Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[UrbanComposition]

Looks good @Crispyj

I realize not everyone can keep bespoke alive these days, but it still makes me happy.

 

[Crispyj]

Looks good @Crispyj

I realize not everyone can keep bespoke alive these days, but it still makes me happy.

Yeah, I don't think people in my age group are too interested in bespoke... Most of my friends if given $3k-$5k will easily jump on Supreme, Gucci, Yeezy, or just weed.

 

[DavidLane]

Hi David,
Don't you worry, I trust Frank's judgement. He had a bolt of Molloy x London Lounge Herringbone Donegal left which I swooped up. I'll trust Michael Alden's taste and color palette for cloth. Just got my muslin fitting. Had to fight tooth and nail to get him to lower the buttoning stance by an inch, but he agreed happily after taking a second look. He said I'll be clearing sidewalks with these shoulders ?
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I worked with him on lowering the buttoning point as well, looks good so far.

-DL

 

[Crispyj]

@DavidLane , have you ever seen Frank make a shoulder that isn't roped? I can't seem to find any of his work where he didn't make roped shoulders. He said ok to no roped shoulders when I mentioned I wasn't leaning towards that.

 

[DavidLane]

@DavidLane , have you ever seen Frank make a shoulder that isn't roped? I can't seem to find any of his work where he didn't make roped shoulders. He said ok to no roped shoulders when I mentioned I wasn't leaning towards that.

Yes on mine (see below). Also something I had to work with him on. He likes the roping because it gives you room to balloon the sleeve head from a high armhole to a full cut sleeve. For me that fullness is very important, as my arms are big, and I love a very high armhole.

Just make sure you are clear about that point. On mine he made them full without the wadding, and then pressed them flat at the tops. There is some roping at the front and back but not in a way that takes away from the shoulders or fit.

-DL

 

[Toninno]

You can get a very clean back without it being super fitted. This is a drape cut.

I think the more important thing is how a jacket looks and feels in real life. Sometimes too much emphasis is put on still photos. I've seen Kotaro's work in person and it looks really good. Has a nice, youthful look to it without being too fashion forward.

You can get a very clean back without it being super fitted. This is a drape cut.

I think the more important thing is how a jacket looks and feels in real life. Sometimes too much emphasis is put on still photos. I've seen Kotaro's work in person and it looks really good. Has a nice, youthful look to it without being too fashion forward.

This is nice ??

 

[NakedYoga]

Old voxsartoria pics, nice.

 

[Despos]

Some context. When that pic was first posted, the discussion was about one piece backs; a back with no center seam.

 

[Toninno]

This is nice ??

This tailor is a true Maestro. I’d love to see the front.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

Under ordinary circumstances, today I would have been in Hoboken for a final fitting with Joseph Genuardi for a grey suit and navy blazer, but it seemed inappropriate, at least, to go through with that appointment. Besides that, today he announced that he is suspending work on suits to sew cloth masks. (I also haven't heard from John Di Pietro in a month, which is probably a good thing under the conditions; I hope that he's keeping well and holed up in his New Jersey home)

 

[classicalthunde]

Hi David,
Don't you worry, I trust Frank's judgement. He had a bolt of Molloy x London Lounge Herringbone Donegal left which I swooped up. I'll trust Michael Alden's taste and color palette for cloth. Just got my muslin fitting. Had to fight tooth and nail to get him to lower the buttoning stance by an inch, but he agreed happily after taking a second look. He said I'll be clearing sidewalks with these shoulders ?
View attachment 1364904
View attachment 1364907 View attachment 1364906 View attachment 1364905

That herringbone looks great! Do you recall how much it weighed, some of the LL stuff is a bit too heavy for me? I like things in the range 500g for tweeds and 300-400g for sportcoats/suits

 

[Crispyj]

That herringbone looks great! Do you recall how much it weighed, some of the LL stuff is a bit too heavy for me? I like things in the range 500g for tweeds and 300-400g for sportcoats/suits

This one is around 400grams I believe.

Frank already has the second fitting almost completed. 4.5" lapels (I usually wear 38R)

 

[classicalthunde]

This one is around 400grams I believe.

Frank already has the second fitting almost completed. 4.5" lapels (I usually wear 38R)
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Ahh, thats a great weight...Does anyone else know where I could aquire a jacket length of it? Unfortunately Frank is out of my budget these days, and his house style is a little strong for tastes (I prefer an Ivy-style trad jacket)

 

[bry2000]

Where are you seeing Frank for appointments (meaning generally, not during shelter in time)? @Crispyj

 

[Crispyj]

Where are you seeing Frank for appointments (meaning generally, not during shelter in time)? @Crispyj

He does "Skype Fittings" (he did a few for European customers). He gets some measurements/photos from me over Instagram dm and ships out the fittings to me. I live in NY state as well so shipping is still within 2-3 days. I think this is his preferred method right now.
Even if there wasn't the chaos going around, I doubt I would drive up to Sacketts Harbor, NY (where his shop is).

This is actually my first time working with Frank. He had a "sale" for two days and I took up the offer.