shop that offered ready to wear, some MTM, and bespoke shirting..... the store’s policy was to offer lifetime alterations on any garment purchased from that shop. Then owner always said to me, you gain ten pounds, and need some things let out, bring them in. He would rather the alterations be done correctly than items be taken somewhere else. This was the store's policy.

I have also used various MTM services, and they certainly differ by store/brand. One I use offers the initial tweak to MTM, after that, they charge….. Another shop is more lenient, offering some alterations, within reason, over time, at no charge

Other posters have said the certain tailors offer lifetime alterations while others do not. I think it best to ask.... simply ask, what is the alterations policy?

 

[dan'l]

I aired on the side of caution and tipped my tailor for the alterations I requested, especially since the work to be done is extensive (seems like he‘ll need to take in the chest a bit as well and not only the waist) and I brought back multiple pieces. In the years I‘ve been visiting him he hasn’t raised prices on me and he certainly isn’t charging what Liverano or even Steed does.

Not saying that anyone in particular implied it, but I don’t get the whole gifting / dining angle. I mean, I gift or invite people to a meal that I like, whether they are a friend, a colleague or even a tailor. I’m not sure how this equates to compensating their time and labor for making alterations. I suppose I agree most with what @dieworkwear said, i.e. that some tailors include alterations in the price of the garment, similar to what @hpreston wrote above for the B&M store.

 

[jiredell]

Haven’t posted here for a minute, but pic of the basting fitting for my single-breasted peak lapel one-button (thanks SF members for the input!) 3 piece suit. Just the jacket so far:

 

[Crispyj]

Well, Frank works faster than I can breathe.

Edit: 80 hours to finish a bench made jacket ? Sorry to bombard y'all with the sped up process

 

[DavidLane]

Look at that Fuc*#ng lapel. You can surf under that thing!

-DL

 

[Viatu]

Stuck with 4.75" lapels. Breast pocket looks a tad high because I asked for a lower gorge. Also, it is a barchetta. Not sure if Frank made the patch pockets "tasca a pignata" but close enough I'm really pushing my luck here ? Frank if you see this, I'm really grateful of you for putting up with some of my ****. Can't wait for the next first fitting.

View attachment 1432241
View attachment 1432240 View attachment 1432242

I recently went with 12 cm (4.72 inches) lapels on a navy blue suit I commissioned with Sartoria Pastena Elegance of Naples. Go big or go home is what I say.

 

[hpreston]

Are MTM projects ok to post here? Or just bespoke?

 

[classicalthunde]

Are MTM projects ok to post here? Or just bespoke?

My commissions shared on here have been in the semi-bespoke range, somewhere between standard MTM and 'classic' bespoke, with some involving a basted fitting and others going straight to a forward.

I think there is often a spectrum between MTM and full bespoke, and would argue that as long as your getting a unique pattern or are able to do more nuanced things (belly on the lapel, change lapel size or move the gorge height as you wish, not restricted to a pre-set menu of style options) on your commission then it would make sense to post it here.

a lot of what I use this thread for is more input and opinions vs. how a commission is progressing through its construction

 

[Crispyj]

Coming out great, fingers crossed ?
Double pick stitching along lapels. (Thank you @aristoi bcn for the inspiration)

Going to be 3 roll 2. @DavidLane , I set you up with all the details so you can ask Frank to make one for yourself as well If any of you ask Frank for this specific jacket, I'd suggest you tell Frank to lower the breast pocket by 1.5 inches. It'll look more proportionally Italian ? Overlook on my end, but I don't use the breast pocket often.

 

[lordsuperb]

Coming out great, fingers crossed ?
Double pick stitching along lapels. (Thank you @aristoi bcn for the inspiration)

Going to be 3 roll 2. @DavidLane , I set you up with all the details so you can ask Frank to make one for yourself as well If any of you ask Frank for this specific jacket, I'd suggest you tell Frank to lower the breast pocket by 1.5 inches. It'll look more proportionally Italian ? Overlook on my end, but I don't use the breast pocket often.
View attachment 1433410 View attachment 1433409 View attachment 1433408 View attachment 1433407

The double stitching does not work well with the fabric.

 

[Crispyj]

The double stitching does not work well with the fabric.

How so?

 

[lordsuperb]

How so?

I'm not a fan of double stitching on smooth worsted fabric, but to each their own.