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Despos

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Lamlana? That fabric can take a beating.
@lordsuerb
Just reread your comment, I misunderstood it.
No, this isn't the lamlana cloth, it's from the Phoenix book but this is a different weave than the majority of the book.
 

Patrick R

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Really? I thought Lamlana was a very soft cloth. Surprised to hear it takes a beating.
This W. Bill is sturdy cloth. Have made 6 or 8 of these for clients.

You’ve made me two. :)
 

Despos

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@Despos

Is that W Bill your favorite for barleycorn cloth?

Any others you recommend? Thanks!
Recommend W. Bill, there are others but not sure what books to suggest with our looking for them. Barleycorns aren't as common as other patterns.
 

aristoi bcn

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W.Bill Lamlana and Harrison's Moonbeam are probably the best winter jacketings out there. More durable and cheaper than cashmere with the same appeal with almost the same hand, better suited than regular tweeds for an urban environment and usable in a broader range of temperatures. W.Phoenix is great too but too lightweight if not living in a mild climate.
 

Flake

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W.Bill Lamlana and Harrison's Moonbeam are probably the best winter jacketings out there. More durable and cheaper than cashmere with the same appeal with almost the same hand, better suited than regular tweeds for an urban environment and usable in a broader range of temperatures. W.Phoenix is great too but too lightweight if not living in a mild climate.
I have a Moonbeam jacket (Steed) that I really enjoy. But this thread suddenly has me thinking I need a barleycorn...
 

lordsuperb

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Really? I thought Lamlana was a very soft cloth. Surprised to hear it takes a beating.
This W. Bill is sturdy cloth. Have made 6 or 8 of these for clients.

Phoenix is 9-10 ounce and the other two books are 10-11 ounce. Is that a big difference in weight?
Given the amount of abuse the jacket has taken my lamlana shows no signs of wear and tear. My 18 oz. flannel suit on the other hand has been worn less and is already showing wear on the elbows.

I’ve never worn the Phoenix bunch but the sample I received seemed better suited for the summer.
 

Despos

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There are two different cloths in the Phoenix book. One has a mill finish and the other a clear finish. The clear finish appears lighter weight but the weight is the same for both. Never thought of this book as summer weight. Mid weight, not summer weight.
 

WillingToLearn

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W Bill
Phoenix
CODE WB14821
285 - 300gms / 9 - 10ozs 100% Pure New Wool (Worsted)

may be only 9-10 ounces but it wears plenty warm. its a 3 season (F-W-early spring) fabric for me in NYC.
 

lordsuperb

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Oh boy, I asked Edwin to send me some samples for summer and received a few from the Phoenix bunch. I think two of samples had a gauze like appearance. Maybe the British sleep on summers in DC.
 

DavidLane

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Just catching up on this thread. @Crispyj if Frank has a recommendation you can take it to the bank that the cloth is good quality. His personal style choices aside, he knows cloth. Ask him which books he likes and go from there. He does lean towards heavy dense cloth.

Derek @dieworkwear is correct, I do have the older brown Donegal from W.Bill, I also have a more recent green Donegal from W.Bill and they are worlds apart in terms of quality, density ect. The newer W.Bill is much looser weave. Its fine enough, but nothing like the older brown piece I had made up which I prefer.

I also have the same Molloy you posted. It is excellent quality, but definitely heavier than both W.Bill's I have. London Lounge has made up a few very nice barleycorn's with Molloy. I agree with @Despos barleycorn is a great pattern. It may be worth reaching out to Alden to see if there are any left. They will be heavy though.

Also check out the Standeven Heritage Twist book: Not sure if it has been "reformulated" or not.

https://standevenfabrics.co.uk/bunches/heritage-twist/

-DL
 

Crispyj

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Just catching up on this thread. @Crispyj if Frank has a recommendation you can take it to the bank that the cloth is good quality. His personal style choices aside, he knows cloth. Ask him which books he likes and go from there. He does lean towards heavy dense cloth.

Derek @dieworkwear is correct, I do have the older brown Donegal from W.Bill, I also have a more recent green Donegal from W.Bill and they are worlds apart in terms of quality, density ect. The newer W.Bill is much looser weave. Its fine enough, but nothing like the older brown piece I had made up which I prefer.

I also have the same Molloy you posted. It is excellent quality, but definitely heavier than both W.Bill's I have. London Lounge has made up a few very nice barleycorn's with Molloy. I agree with @Despos barleycorn is a great pattern. It may be worth reaching out to Alden to see if there are any left. They will be heavy though.

Also check out the Standeven Heritage Twist book: Not sure if it has been "reformulated" or not.

https://standevenfabrics.co.uk/bunches/heritage-twist/

-DL
Hi David,
Don't you worry, I trust Frank's judgement. He had a bolt of Molloy x London Lounge Herringbone Donegal left which I swooped up. I'll trust Michael Alden's taste and color palette for cloth. Just got my muslin fitting. Had to fight tooth and nail to get him to lower the buttoning stance by an inch, but he agreed happily after taking a second look. He said I'll be clearing sidewalks with these shoulders ?
molloyxalden.jpg
fittingf.jpg fittings.jpg fittingb.jpg
 

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