Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[4r36]

IMO the extended shoulder on Mr. R. is meant to broaden his shoulder/chest so he doesn't look so A line from shoulder to hip. The droop is a side effect. You can see the point his shoulder ends under the jacket. Looks like he has pretty narrow shoulders compared to waist girth.
That shoulder droop is one of the most off putting things to me. Would not ever want to make a shoulder like that.

I don't know whether the droop on Rubinacci's jackets is a side effect or not, but I believe that in general the droopy shoulder is considered a stylistic choice in Naples. The first time I met my tailor, he explicitly asked me whether I want it or not...

 

[paborden]

Speaking of all these things we're seeing in terms of pockets and shoulders ... could anyone point me to a list of tailoring terms in Italian? Especially when it comes to different pocket treatments

 

[aristoi bcn]

Patch pocket is tasca a toppa or applicata and jetted pocket is tasca tagliata.

 

[Punt]

Dear forum members, La Montagne are planning to come to London end September, beginning of October (to be confirmed) - they have a few customers already, but if anyone interested, you can contact them to make an appointment. CMT cost for suit @1750 euro (1400 jacket and 350 trousers), Coat 1500 and shirt 220 euro including basic fabrics (9 steps by hand).

They carry plenty of books and we have some very happy customers in the Netherlands already.

If you are interested: +39 339 741 0765

You can app Cristian, he is fluent in English, which is fantastic.

 

[Punt]

Dear forum members, La Montagne are planning to come to London end September, beginning of October (to be confirmed) - they have a few customers already, but if anyone interested, you can contact them to make an appointment. CMT cost for suit @1750 euro (1400 jacket and 350 trousers), Coat 1500 and shirt 220 euro including basic fabrics (9 steps by hand).

They carry plenty of books and we have some very happy customers in the Netherlands already.

If you are interested: +39 339 741 0765

You can app Cristian, he is fluent in English, which is fantastic.

Instagram

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[classicalthunde]

Has anyone commissioned any sportcoats/suits from Tailor CAID? Or, do you know of any bespoke/high end MTM that have a ivy-style house style? Weighing a couple of options for some new Harris Tweed jacket lengths from Urgha Loom Shed...

 

[Crispyj]

Has anyone commissioned any sportcoats/suits from Tailor CAID? Or, do you know of any bespoke/high end MTM that have a ivy-style house style? Weighing a couple of options for some new Harris Tweed jacket lengths from Urgha Loom Shed...

Seen a Tailor CAID suit in Japan, looked really neat, but I still prefer wide lapels. The Armoury model 11 is more ivy style, based on model 99 from Tailor CAID if I'm correct. Can get it MTM during Ring Jacket trunkshow.

 

[classicalthunde]

Seen a Tailor CAID suit in Japan, looked really neat, but I still prefer wide lapels. The Armoury model 11 is more ivy style, based on model 99 from Tailor CAID if I'm correct. Can get it MTM during Ring Jacket trunkshow.

Yea, I definitely would specify wider (3.5"/3.75"l) lapels...The olive cotton Tailor CAID jacket that Mark Cho highlighted in his recent instagram stories had a wider lapel too, which is what peaked my curiosity

 

[ChasingStyle]

Has anyone commissioned any sportcoats/suits from Tailor CAID? Or, do you know of any bespoke/high end MTM that have a ivy-style house style? Weighing a couple of options for some new Harris Tweed jacket lengths from Urgha Loom Shed...

I reached out to Yamamoto san to commission a suit - he is very strict about fittings (at least 3, if I remember correctly, maybe 2?), so unless you are in Tokyo often, it doesn't seem practical to commission from him, unless you are willing to take a couple of years to complete the suit. I ended up buying one of his suits from someone roughly my size and getting it altered. Not perfect, but close enough.

 

[classicalthunde]

I reached out to Yamamoto san to commission a suit - he is very strict about fittings (at least 3, if I remember correctly, maybe 2?), so unless you are in Tokyo often, it doesn't seem practical to commission from him, unless you are willing to take a couple of years to complete the suit. I ended up buying one of his suits from someone roughly my size and getting it altered. Not perfect, but close enough.

good to know, I will clarify with the visit schedule/# of fittings with the staff at the Armoury before committing...I dont mind waiting a year or (at most) 18 months til delivery, but anything longer than that would probably be a deal breaker

 

[ChasingStyle]

good to know, I will clarify with the visit schedule/# of fittings with the staff at the Armoury before committing...I dont mind waiting a year or (at most) 18 months til delivery, but anything longer than that would probably be a deal breaker

Sorry, maybe I misunderstood. I wasn't aware he was doing trunk show(s) through the Armoury. If that's the case, I imagine they have a pretty well defined plan for fittings - you should be fine. I reached out to him in one of my Tokyo visits, planning (and failing) to go directly to his shop there.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I had a quite pleasant fitting with Joseph Genuardi today on a grey three-piece suit and navy blazer. He hasn't seen many customers lately and although that's allowed him to make good progress against his backlog, it doesn't help cash flow.

Both fit well and looked marvelous. The navy blazer is, I believe, a particular success. It has a pretty bold lapel, but the shape came together nicely and it is exceptionally comfortable. Everything that Mr. Genuardi has made for me has fit well, of course, but this blazer was extraordinarily pleasant to wear

In what is a classic sort of thing to happen to me, after the fitting when I bent down to get something from my satchel, I split the seam of my trousers. Fortunately, it was just a clean break of the thread and the best place to split your trousers is the shop of the tailor who made them. Mr. Genuardi sewed the split closed and pressed the trousers as I looked through the bunch books. (For those concerned for my modesty, I wore the trousers from the grey suit, which aced their extended try-on)

After that I settled upon my choices of cloth for another suit and another jacket.

The suit will be a three-piece, single-breasted two-button with cran necker lapels and semi-slant flapped pockets in that entrancing Draper's blue solaro that I had asked about elsewhere earlier. I was a little uncertain about it, but seeing it myself and feeling it with my own hands sold me on it. (The picture doesn't do its color, which is almost mercurial, justice)

How about the Apollo barathea instead of the hopsack?

On that note, how dark of a green is the AA9? I have a DB jacket in the Apollo dark brown serge, which I chose without seeing in person and got lucky that the shade of brown is almost exactly what I wanted.

Funnily enough and contrary to my own original statement, I chose the barathea (AA27, I believe) after all. I knew what I wanted for the jacket, but I reviewed the bunch book as a matter of due diligence. When I found the barathea, I began to think that it might be more appropriate to the garment I was envisioning and Mr. Genuardi recommended it over the hopsack, so I agreed. The jacket will be a single-breasted high three-button with peaked lapels and a box-pleated belted back. Mr. Genuardi must have thought that it was very eccentric, but was game for it. (We briefly discussed more unusual garments toward the end of my visit and he indicated that we would have to do a smoking jacket for me one of these days...)

 

[Despos]

I had a quite pleasant fitting with Joseph Genuardi today on a grey three-piece suit and navy blazer. He hasn't seen many customers lately and although that's allowed him to make good progress against his backlog, it doesn't help cash flow.

Both fit well and looked marvelous. The navy blazer is, I believe, a particular success. It has a pretty bold lapel, but the shape came together nicely and it is exceptionally comfortable. Everything that Mr. Genuardi has made for me has fit well, of course, but this blazer was extraordinarily pleasant to wear

View attachment 1422376

In what is a classic sort of thing to happen to me, after the fitting when I bent down to get something from my satchel, I split the seam of my trousers. Fortunately, it was just a clean break of the thread and the best place to split your trousers is the shop of the tailor who made them. Mr. Genuardi sewed the split closed and pressed the trousers as I looked through the bunch books. (For those concerned for my modesty, I wore the trousers from the grey suit, which aced their extended try-on)

After that I settled upon my choices of cloth for another suit and another jacket.

The suit will be a three-piece, single-breasted two-button with cran necker lapels and semi-slant flapped pockets in that entrancing Draper's blue solaro that I had asked about elsewhere earlier. I was a little uncertain about it, but seeing it myself and feeling it with my own hands sold me on it. (The picture doesn't do its color, which is almost mercurial, justice)

View attachment 1422375



Funnily enough and contrary to my own original statement, I chose the barathea (AA27, I believe) after all. I knew what I wanted for the jacket, but I reviewed the bunch book as a matter of due diligence. When I found the barathea, I began to think that it might be more appropriate to the garment I was envisioning and Mr. Genuardi recommended it over the hopsack, so I agreed. The jacket will be a single-breasted high three-button with peaked lapels and a box-pleated belted back. Mr. Genuardi must have thought that it was very eccentric, but was game for it. (We briefly discussed more unusual garments toward the end of my visit and he indicated that we would have to do a smoking jacket for me one of these days...)

Beautiful fitting jacket! Looks great!

 

[brax]

I’ve kinda been loading up on fall/winter wear lately. I have three ongoing commissions from my USA tailor and have a few with my Naples tailor.

 

[classicalthunde]

I’ve kinda been loading up on fall/winter wear lately. I have three ongoing commissions from my USA tailor and have a few with my Naples tailor.
View attachment 1423731
View attachment 1423732

whose your USA tailor? if you don’t mind sharing...