Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Thomson]

Have you considered it may be the shoe and the way it fits? Does the same thing happen when you wear a different shoe?

It is a standard dress shoe (Edward Green on 202 last) so yes, I had thought about it but pretty much ruled it out. I was wearing different shoes at the first fitting though. Will try and wear a different shoe tomorrow (the problem being that most of my shoes are 202 EGs).

 

[Thomson]

New tailor? It’s not your job to diagnose the problem.

Fair enough, let's put it down to my curious nature.

 

[imatlas]

Is the fabric or the cuff “reinforcement” getting caught by your sock?

 

[The Chai]

All my pents have cuff reinforcements...I've never had this problem

 

[Thomson]

Is the fabric or the cuff “reinforcement” getting caught by your sock?

No, the trouser leg is wide enough and does not stick to my socks.

 

[papado]

Hi everyone,

A quick question. I have had two bespoke trousers made for me, one in Crispaire and another in a heavier Scabal flannel.

The first pair tended to get stuck on the heel cup / back of my dress shoes, so that it would ride up at the back. My tailor thought that it is mainly an issue of the length so that for the second pair of trousers she increased it a bit. However the issue has persisted. It doesn’t happen all the time but often enough.

She thinks it may have to do with how the trousers are (and here she used a technical term which I think means how they are) ironed. Other than that they are the best fitting trousers I have ever had.

The trousers have a leg opening of 20cm and are finished with some kind of reinforcement inside which I think English tailors don’t tend to use. Also turn-ups.
I suspect I have the same issue with some MTM trousers but never been picky enough to care (also they don’t have turn-ups so it is maybe less obvious). I also have a suit from W&S and the suit trousers don’t exhibit the same issue - but also don’t fit quite as well.


Would anyone have a steer as to what might be the problem?

Sounds like it could be the issue with the shaping/ironing however could it have to do with the back rise and in essence the trousers are not sitting properly in the back drooping down which then collapses the rest of the leg to that the back of the trouser moving towards your leg and hitting the shoe back as opposed to hanging straight down?

 

[paborden]

By chance would anyone know what this type of lining treatment is called in Italian?

 

[yanagi]

By chance would anyone know what this type of lining treatment is called in Italian?

Half-lined? I believe it's mezza fodera.

 

[dan'l]

That would be the literal translation and for sure your Italian tailor will understand. But there are two ways of executing mezza fordera: with lining on the fronts or with self-lining on the fronts. The pic above is the latter and here is an example of the former (not my pic):

In these cases I find it best to just show examples of which execution you prefer, to avoid any misunderstanding.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I've heard my Neapolitan tailor referring to the the self-lining as "moste" lining or something like this.

 

[ValidusLA]

Not sure if this is right thread. Wife just gave me these buttons as a gift. Going to do a DB.

Any ideas besides Navy? I have two navy DB blazers currently.

 

[Simon A]

Not sure if this is right thread. Wife just gave me these buttons as a gift. Going to do a DB.

Any ideas besides Navy? I have two navy DB blazers currently. View attachment 1343751

Rifle Green!

 

[UrbanComposition]

Welp, just in case you have a traveling tailor from Italy...

I just heard from I Sarti Italiani that some European countries are blocking Italians from entering, or quarantining them for 14 days due to the outbreak of the coronavirus in northern Italy. So far this hasn't affected Salvo (he stops in Munich, and so far Germany hasn't issued any travel restrictions), but it might, so he may try to postpone the trip to avoid being in airport limbo. He was thinking May, since that'll give everyone enough time to mellow out. I'll keep everyone posted.

If you have an Italian tailor scheduled soon, you might want to check & see if their flight is still on. So far it's just Paris and London, so if they are flying there for a stopover, there might be a delay...

 

[Dannefalk]

Welp, just in case you have a traveling tailor from Italy...

I just heard from I Sarti Italiani that some European countries are blocking Italians from entering, or quarantining them for 14 days due to the outbreak of the coronavirus in northern Italy. So far this hasn't affected Salvo (he stops in Munich, and so far Germany hasn't issued any travel restrictions), but it might, so he may try to postpone the trip to avoid being in airport limbo. He was thinking May, since that'll give everyone enough time to mellow out. I'll keep everyone posted.

If you have an Italian tailor scheduled soon, you might want to check & see if their flight is still on. So far it's just Paris and London, so if they are flying there for a stopover, there might be a delay...

Oh! Got to check! Thanks for the heads up

 

[WillingToLearn]

I texted with NsM today and believe Mina is due to arrive in NYC tomorrow. It's usually a direct flight from Naples, so hopefully that is far enough South...