Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[classicalthunde]

All that sounds pretty classic to me. I would probably go with patch pockets, but flapped also works and is arguably the more tasteful choice anyway.

Cuff buttons seem like a personal choice. Are you doing an actual blazer with gold buttons?

i want to err on the side of being conservative as I'm looking at this to fill into the gap between my (relatively) casual tweed sport coats and shy of a full on lounge suit, something that I could wear for a christening/rehearsal dinner/daytime wedding/holiday party, etc.

yea, I actually have my fathers gold buttons from his old Brooks Brothers blazer (probably bought somewhere between 80-90) that I want to re-use. they're not particularly fancy or valuable, but i think its a nice sentiment and fits the aesthetic. Plus if I find the gold buttons pigeon-hole the jacket too much, I can always see about swapping them out for something else down the road

 

[dieworkwear]

i want to err on the side of being conservative as I'm looking at this to fill into the gap between my (relatively) casual tweed sport coats and shy of a full on lounge suit, something that I could wear for a christening/rehearsal dinner/daytime wedding/holiday party, etc.

yea, I actually have my fathers gold buttons from his old Brooks Brothers blazer (probably bought somewhere between 80-90) that I want to re-use. they're not particularly fancy or valuable, but i think its a nice sentiment and fits the aesthetic. Plus if I find the gold buttons pigeon-hole the jacket too much, I can always see about swapping them out for something else down the road

My only advice would be to be very specific with your tailor if you get two-button cuffs. Maybe even provide photos and measurements. I find tailors sometimes assume you just mean you want two buttons like they'd be laid on a four-button cuff. But if you want that Brooks/ J. Press config, you have to tell them to space them apart just so.

 

[jonathanS]

I had one commission that went so wrong, I demanded a refund. But you know ... ease into it.

@dieworkwear How did that conversation go? How wrong was it & what was the tailor's reaction? Did you get your refund?

 

[dieworkwear]

@dieworkwear How did that conversation go? How wrong was it & what was the tailor's reaction? Did you get your refund?

It was a pair of shoes and I got my refund.

 

[Dannefalk]

Psyching myself up to go into my next fitting, channeling famous billionaire tyrants in order to achieve the best results. ****-- jacket is too tight. How would Steve Jobs handle this? I smash a lamp on the floor, insult the tailor's wife, his entire lineage. I demand satisfaction. I am a business man and a gentleman. There are other ways to buy clothes, sure, but those other ways are for rubes and pushovers. The Jobsian approach is the one true path to greatness. To classic elegance. To being the best dressed gentleman in line at this Starbucks-inside-a-Target.

hahahah

 

[bdavro23]

I happened upon this video and I noted that at the beginning during the shoulder measurements, the fitter uses a Perkins device to establish the slope. I have to say I was really surprised as those are typically used in MTM to determine what adjustments to make to the pattern. I thought I would see if @Despos or @jefferyd wanted to offer an opinion or share their thoughts. Gentlemen?

 

[Dannefalk]

Here is the finished result of my raglan coat made by A.W Bauer here in Stockholm. The cloth is Fox natural slate twill 27/28 oz. This was my first wear and the cloth is quite sturdy. I'll wear it more to see if there are any tweaks needed. Other clothing featured is BnTailor cavalry twill trousers, Rubato shirt and sweater. Photos: Milad Abedi. Angry face: myself.









Have a great weekend!

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Dannefalk,

This is a very nice overcoat!

It makes me re-consider my aversion to raglan construction, and I also find interesting its lapel-less design.

Enjoy it in health in your northern winters!

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[IJReilly]

Here is the finished result of my raglan coat made by A.W Bauer here in Stockholm. The cloth is Fox natural slate twill 27/28 oz. This was my first wear and the cloth is quite sturdy. I'll wear it more to see if there are any tweaks needed. Other clothing featured is BnTailor cavalry twill trousers, Rubato shirt and sweater. Photos: Milad Abedi. Angry face: myself.

View attachment 1298420

View attachment 1298421

View attachment 1298422

View attachment 1298423

Have a great weekend!

I really want a replacement for my old split raglan in cotton, but most models I’ve seen have a small lapel at the top. Wish there were more straight options, like a car coat.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I visited John DiPietro today to retrieve a waistcoat that he had made for me and a pair of trousers that he mended for me. I also had one of the vests that he had made before that needed a button sewn back on. I hadn't seen him for about a month, presumably as he was recuperating from hernia surgery and had to finish a white-tie ensemble that needed to be ready by Thursday for a gala at the Union League. (The client informed him that the dress code is so exacting that all attendees will be examined for the correct details before being allowed to participate) He told me that it was quite difficult to make and he'd only been asked to make three such garments in his career. The customer was reportedly very pleased.

I also commissioned another vest, to complete a set to accompany trousers that he had me for me earlier and to start work on a winter suit in a very dark wool and cashmere blend fabric that I'd placed a deposit for a while ago. It will be a little eccentric, as is my wont, with wide cloverleaf lapels, a half-belted back and a waistcoat modeled after one from a vintage black lounge suit that I'd found a picture of. We talked about using the side-vent trousers that I saw a picture somewhere hereabouts from Hugo Jacomet, although I'm having second thoughts that as I suspect that the feature might be better for warm-weather suits, but that can be resolved later. He was, as always, very engaging and obliging of my peculiarities. One peculiarity that I didn't quite embrace, as the tailor excepted that I might not, was a vertical breast pocket, which he showed me pictures of on a suit from when he started working with athletes from the Philadelphia Eagles decades ago.

He also showed me some cloth samples for a covert coat that we've been discussing, but none of the first round were quite to my liking. It will be a while until I'm ready to commission it anyway, so we can take our time.

We also chatted about his past working for Jacob H. Cohen in a now vacant building on North Broad Street and, prompted by my recognizing that Cannonball Adderley's Autumn in Paris album was playing, jazz, which he was a greater aficionado of than I'd at first realized. I also got to meet Ed Shay, a recently retired local attorney whom Mr. DiPietro has made dozen of garments for over several decades, who came to retrieve a pair of trousers that were to be a Christmas gift for his son.

I'm looking forward to both the suit and coat, but have nothing to show of them as of yet, so in lieu of any pictures, for the time being please enjoy Bea Arthur singing "Pirate Jenny".

 

[dieworkwear]

We also chatted about his past working for Jacob H. Cohen in a now vacant building on North Broad Street and, prompted by my recognizing that Cannonball Adderley's Autumn in Paris album was playing, jazz, which he was a greater aficionado of than I'd at first realized.

love that song. his sextet album in new york is also one of my favorite albums

 

[RickyTakhar]

Here is the finished result of my raglan coat made by A.W Bauer here in Stockholm. The cloth is Fox natural slate twill 27/28 oz. This was my first wear and the cloth is quite sturdy. I'll wear it more to see if there are any tweaks needed. Other clothing featured is BnTailor cavalry twill trousers, Rubato shirt and sweater. Photos: Milad Abedi. Angry face: myself.

View attachment 1298420

View attachment 1298421

View attachment 1298422

View attachment 1298423

Have a great weekend!

@Dannefalk congrats on the success of Rubato! is the shirt an upcoming launch? Any details you can discuss?

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

love that song. his sextet album in new york is also one of my favorite albums

Ey yi yi. The Cannonball Adderley album that I actually meant to refer to was Something Else, which featured Miles Davis, but instead kludged the album Autumn Leaves together with the song "Springtime in Paris". That's what I get for posting under the influence of too much Bea Arthur, or maybe the entire bottle of Freixenet Cordon Negro that I had finished an hour earlier.

What? I had to! All of my bottle stoppers are broken. It would have gone flat!

 

[dieworkwear]

Ey yi yi. The Cannonball Adderley album that I actually meant to refer to was Something Else, which featured Miles Davis, but instead kludged the album Autumn Leaves together with the song "Springtime in Paris". That's what I get for posting under the influence of too much Bea Arthur, or maybe the entire bottle of Freixenet Cordon Negro that I had finished an hour earlier.

What? I had to! All of my bottle stoppers are broken. It would have gone flat!

no worries, i hadn't even noticed the typo.

what's a vertical breast pocket by the way? i assume that's the in-breast pocket?

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

no worries, i hadn't even noticed the typo.

what's a vertical breast pocket by the way? i assume that's the in-breast pocket?

It's actually the outer breast pocket, where a pocket square is placed. Rather than opening upward, that is horizontally aligned, it opens to the left and is vertically aligned. (I suppose opening to the right would be possible, but I'd expect that to be awkward) I imagine that it's appeared a few times in the annals of men's fashion, but the only examples that I can verify are on suits that belong to Mr. DiPietro and to Philadelphia basketball 'color commentator' Sonny Hill, who had Mr. DiPietro make one for him.