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Mahatma Jawndi
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General question(s) for the group - What percentage of your sport coats and suits do you get partially lined (either half or quarter lined)? What sort of criteria do you use in making the decision to go partially lined (is it for specific weaves/cloth weights, or based on intended season of wear)?

Depends on the order, but very generally speaking, partially lined for summer stuff, fully lined for winter stuff.
 

Mr. Six

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^ Pretty much the same. But I have a couple of jackets that I like to wear in shoulder season that I got partially lined even though they lean more fall-winter. That way they're a little more comfortable if the temps get higher.
 

aristoi bcn

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General question(s) for the group - What percentage of your sport coats and suits do you get partially lined (either half or quarter lined)? What sort of criteria do you use in making the decision to go partially lined (is it for specific weaves/cloth weights, or based on intended season of wear)?

Unlined only cotton and linen (which normally means quarter lined).

I tried to convince my tailor to made my Mock Leno and other Frescos unlined without success.
 

WillingToLearn

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@gabako

Upper sleeve looks tight in that back photo. You are clearly a muscular guy, you'll want some extra room / drape where the chest meets the arm. Your fitness is actually a real challenge for tailors...
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I tried to convince my tailor to made my Mock Leno and other Frescos unlined without success.

when that guy is back and asks for an unlined mock leno or fresco

1326898
 

bry2000

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The first fitting of my first ever bespoke suit. Harrison’s Cru Classe 12oz I think. Obviously a bit tight across the back there. Is there anything to look out for at this stage or does it seem okay?

View attachment 1326463 View attachment 1326464
The first fitting is for the tailor to do his thing. You as a customer can infer very little as to how the final product will turn out from the first fitting.

As long as you worked through the details with him ahead of time (ie, SB vs DB, pockets, etc.), just relax and let the tailor do his job. The last thing you should do is ask a bunch of Internet randos how the first fitting looks.
 

ericgereghty

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Unlined only cotton and linen (which normally means quarter lined).

I tried to convince my tailor to made my Mock Leno and other Frescos unlined without success.
Bespoke clothing is such an interesting world. I get not wanting to be an insufferable ass, but I can’t imagine accepting something that is not what I wanted.
 

Bromley

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Bespoke clothing is such an interesting world. I get not wanting to be an insufferable ass, but I can’t imagine accepting something that is not what I wanted.
This is a really fraught and complicated gray area in any "custom made" industry. From both sides. As a customer, paying a lot of money for something that's not exactly what you had in mind is not good. As a tailor, neither is investing a huge amount of labor and resources into making a product that isn't exactly what somebody had hoped for.

What if a suit technically fits you well and your specific requests have been met, but the overall style isn't what you were after? Do you request a remake? Do you accept this as a lesson in a larger overall bespoke process? What if you'd saved up your money for a long time for this one very special piece of clothing?

What if you're a tailor who made a suit and someone brings an issue like this to you? The suit fits, but it just isn't what they thought it would be-- the shoulders a little firmer and wider than they'd hoped, the style more old-man than had been discussed. As the tailor, you did your work and everything looks right to you, but there was some kind of greater failure of communication in terms of style. Your margins are small, and you'll lose a considerable amount of money doing complicated alterations or a remake. Do you deny the request and leave a customer unhappy, or do you suffer the financial hit and fix the problem?

Think of how often this kind of situation must occur in any "custom-made" industry. People who do this kind of work are insane.
 

Bromley

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Speaking of these things, what's up with tailors who can't/won't make something half-lined? Elevate your craft!
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I can't imagine caring enough about the lining to send something back to the tailor. Steed once delivered a summer sport coat to me that was fully lined when I asked for it to be partially lined. Edwin said that he thinks the lining makes a very small difference nowadays in terms of warmth, and asked me to wear it for a while. He said if I didn't like it, he would fix it. But after having worn it for years, I don't know if I can tell the difference.

I think you just have to be a reasonable person. Sometimes mistakes are big and you should ask for a remake. Sometimes I see guys get custom clothes and they expect an unreasonable amount of perfection out of what's essentially a handmade object. In some ways, getting something that's slightly imperfect is part of the point. It humanizes the object and makes it distinct from perfectly stamped out machine-made goods. Granted, sometimes an item is so bad, you have to ask for a remake (or in rare cases a refund). But I think expecting perfection is kind of unrealistic, if not missing the point.
 

ericgereghty

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If I ask (and pay) for X, I expect X, unless explicitly told otherwise on the front end. I’d feel this way about something I’m paying $5 for, much less thousands. I can’t fathom any other field in which something like this would be tolerated.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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If I ask (and pay) for X, I expect X, unless explicitly told otherwise on the front end. I’d feel this way about something I’m paying $5 for, much less thousands. I can’t fathom any other field in which something like this would be tolerated.

I had a burrito today and they forgot the guac.
 

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