Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

@Flake and @PatrickR

My posse!

 

[emptym]

Thanks a lot for the thoughts, guys. I probably like B best too, but I like them all. I mainly posted them because I recently received pair A and was not super happy about how the pleats opened up. I mentioned it to the tailor at an earlier fitting, and he let out about a quarter inch from each side. At our recent meeting, he first said the flaring would be corrected by pressing, then he said that it was an intentional style choice. I may try pressing the crease in a different place to see if that changes things.

The tailor is used to reverse pleats, so I'll probably go with that next time. Would be a brave new world for me though, as I've liked forward pleats since I was a kid/teen in the 80s. In fact, I don't know if I've ever owned a pair with reverse pleats... unless if you count Girbaud or Z Cavaricci pairs, which had pleats facing every which way.

 

[bry2000]

For odd trousers, I prefer reverse pleats.

 

[Flake]

@Flake and @PatrickR

My posse!

Ha! That’s because you know my answer when it comes to pleats will always be, whatever Chris recommends for the given fabric and intended use/look

 

[classicalthunde]

Has anyone commissioned anything frlm Sartorial Formosa at one of their trunk shows? Or any other traveling Italian/Neapolitan tailors who (in normal times) are doing NYC trunk shows?

 

[Crispyj]

I Sarti Italiani came around last month to NYC. Next trip will be September or October I think. Prices are still €1000 CMT for a suit before price bump end of year.

 

[dieworkwear]

Has anyone commissioned anything frlm Sartorial Formosa at one of their trunk shows? Or any other traveling Italian/Neapolitan tailors who (in normal times) are doing NYC trunk shows?

I have stuff from Solito, NSM, and a suit on the way from I Sarti Italiani. I don't have the Sarti suit yet, but I liked how it looked at the final fitting. One sleeve cuff just needs to be let out. The rest looked good to me.

NSM uses different cutters, so it's hard to characterize their work, as it depends on the cutter. Solito does nice work, but he uses very little padding in the shoulder, so you have to deal with the usual narrow shoulder issue. I think Sarti is more flexible. If you're looking for something a little fuller, Sarti might be a better option. I haven't worn the suit they made for me yet, but I have been thinking about putting a semi-big order on their next trip.

Of the three I've used so far, I think I like Sarti the best, then Solito. NSM is a bit too inconsistent, in my experience, although Mina is a very nice person.

I Sarti Italiani came around last month to NYC. Next trip will be September or October I think. Prices are still €1000 CMT for a suit before price bump end of year.

I think they're a little more expensive than €1000 for a suit. I paid a little over $2,000 for mine and I used cotton. But they're more affordable than most.

 

[Crispyj]

I think they're a little more expensive than €1000 for a suit. I paid a little over $2,000 for mine and I used cotton. But they're more affordable than most.

Pretty sure it's 1000 Euros for suit without fabric, unless I am actually getting old like you .

 

[dieworkwear]

Pretty sure it's 1000 Euros for suit without fabric, unless I am actually getting old like you .
View attachment 1360563

Just looked at my bill and it's €1659, but that includes fabric.

 

[Crispyj]

Just looked at my bill and it's €1659, but that includes fabric.

I paid around 1900 euros. Rip my bank account. I got a jacket in Zegna fabric and trousers in Drapers 4ply.
Also I am curious about the fabric you picked for your suit. What mill is it from and how dark is the taupe? If you don't mind me asking.

Oh right, also The Anthology guys are coming to NYC over summer, hopefully. Their house style is pretty Italian, almost Florentine. Can't wait to try them out! Getting a jacket in this fabric.

 

[Crispyj]

Just looked at my bill and it's €1659, but that includes fabric.

I totally forgot about handwork up charge of 100 euros...

 

[lordsuperb]

Has anyone commissioned anything frlm Sartorial Formosa at one of their trunk shows? Or any other traveling Italian/Neapolitan tailors who (in normal times) are doing NYC trunk shows?

They make a nice jacket but like any traveling tailor there will be mistakes from time to time.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Well, my dear @Crispyj,

Your jacket was / is not in "a" Zegna fabric, this is 14Milmil14: its wool composition is 14 microns / S' 180 + linen, silk, cashmere, all at the EZ quality!

Mind you that when the price will be forgotten, the pleasure of the garments will still be there!

Enjoy them in health!

Dimitris

 

[dieworkwear]

I paid around 1900 euros. Rip my bank account. I got a jacket in Zegna fabric and trousers in Drapers 4ply.
Also I am curious about the fabric you picked for your suit. What mill is it from and how dark is the taupe? If you don't mind me asking.

Oh right, also The Anthology guys are coming to NYC over summer, hopefully. Their house style is pretty Italian, almost Florentine. Can't wait to try them out! Getting a jacket in this fabric.
View attachment 1360564

Fabric is a 98% cotton 2% elastane from Zegna. They sent me this photo of the suit

 

[Crispyj]

Well, my dear @Crispyj,

Your jacket was / is not in "a" Zegna fabric, this is 14Milmil14: its wool composition is 14 microns / S' 180 + linen, silk, cashmere, all at the EZ quality!

Mind you that when the price will be forgotten, the pleasure of the garments will still be there!

Enjoy them in health!

Dimitris

Shhhhhh, no one needs to know that. By the way, thank you @Bespoke DJP for sharing all your knowledge regarding the fabrics, I am still a newb.


@dieworkwear, that looks amazing! Might get a pair of trousers made in that.