Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Crispyj]

I'd personally go for something soft. Maybe green is your forte? If you're going something heavy and brown I'd look at W. Bill Donegal.

Can't use W.Bill because they are made by Harrison's. Putting it nicely, Frank doesn't like Harrison's ?

I'll probably figure something out with a Fox Fabric, Frank likes them and I like them too.

 

[dieworkwear]

For colder months, just a brown Moon tweed herringbone sc and a navy mini pattern wool sc.
Warmer months Minnis Tobacco Linen, Fox Air Brown gunclub check, navy hopsack.
Ongoing/Upcoming projects: Zegna 14milMil14 green brown glen-plaid, rust Harris Tweed.

So I was thinking the one being made by Frank is going to be for the cooler months, since he likes heavier fabrics. I was thinking a lighter shade of brown since I like to wear darker trousers.

I really like Donegal in the colder months. The nice thing about Donegal is that it's often more tightly woven than your typical spongey Shetland, which I find helps retain the shape of the jacket. A spongey tweed can sometimes bag, and if it's thick and spongey enough, it can look a bit shapeless. With a tighter tweed, you get a sharper and more defined line in terms of the jacket's silhouette. I like spongey tweeds, but sometimes they don't look as nice with something like a drape cut.

Molloy & Sons does really nice Donegals. The plain versions are nice in that they have a bit of a pattern, so you get more visual interest than the plain flannels you posted above. But it's also not such an overwhelming pattern that you have to wonder how it'll look in terms of scale, loudness, color combinations, etc. I prefer their plain Donegals cause they're also lighter weight than their herringbones if I remember correctly. This is their brown version. I believe @DavidLane might have the same fabric.

And a tan version:

 

[Crispyj]

I really like Donegal in the colder months. The nice thing about Donegal is that it's often more tightly woven than your typical spongey Shetland, which I find helps retain the shape of the jacket. A spongey tweed can sometimes bag, and if it's thick and spongey enough, it can look a bit shapeless. With a tighter tweed, you get a sharper and more defined line in terms of the jacket's silhouette. I like spongey tweeds, but sometimes they don't look as nice with something like a drape cut.

Molloy & Sons does really nice Donegals. The plain versions are nice in that they have a bit of a pattern, so you get more visual interest than the plain flannels you posted above. But it's also not such an overwhelming pattern that you have to wonder how it'll look in terms of scale, loudness, color combinations, etc. I prefer their plain Donegals cause they're also lighter weight than their herringbones if I remember correctly. This is their brown version. I believe @DavidLane might have the same fabric.

View attachment 1364757

These are PERFECT. Just what I was looking for! Thank you Derek! I can't seem to find their fabric lists...

 

[dieworkwear]

These are PERFECT. Just what I was looking for! Thank you Derek! I can't seem to find their fabric lists...

Their swatches are on Flickr, but the site seems to be down at the moment. Normally, you'll be able to find them here. I can't remember their prices, unfortunately. They're not super expensive, but also not super cheap. I'd guess something like 100 or 125 GBP per meter.

Molloy & Sons

Explore Molloy & Sons’s 28 photos on Flickr!

www.flickr.com

Magee in England also sells Donegal fabric. They're a little cheaper and softer. Get swatches before you buy, and sometimes the "nubbiness" of the fabric can vary in terms of scale. I think this one is nice, but I find brown sport coats are generally easier to wear than grey if you have a small wardrobe.

Bluestack - Black & White, Salt & Pepper Donegal Tweed Magee 1866

Perfect for jackets, coats, crafting and for light domestic use upholstery this fabulous tweed is available to buy by the metre. The designs are inspired by the colours of the land and seascapes surrounding Donegal. All tweeds are woven in our m .... €1.50.High Quality Clothing and Accessories.

www.magee1866.com

Here are two Molloys and one Magee. The Molloys are on the bottom. The Magee is the middle swatch laying on top

 

[Despos]

I don't like houndstooth.

That's not houndstooth, it's a Shepherds Check. Do you like Shepherd Checks?

My favorite textured cloth for jackets is a barley corn. Easy to wear casually or with a tie. Easy to match trouser textures. Doesn't look like a seasonal garment as much as those donegals do. Would not wait for Fox, there are better cloths to pick from.

 

[Crispyj]

That's not houndstooth, it's a Shepherds Check. Do you like Shepherd Checks?

I am blindplease ignore that noob comment. But no, I do not like Shepard Checks/Houndstooth.

I am deciding between these two.

 

[heldentenor]

Second.

 

[Despos]

I am blindplease ignore that noob comment. But no, I do not like Shepard Checks/Houndstooth.

I am deciding between these two.
View attachment 1364782

Neither one, they're boring

 

[dieworkwear]

I am blindplease ignore that noob comment. But no, I do not like Shepard Checks/Houndstooth.

I am deciding between these two.
View attachment 1364782

The bottom fabric you posted is the same as my tan jacket above (#0701 47). I like it, but don't wear it as often as the dark brown Donegal. I don't think the color shows up accurately on their Flickr page, so get a swatch.

 

[Crispyj]

The bottom fabric you posted is the same as my tan jacket above (#0701 47). I like it, but don't wear it as often as the dark brown Donegal. I don't think the color shows up accurately on their Flickr page, so get a swatch.

Thank you for the warning. I'll see if I can get in contact with them through the lock down.

 

[Despos]

Mini barley corn from W. Bill. Mid weight. In the mid brown color you referenced earlier.
You can wear lighter trousers with this color or darker trousers. They both work and make the jacket more versatile

 

[dieworkwear]

Thank you for the warning. I'll see if I can get in contact with them through the lock down.

I sold a length of this bread-crust colored Donegal to someone many years ago (Molloy pattern #0702 04). They ended up taking the length to Frank. You can see progress on the coat at Frank's Instagram. I found the color a bit too light for me, but if the coat is still sitting around Frank's workshop, maybe you can check it out in person.

 

[Crispyj]

I sold a length of this bread-crust colored Donegal to someone many years ago (Molloy pattern #0702 04). They ended up taking the length to Frank. You can see progress on the coat at Frank's Instagram. I found the color a bit too light for me, but if the coat is still sitting around Frank's workshop, maybe you can check it out in person.





View attachment 1364784

I am actually 5 hours drive away from Frank.

Mini barley corn from W. Bill. Mid weight. In the mid brown color you referenced earlier.
You can wear lighter trousers with this color or darker trousers. They both work and make the jacket more versatile

View attachment 1364783

That looks awesome! But everything is closed and I don't think I can get in contact with W. Bill. Fox is temporarily closed until whenever as well... You guys selling any fabrics that can be shipped and willing to ship? Please don't risk you lives.

I think the lock down is driving me nuts. My parents also decided to drive back from Florida tonight so I can't browse StyleForum all day beginning tomorrow...

 

[lordsuperb]

Mini barley corn from W. Bill. Mid weight. In the mid brown color you referenced earlier.
You can wear lighter trousers with this color or darker trousers. They both work and make the jacket more versatile

View attachment 1364783

Lamlana? That fabric can take a beating.

 

[Despos]

Lamlana? That fabric can take a beating.

Really? I thought Lamlana was a very soft cloth. Surprised to hear it takes a beating.
This W. Bill is sturdy cloth. Have made 6 or 8 of these for clients.