Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

Not sure why we/me are discussing this on SF, seems more appropriate for a tailors forum. Want to point out this straightening/crooking thing is something I’ve grappled with for decades. It’s hard to discern the cause and effects it has. For the longest time I didn't think I understood it. Can only say I have a better understanding at present as to what it does and what it doesn’t do, when to apply it and when not to. Five years from now will probably understand it better than I do now.

 

[Toninno]

I shift the neck point often. It’s right there in the Mitchell System. I just did it for a new customer. I do it often. But not for the reason this gent explains. He may just be under-explaining for the customer.

Also, “crooking” the shoulder , to me, is something I’ve never understood. Crooking the shoulder is squaring the shoulder so the armhole must be raised with it. I thing customers just like saying it. I have yet to have someone explain it to me.

 

[Toninno]

Not sure why we/me are discussing this on SF, seems more appropriate for a tailors forum. Want to point out this straightening/crooking thing is something I’ve grappled with for decades. It’s hard to discern the cause and effects it does. For the longest time I never thought I understood it. Can only say I have a better understanding at present as to what it does and what it doesn’t do, when to apply it and when not to. Five years from now will probably understand it better than I do now.

Chris, nothing to grapple with. It’s baseless.

 

[Despos]

Also, “crooking” the shoulder , to me, is something I’ve never understood. Crooking the shoulder is squaring the shoulder so the armhole must be raised with it. I thing customers just like saying it. I have yet to have someone explain it to me.

Ask an Italian tailor if he cuts a crooked or straight jacket (That’s a pun) and watch his expression/reaction!

 

[Despos]

Some more Standeven Explorer suit photos View attachment 1396037 View attachment 1396038 View attachment 1396039 View attachment 1396040 View attachment 1396041 View attachment 1396042

Been following her IG posts, saw these pictures there. She is doing nice work!

 

[Toninno]

Ask an Italian tailor if he cuts a crooked or straight jacket (That’s a pun) and watch his expression/reaction!

He’d tell you you need a straight jacket ???. I’ve heard it for years. Crook the shoulder. But it means nothing.

 

[dieworkwear]

Chris, nothing to grapple with. It’s baseless.

I'm sure people here would benefit if you reached out to Edwin directly to ask him what he means in his video. From my experience with him, he's a very skilled cutter, although I am obviously not trained in tailoring and can't judge this for myself beyond how my coats look on me.

 

[Despos]

He’d tell you you need a straight jacket ???. I’ve heard it for years. Crook the shoulder. But it means nothing.

Causes more problems than a solution for problems

 

[Toninno]

I'm sure people here would benefit if you reached out to Edwin directly to ask him what he means in his video. From my experience with him, he's a very skilled cutter, although I am obviously not trained in tailoring and can't judge this for myself beyond how my coats look on me.

I think he’s talking for customers and not tailors. A bit of razzle dazzle. I have a great understanding of all of this stuff. This explanation is baseless. I like his work very much myself.

 

[Despos]

I'm sure people here would benefit if you reached out to Edwin directly to ask him what he means in his video. From my experience with him, he's a very skilled cutter, although I am obviously not trained in tailoring and can't judge this for myself beyond how my coats look on me.

It’s a text book explanation that many tailors I know just accept. Most tailors will agree with the explanation on face value. I thought the same way for a long time but I questioned it because it seemed contradictory. The result didn’t match the explanation. The more I looked into it and experimented the more I grasped it. This is one area that making a pattern and doing the sewing gives more insight. When you make the changes and then do the sewing the result is more evident. Pattern making is only theory until the sewing brings the realization. Something tangible to evaluate the effect/result.
In edwins explanation he said himself it’s hard to understand because it seems to cause the opposite reaction.
I’ve done the adjustment like Edwin describes but now I don’t. I am happier with the outcome.

 

[Toninno]

It’s a text book explanation that many tailors I know just accept. Most tailors will agree with the explanation on face value. I thought the same way for a long time but I questioned it because it seemed contradictory. The result didn’t match the explanation. The more I looked into it and experimented the more I grasped it. This is one area that making a pattern and doing the sewing gives more insight. When you make the changes and then do the sewing the result is more evident. Pattern making is only theory until the sewing brings the realization. Something tangible to evaluate the effect/result.
In edwins explanation he said himself it’s hard to understand because it seems to cause the opposite reaction.
I’ve done the adjustment like Edwin describes but now I don’t. I am happier with the outcome.

I’m standing by my experience. It doesn’t add up.

 

[lordsuperb]

It’s a text book explanation that many tailors I know just accept. Most tailors will agree with the explanation on face value. I thought the same way for a long time but I questioned it because it seemed contradictory. The result didn’t match the explanation. The more I looked into it and experimented the more I grasped it. This is one area that making a pattern and doing the sewing gives more insight. When you make the changes and then do the sewing the result is more evident. Pattern making is only theory until the sewing brings the realization. Something tangible to evaluate the effect/result.
In edwins explanation he said himself it’s hard to understand because it seems to cause the opposite reaction.
I’ve done the adjustment like Edwin describes but now I don’t. I am happier with the outcome.

I’m standing by my experience. It doesn’t add up.

Why do you think those A&S jackets missed the mark?

 

[Toninno]

Why do you think those A&S jackets missed the mark?

Which ones ? The ones on the hangers ? If they’re not on the customer I can tell nothing.

 

[lordsuperb]

Which ones ? The ones on the hangers ? If they’re not on the customer I can tell nothing.

 

[Toninno]

It’s a text book explanation that many tailors I know just accept. Most tailors will agree with the explanation on face value. I thought the same way for a long time but I questioned it because it seemed contradictory. The result didn’t match the explanation. The more I looked into it and experimented the more I grasped it. This is one area that making a pattern and doing the sewing gives more insight. When you make the changes and then do the sewing the result is more evident. Pattern making is only theory until the sewing brings the realization. Something tangible to evaluate the effect/result.
In edwins explanation he said himself it’s hard to understand because it seems to cause the opposite reaction.
I’ve done the adjustment like Edwin describes but now I don’t. I am happier with the outcome.

Ju

View attachment 1396388

View attachment 1396389

Oh. Ok. The open quarters question. These are regular cut quarters. Not open. But the coat is so taken in in the waist and seat it is pulling the fronts open. You can tell by the plaid the fronts are cut regular. But other than being taken in too much they are technically sound. I like them. Don’t make your tailor take them in so much.
As for the arrow- fronts should be straight. The plaid should be square on a properly cut coat. This goes the direction of the arrow because it’s too tapered. If someone is explaining to you that this is a secret type of cutting called “A crooked coat” they are talking out of their ass.
It also looks like the coat shoulder is cut too snug. Too sloped. It’s hitting your shoulder. This will cause the fronts to cut away also.