Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[dieworkwear]

Yes, I plan to tip him, especially since his prices are reasonable and he hasn‘t increased them on me. I‘m just wondering what is a fair amount, hence my original question...

In the past, I've tried to show my appreciation for tailors by getting them a nice bottle of wine, something in their area of interest, or by taking them out for dinner. I imagine dinner is going to be out of the question for a while. And I imagine people would appreciate hard cash nowadays more than wine.

I don't know. Tip amounts seem very personal. I figure overdoing it is better than underdoing it. And I suppose it depends on what kind of work you're hoping to get done (meaning for the alterations).

If it were me, I would just figure out how much the alteration would cost me otherwise and then set that as a baseline. If the alteration costs $100 normally, then I'd maybe tip them $100. If it's a very cheap alteration, say $20, I'd probably tip a little more cause a $20 tip seems a bit thin. Or, alternatively, if you normally take tailors out to dinner or have gifted them a bottle of wine, maybe just convert that amount into cash.

 

[dan'l]

Thanks for your post, Derek. I bought him a nice bottle of wine last time we met, just because it was after his birthday. But this time I agree that cash is better. Your recommendations seem good. I just have no idea what alterations for suit coats & trousers (taking in the waist on both) normally runs, since the only thing I get altered is casual chinos and that is just to have the length adjusted. I think I need to find an alterations shop in my neighborhood to check their price list!

 

[dieworkwear]

Thanks for your post, Derek. I bought him a nice bottle of wine last time we met, just because it was after his birthday. But this time I agree that cash is better. Your recommendations seem good. I just have no idea what alterations for suit coats & trousers (taking in the waist on both) normally runs, since the only thing I get altered is casual chinos and that is just to have the length adjusted. I think I need to find an alterations shop in my neighborhood to check their price list!

I once asked a bespoke tailor if people have tipped him. He said he has not, but he has received Christmas gifts. Whatever you tip, I'm sure the person on the other end will just appreciate that their work is valued and you're thinking of them.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

One tailor I've worked with told me that he typically refuses tips, although this came after he had received a tip from a customer who was in a great hurry and was gone too quickly for his offer to be declined. I've given another tailor bottles of Scotch at final fittings. I'd seen a bottle or two sitting on his shelves and it's something that I knew pretty well, so I thought that it would be suitable; this seems to have been well received and a glass of the stuff makes for good company while poring over bunch books.

 

[moddey]

Anderson & Sheppards charges for alterations.

I've had a lot of things altered at A&S; they may have been a bit gruff about it but I don't recall being charged. It's been awhile though so things may have changed.

 

[dieworkwear]

I've had a lot of things altered at A&S; they may have been a bit gruff about it but I don't recall being charged. It's been awhile though so things may have changed.

Paul (the guy behind the IG account paulluxsartoria) said he was charged something like $100 to take in the waist (don't hold me to the number. I don't remember the exact amount, but it was pretty high).

I had a jacket that also needed to be altered at some point. I vaguely remember them telling me that they charge for alterations. This was a few years ago.

 

[zr3rs]

Hello Gents,

I need advice on situation for my first bespoke order which is already under way.
I've chose navy cloth based on swatch, however since I'm not very good at scaling up the color I asked tailor for finished examples if possible.


Other picture I've googled by cloth name - Standeven Explorer 2039:


The possible explanations by tailor are: different filter in instagram, different lightning or different years of batches.
Final point is - i've chosen cloth from swatch. However, I feel I've been bit misled.

Would you lay your opinion how to reach in such situation for first timer in bespoke world.

Thanks.

2039 does not seem to be a current number in the Explorer bunch, the numbers are 5 digit now, they could habe replaced an equivalent of the old number would be sold out. That is probably not the problem however.

These are the same suir.

Both outdoors but with a different lighting situation. Navies are notoriously hard to photograph.

But the colour you got is a nice navy and not too bright, so enjoy it.

 

[L.deJong]

One tailor I've worked with told me that he typically refuses tips, although this came after he had received a tip from a customer who was in a great hurry and was gone too quickly for his offer to be declined. I've given another tailor bottles of Scotch at final fittings. I'd seen a bottle or two sitting on his shelves and it's something that I knew pretty well, so I thought that it would be suitable; this seems to have been well received and a glass of the stuff makes for good company while poring over bunch books.

I gave my tailor a birthday present and we went out to fine-dine. Because it was also his 60th anniversary as a tailor. It brought tears to his eyes. It was an amazing evening. I value bespoke more because of the relationship than the 'superior' fit. Because most of the rtw stuff fits me great anyway.

 

[clothingfun]

I value bespoke more because of the relationship than the 'superior' fit. Because most of the rtw stuff fits me great anyway.

This pretty much sums it up for me as well. I am not afforded an opportunity to get dressed up all that often (even back in my working days as I wore a uniform) and I’m a very easy fit with off the rack anyway.

In addition to a very nice wardrobe, the value for me in bespoke is I thoroughly enjoy the process and experience as well as the relationships.

After a trunk show fitting with the traveling tailor (who isn’t traveling right now but you get the idea) I do business with I always enjoy buying my cutter a nice meal if his schedule permits. When I make the yearly trip to visit my shirtmaker I do likewise and always plan several days around my appointment as a brief little vacation.

My local tailor and I have become pretty good friends over the years and whenever I’m in town he loves it when I swing by and have a drink with him even if I don’t commission anything. Same thing when he and his wife are in my neck of the woods.

Bespoke has given me a lot of fun times and great memories as well as great looking clothes.

 

[L.deJong]

This pretty much sums it up for me as well. I am not afforded an opportunity to get dressed up all that often (even in back in my working days as I wore a uniform) and I’m a very easy fit with off the rack anyway.

In addition to a very nice wardrobe, the value for me in bespoke is I thoroughly enjoy the process and experience as well as the relationships.

After a trunk show fitting with the traveling tailor (who isn’t traveling right now but you get the idea) I do business with I always enjoy buying my cutter a nice meal if his schedule permits. When I make the yearly trip to visit my shirtmaker I do likewise and always plan several days around my appointment as a brief little vacation.

My local tailor and I have become pretty good friends over the years and whenever I’m in town he loves it when I swing buy and have a drink with him even if I don’t commission anything. Same thing when he and his wife are in my neck of the woods.

Bespoke has given me a lot of fun times and great memories as well as great looking clothes.

That's it! in this day and age when almost everything is made by someone you (the buyer) doesn't know it's refreshing to actually speak with the maker (or at least cutter) of your bespoke commission.

 

[Crispyj]

My new commission by Frank, dubbed Irish Neapolitan Giacca. Frank's first time making a jacket full of Italian details. Using the Fox Air walnut.

 

[lordsuperb]

My new commission by Frank, dubbed Irish Neapolitan Giacca. Frank's first time making a jacket full of Italian details. Using the Fox Air walnut.
View attachment 1431485 View attachment 1431484

The lapels are too big.

 

[Crispyj]

The lapels are too big.

They aren't finished yet. And it's the same width as my last coat made by Frank.

Edit: To be fair, the new sport jacket was cut for 4.75" lapels. I changed my mind last night back to 4.5". Should I go for 4.75"?

 

[kid1002]

Here's a jacket made of Harrison's "Indigo" bunch. Completed back in late 2019. It's in wool-silk-linen, so I'm finally able to dust this off from my wardrobe now.

This garment is incredibly soft, possibly the lightest in my jacketing wardrobe. It's not just because the cloth is extremely lightweight (230g), but it's also because my tailor's (Lancer Bespoke) jackets are always softly made, almost unconstructed.

A lot attention put into cutting, ironing, and shaping the fabric has taken place before it's completed.

I've gained roughly 10 pounds in the first half of 2020, but I'd still happily wear this out often.

 

[kid1002]

I'm currently having this made into a 2p suit.

Basted fitting done just last week. Looking forward to my next fitting in late August.

Garments for other customers in display.