Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Texasmade]

I never liked Simon C's Huntsman suit. I think he got it at the time when they were really struggling with management and a lot of people left.

 

[lordsuperb]

As you well note, Salmon's jacket is good in length but the button stance is a bit on the higher side.

Only you will be able to assess whether it is worth spending the extra money in either MTM or bespoke. In my case, when I tried a good tailor for the first time I discovered that I would never go back to RTW/MTM.

And so is the case when people spend money on a good tailor and realize they'll never do bespoke again.

 

[jonathanS]

I never liked Simon C's Huntsman suit. I think he got it at the time when they were really struggling with management and a lot of people left.

Simon’s suit from huntsman is awful. It’s an illustration of how bespoke can go wrong. But it’s unclear if he paid for it, so he got what he paid for, I guess.

 

[dieworkwear]

As you well note, Salmon's jacket is good in length but the button stance is a bit on the higher side.

I dont think his button stance is on the high side. If you compare it to the check, it's right at his waist. I think people think it's on the high side because of the camera angle.

IMO, the issue with @dauster's coat is that it's a bit short. When you shorten a jacket, you widen the silhouette. You can see this in Liverano coats, which are quite short. Combined with the shoulder, the silhouette ends up looking round.

If you shorten a jacket with strong, padded shoulders, I think the silhouette just ends up looking boxy. As opposed to traditional riding coats, which are elongating.

I also don't really like the closed quarters and slanted hip pockets, but I realize these preferences are a bit iGenty

 

[dauster]

As you well note, Salmon's jacket is good in length but the button stance is a bit on the higher side.

Only you will be able to assess whether it is worth spending the extra money in either MTM or bespoke. In my case, when I tried a good tailor for the first time I discovered that I would never go back to RTW/MTM.

In this case I’m fine with it but the below quote from Simon’s article makes a lot of sense now and justifies my high button stance not that it makes it look better, nevertheless interesting:

“While most modern tailoring styles originate in British riding clothing, it is particularly easy to see those origins here. That single, high button would have made it much easier for the jacket to remain fastened when its wearer was on horseback”.

 

[dieworkwear]

In this case I’m fine with it but the below quote from Simon’s article makes a lot of sense now and justifies my high button stance not that it makes it look better, nevertheless interesting:

“While most modern tailoring styles originate in British riding clothing, it is particularly easy to see those origins here. That single, high button would have made it much easier for the jacket to remain fastened when its wearer was on horseback”.

Maybe I'm not seeing it. How is this a high button stance? Compare the placement to the check. The camera angle plus the curved line makes the placement look higher than it is, I think.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Look at Simon in the following pictures, he's wearing the same shirt (his everyday denim), looking at the number of buttons that are shown you can notice that the Huntsman jacket has a higher buttoning point than allows to show 4 shirt buttons while the below jackets easily show 5.

Richard James

Eduardo de Simone

Huntsman

 

[dauster]

Maybe I'm not seeing it. How is this a high button stance? Compare the placement to the check. The camera angle plus the curved line makes the placement look higher than it is, I think.

View attachment 1324870

You could be right not sure on this but for me this whole exercise is more about learning and getting reassured on how to look at suit/ jackets and judge if it fits well or not. Before this forum I thought a bunch of my suits looked great and in reality they looked terrible. Slowly making progress!!!

on this note, can anybody tell me where the wrinkles in the back of my suit come from?

 

[bdavro23]

Can you guys please stop posting pictures of Simon's jacket? I'm sure if you were in the room it would maybe make sense why they chose that cloth, but I simply cant imagine picking it on purpose.

Also, am I the only one who thinks the pattern matching of the sleeves is atrocious?

 

[Texasmade]

Can you guys please stop posting pictures of Simon's jacket? I'm sure if you were in the room it would maybe make sense why they chose that cloth, but I simply cant imagine picking it on purpose.

Also, am I the only one who thinks the pattern matching of the sleeves is atrocious?

The pattern matching on the sleeves isn’t the only thing that’s terrible. I think the whole jacket in general isn’t great. Simon should go back to Huntsman and use the current head cutter to get a more accurate view of how Huntsman currently is.

 

[dauster]

Can you guys please stop posting pictures of Simon's jacket? I'm sure if you were in the room it would maybe make sense why they chose that cloth, but I simply cant imagine picking it on purpose.

Also, am I the only one who thinks the pattern matching of the sleeves is atrocious?

Sorry I ruined your day it was more about the button stance

 

[Punt]

Guess it is just too tight... he should have allowed more room both on the shoulder blades as in the waist.

 

[Despos]

Remember the pictures when you first tried this jacket, everything was very tight. Seems to be tension across the back and blades. Photos can distort and show things that aren’t really as bad as the picture shows. See if it looks the same from a 3 way mirror. The trouser is definitely tight. The front pockets are gaping and the tension over the hips created a horizontal roll in the cloth. You see it in the side view.
Doesn’t Simon experiment with makers about proportions and styling? Think that’s a difficult cloth pattern. Hard to make it look good. I would have moved The oversized patch pockets back from the vertical line to avoid the distortion of the plaid. Don’t think the high gorge ever looks right on his frame.

 

[reidd]

I don't find anything particularly wrong with Simon's Huntsman. Certainly nothing technically incorrect about it. Maybe yes the button stance is a bit high for what I would like but I think it works OK with the intention of that suit.. I believe it was a full shooting suit correct? I also think the Huntsman shoulder works better for him than many of the other makers he has used. Also the plaid is kinda awesome, especially for a real hunting garment.

 

[DavidLane]

I have had a few single button front jackets done at this point, and the placement is more critical than 2 or 3 button jackets. On Crompton's coat the stance looks higher because its exaggerated by the lack of a buttonhole below the buttoning point. The pattern of the cloth is an issue as well, had the check been placed so the buttoning point were halfway between the crossing pattern, it would have looked better and more balanced.

-DL