Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[lordsuperb]

haha maybe I was insane to think that dropping even $3 grand on a suit is a bit too much. I always felt guilty with my occasional splurge for some higher end RTW clothing at $1-1.5K price range.

I dunno, I wonder if there are really enough quantity of people willing to drop 7 to 8 grand on a suit in this day and age, to sustain the business model for these higher end bespoke houses. I personally would never spend that much dough on a suit, unless I am a multi-millionaire and money is no object. I can't help but think about the opportunity costs. Then again, I work in finance and am a pretty good investor, so I know what I can accomplish with that $7-8k as an investment seed money. Just $5k invested in some AMZN stock 10 years ago would be worth high six figures today...

I don’t mean to sound elitist but you won’t like the results at your max price point. Just save your money until your in the price range of your desired tailor. I would check out Davies and Son for a proper fitting structured suit. If you want the look that inspired Tom Ford I would go with Edward Sexton.

 

[ThinkDerm]

haha maybe I was insane to think that dropping even $3 grand on a suit is a bit too much. I always felt guilty with my occasional splurge for some higher end RTW clothing at $1-1.5K price range.

I dunno, I wonder if there are really enough quantity of people willing to drop 7 to 8 grand on a suit in this day and age, to sustain the business model for these higher end bespoke houses. I personally would never spend that much dough on a suit, unless I am a multi-millionaire and money is no object. I can't help but think about the opportunity costs. Then again, I work in finance and am a pretty good investor, so I know what I can accomplish with that $7-8k as an investment seed money. Just $5k invested in some AMZN stock 10 years ago would be worth high six figures today...

What are your stock tips?

 

[Posh Gentleman]

What are your stock tips?

Hi. My best stock tip would be to get yourself interested in investing, and get in the game and gradually hone in your "style" and conviction. Just like clothing, there are many different investing strategies / styles that may appeal to you, based on what your goals are and other factors. (age, etc) Don't chase "fad" (pot stocks come to mind) or chase stocks that you intend to "flip" where your intent is to sell and bounce after a quick 10-15% profit. I only buy stocks I would be happy to hold for next 10 to 20 years. This has never failed me.

My approach is to evaluate the list of companies that I think will be in a dominant position in their respective industry vertical, 5, 10, 15 years from today. This is somewhat a subjective exercise. Then I drill down to their financials, most importantly free cash flow margin, net retention rate, revenue growth, and revenue stickiness. Don't buy or sell a stock in large quantity all at once, but dollar cost average over time.

For what it's worth, my biggest winners in my portfolio as of today has been Mastercard, Visa, and Microsoft.

 

[Posh Gentleman]

I don’t mean to sound elitist but you won’t like the results at your max price point. Just save your money until your in the price range of your desired tailor. I would check out Davies and Son for a proper fitting structured suit. If you want the look that inspired Tom Ford I would go with Edward Sexton.

Hmm thanks for the response. I will check out Sexton. Are they within my price range?

I make pretty good income so if I really wanted to, I could easily afford a Huntsman suit.. but I just don't think it's worth the price. I admit this is a very subjective topic, but I don't believe in committing ~10k in a depreciating asset.

 

[Texasmade]

Hmm thanks for the response. I will check out Sexton. Are they within my price range?

I make pretty good income so if I really wanted to, I could easily afford a Huntsman suit.. but I just don't think it's worth the price. I admit this is a very subjective topic, but I don't believe in committing ~10k in a depreciating asset.

Don't look at it as an asset. It's more of a hobby to enjoy. I didn't spend all that money on my bespoke items thinking I was going to make money off of them. I did it because I enjoy the craftsmanship and the process.

 

[Posh Gentleman]

If you like a structured suit, and want to stay within that aesthetic, you may want to check in with Chittleborough & Morgan. They're one of the descendants of the Tommy Nutter look, which is one of the inspirations for Tom Ford's line.

Another option is Edward Sexton's offshore bespoke. There, the pattern is cut in-house, but the making process is done in China. The pattern is also adjusted, although by hand, off a block pattern, rather than drafted from scratch. If you have a very difficult figure, this may pose a problem, but from your description, it sounds like you fit well into RTW. The other difference for Sexton's offshore bespoke is that it comes with one fitting rather than the typical three. I don't remember their prices offhand, but it's roughly half the price of their usual full in-house bespoke service.

The one downside to the offshore bespoke is that the block patterns are a bit tamer to fit a wider audience. So if you look up photos of Edward Sexton's work, you may see some very dramatic cuts that aren't possible through offshore bespoke. If, however, you want something bespoke but a little closer to contemporary styling, that may work for you.

The problem with trying to find an affordable, structured bespoke suit is that it puts you in the London area, which typically comes with higher costs (as labor is more expensive). If you use a Sicilian or Neapolitan company, it's much easier to get a bespoke suit for $3,000 or so, but they're almost all some variation of a soft-shouldered style. If you're interested in exploring that, however, I'm currently using I Sarti Italiani. I can't remember the exact price, but I paid something like $2,500 for a cotton suit. Price may be a little higher for wool. I'm still getting my fittings, so can't comment on their work, but what I've seen on other people looks nice. I'd say it's a little more structured than your average Neapolitan cut.

As someone else mentioned above, Steed is another option. I wouldn't compare them to Tom Ford or RLPL though. They're not as soft as some Neapolitan companies, but it's a soft English drape cut. Depending on your taste, that could also work. They have a MTM service. Check the Anderson & Sheppard thread on this board for examples of their work.

wow, thanks for this comprehensive reply. You sir, have lots of knowledge and you seem to be on top of your game.

I will check out Sarti Italiani. If I can't make it work with my budget, then so be it and I am willing to explore different taste / styles. Much appreciated! Will be sure to stop by and ask follow up questions later.. I will start studying their cut / styles.

 

[Posh Gentleman]

Don't look at it as an asset. It's more of a hobby to enjoy. I didn't spend all that money on my bespoke items thinking I was going to make money off of them. I did it because I enjoy the craftsmanship and the process.

True. But I have worked with many coworkers / managers that are utterly incompetent in managing their finances and have nothing saved up when they're in late thirties / forties, despite making deep into six figures. My ex-boss from my last job makes over $500k a year and has no money saved up. He's 42 years old. He keeps on buying expensive crap he doesn't even use / enjoy often.

I guess anything is fine in moderation, but I got the impression that these bespoke suit tailors are no where near that 'moderation' threshold I am comfortable with.

 

[dieworkwear]

True. But I have worked with many coworkers / managers that are utterly incompetent in managing their finances and have nothing saved up when they're in late thirties / forties, despite making deep into six figures. My ex-boss from my last job makes over $500k a year and has no money saved up. He's 42 years old. He keeps on buying expensive crap he doesn't even use / enjoy often.

I guess anything is fine in moderation, but I got the impression that these bespoke suit tailors are no where near that 'moderation' threshold I am comfortable with.

Think of these things as ways to impress people online that you'll never meet and would be vaguely horrified if you ever bumped into.

 

[R.O. Thornhill]

Chittleborough & Morgan are great. But their suits are around £6k nowadays. Wouldn’t necessarily start there...

Kilgour used to have an offshore bespoke process that was pretty reasonable, and they construct a serious shoulder. Not sure if they still have that option though

 

[Alan Bee]

True. But I have worked with many coworkers / managers that are utterly incompetent in managing their finances and have nothing saved up when they're in late thirties / forties, despite making deep into six figures. My ex-boss from my last job makes over $500k a year and has no money saved up. He's 42 years old. He keeps on buying expensive crap he doesn't even use / enjoy often.

I guess anything is fine in moderation, but I got the impression that these bespoke suit tailors are no where near that 'moderation' threshold I am comfortable with.

@Posh Gentleman

Mr. Expert Investment Advisor,

How about Invest in yourself? Create something valuable. Create a product with your own talent and life. Let other people worry about investing and speculating on your ideas and products. Thats the best advice Warren Buffet gives but which never gets talked about.

You will never make alpha chasing other people’s ideas in the stock market with your savings.

The only people who make serious money on the stock market are the brokers peddling the stuff. Most others are simply mugs. I know ...

How long have you been at this again??

Alan Bee

 

[smittycl]

So I love suits and I have a bunch of RTW high end suits, most of them Ralph Lauren black / purple label suits that I got on hefty discounts. (60-70% off retail, all new) I am a huge fan of RLPL due to it being the best fit for my body shape, off the rack.

It's been a while since my last suit purchase.. maybe 3 years? This year, I was looking to do some bespoke work, to up my suiting game. I like structured shoulders. I checked out some tailoring houses with the cut I am interested in.. the Huntsman's and other SR tailors that travel to NYC. Holy cow.. I was quoted $8-9 grand for a 2 piece suit. The hell?? You can buy a freaking Rolex Submariner for that money, and with the Rolex, my "investment" won't depreciate much if at all, unlike these ridiculously priced clothes.

Are there more reasonably priced bespoke tailors that I should look into? I am based in NYC and would love some suggestions! $3k is my max budget.

Why not try an MTM option first?

 

[Posh Gentleman]

@Posh Gentleman

Mr. Expert Investment Advisor,

How about Invest in yourself? Create something valuable. Create a product with your own talent and life. Let other people worry about investing and speculating on your ideas and products. Thats the best advice Warren Buffet gives but which never gets talked about.

You will never make alpha chasing other people’s ideas in the stock market with your savings.

The only people who make serious money on the stock market are the brokers peddling the stuff. Most others are simply mugs. I know ...

How long have you been at this again??

Alan Bee

This is utterly false. You can make boatloads of money chasing stocks derived from "other people's ideas". All it takes is you keep investing for a pretty long time and not do anything...

hell, you don't even have to have an idea to make money in stock market - that's called Index funds - and lots of people have got rich off this.

"How long have you been at this again??"

Not relevant. But I work in a finance company and have a CFA so I do know a thing or two about markets / investing..

 

[fassbinder]

haha maybe I was insane to think that dropping even $3 grand on a suit is a bit too much. I always felt guilty with my occasional splurge for some higher end RTW clothing at $1-1.5K price range.

I dunno, I wonder if there are really enough quantity of people willing to drop 7 to 8 grand on a suit in this day and age, to sustain the business model for these higher end bespoke houses. I personally would never spend that much dough on a suit, unless I am a multi-millionaire and money is no object. I can't help but think about the opportunity costs. Then again, I work in finance and am a pretty good investor, so I know what I can accomplish with that $7-8k as an investment seed money. Just $5k invested in some AMZN stock 10 years ago would be worth high six figures today...

honestly i would consider changing your name. you dont sound very posh.

 

[Posh Gentleman]

honestly i would consider changing your name. you dont sound very posh.

hey don't take things personal. grow some thick skin. be open to diff perspectives and viewpoints. grow up.

If I don't come off as posh to you, then too bad. I only care about being posh in front of my social circle and especially my wife!

 

[Alan Bee]

This is utterly false. You can make boatloads of money chasing stocks derived from "other people's ideas". All it takes is you keep investing for a pretty long time and not do anything...

hell, you don't even have to have an idea to make money in stock market - that's called Index funds - and lots of people have got rich off this.

"How long have you been at this again??"

Not relevant. But I work in a finance company and have a CFA so I do know a thing or two about markets / investing..

Ok Sir, shall we take this outside to Motleyfool.com Forum where you can lecture me on how to "chase stocks derived from other peoples ideas without really having any ideas of your own"?

This is a clothing forum not a day traders nest or stock picking website.

Alan Bee