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Mr. Six

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I have made it clear to everyone that I'm talking to that I won't make a decision immediately. I want to get multiple perspectives (including folks here). DWW has also given me some guidance.

I had an excellent experience working with Fred on an ulster.

Showing the same jackets with trousers and jeans illustrates perfectly (IMO) that they're just for different purposes. Each conjures a wholly different day and tasks to accomplish, different people met, different experiences. None better or worse than the other, just different.

This guy gets it.
 

me.spoke

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Storm system is an odd cloth.
It‘s stiff and doesn’t really drape.
Would not do a raglan sleeve with this cloth.
Besides being water repellant, another claim is that it is wind proof, meant to protect you from the wind. Cloth doesn’t breath.

Duly noted! Is it because the raglan is harder to sew or would the fabric drape badly in the shoulder? Regardless, I will follow your suggestion and go for a standard shoulder.

Regarding the lack of breathability, I did expect that, but again I was not thinking about using the overcoat outside of the rainy, windy season.
I understand your aversion for knee-length. But a trenchcoat that is not knee-length is just plain and simple not a raincoat.

The reason why you want the coat to hit just below the knees is because when it rains and you walk it doesn't direct the water down on your trousers. My experience is that when the raincoat is above the knees your legs will get really wet because all the water collected by the coat will drop on your knees and thus make your legs wet.

If it's knee length most of the water will be directed to the ground instead. That's why I will not buy a trenchcoat nor raincoat that is not atleast knee-length.
Oh, I am all for long coats and this one will be no different. In terms of length I want it to be like my bespoke polo coat:

IMG_1505.jpeg

IMG_2857.jpeg

I just meant that regardless of the fabric, I would not wear such coat in the summer. Sorry if I failed to articulate that correctly.
 

jonathanS

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Duly noted! Is it because the raglan is harder to sew or would the fabric drape badly in the shoulder? Regardless, I will follow your suggestion and go for a standard shoulder.

Regarding the lack of breathability, I did expect that, but again I was not thinking about using the overcoat outside of the rainy, windy season.

Oh, I am all for long coats and this one will be no different. In terms of length I want it to be like my bespoke polo coat:

View attachment 2312949
View attachment 2312951
I just meant that regardless of the fabric, I would not wear such coat in the summer. Sorry if I failed to articulate that correctly.
I guess if it doesn’t rain during the summers, that’s an option. Basically all of the East coast rains during the summer.
 

Sreezy36

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Thanks, I also think it is the closest to my expectations. Now that I think of it, the lack of some of the bells and whistles such as the gun flap and epaulettes could also go better with the fabric.


To be honest, I don’t think I’d wear any knee-long outerwear in the summer, I would certainly run too hot. I want an overcoat that I could wear during the rainy season. To me, it translates to early spring and autumn. During the summer, I cannot envision layering beyond a shirt and a sport coat.

The cashmere in this fabric is pretty lightweight, with very short fibers. It’s the membrane that gives it a little more structure. It certainly has got that technical fabric feel, just more luxurious and softer to the touch than the classic cotton blends.

why not a classic cotton gaberdine trench with a detachable lining. That way you can wear it year round?

those "technical cloths" scare me. A lot of effort to mimick an extremely well tested 100+ year old formula (cotton gaberdine).

BTW, i always thought that a raglan shoulder is standard for a trench coat.
 

Zerase

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Duly noted! Is it because the raglan is harder to sew or would the fabric drape badly in the shoulder? Regardless, I will follow your suggestion and go for a standard shoulder.

Regarding the lack of breathability, I did expect that, but again I was not thinking about using the overcoat outside of the rainy, windy season.

Oh, I am all for long coats and this one will be no different. In terms of length I want it to be like my bespoke polo coat:

View attachment 2312949
View attachment 2312951
I just meant that regardless of the fabric, I would not wear such coat in the summer. Sorry if I failed to articulate that correctly.
Absolutely smashing polo coat. Might have to take a trip south to Poland and get one made :)
 

Sreezy36

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Thanks. I'm looking for a polo with an ulster collar and a few other details. I'm meeting Lee tomorrow. I think Fred is traveling.

Are you opting for a more fitting or classic oversized silhouette for your polo coat?
 

brax

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Switching gear here - Qemal recently posted two pictures (see below) which have pretty different lapel lines to my eye. The check one has a long roll all the way to (past?) the second button, and the grey jacket seems to have a much shorter lapel.

Is it that these are two different lapel shapes? And if so, which one is the quintessential 'Qemal' style. Or do you think that overtime the lapel roll just elongates naturally with wear?


View attachment 2311913

View attachment 2311915
I’m not sure what he has in mind for our LL reverse chalkstripe flannel commission but I hope it’s the former.
 

brax

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Anyone can learn if you do the work and keep doing the work. The few people I tried to help learn the trade resisted the repetition it took to master the basics. You build your abilities slowly through repetition to build consistency so your work looks professional and not amateurishly home made.
Like learning to play an instrument, cooking or a sport.
This came from my ski coach but probably applies to a wide variety of fields.
IMG_4442.jpeg
 

me.spoke

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I guess if it doesn’t rain during the summers, that’s an option. Basically all of the East coast rains during the summer.
I think this is also a matter of one’s habits and preferences. In the summer, I usually feel hot just wearing a shirt and a jacket combo despite the fact that the mean annual temperature in New York is approximately 8°C higher than in Warsaw. Because of that, I have to run for cover when it’s raining instead of donning a trench coat.
why not a classic cotton gaberdine trench with a detachable lining. That way you can wear it year round?

those "technical cloths" scare me. A lot of effort to mimick an extremely well tested 100+ year old formula (cotton gaberdine).

BTW, i always thought that a raglan shoulder is standard for a trench coat.
I simply liked the hand of this cashmere fabric. The color and weight seemed perfect for a trench coat. I guess I was just curious how it would turn out.
Absolutely smashing polo coat. Might have to take a trip south to Poland and get one made :)
Thanks, I do like it very much. If you are based in Sweden, you could check out Siergiej Tarasenko or Dawid Kuklicki. They are just across the Baltic Sea and are very skilful artisans. My tailor, Mr Blonski, is an old school guy based in Warsaw. His house style is not something that I’m a great fan of, but he is very flexible and is eager to try something more contemporary. In most cases the results are very good (as demonstrated above).
 
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Sreezy36

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@me.spoke
i lived in the north east for 8 years.

from my experience, the temps tend to cool down when it rains. Not like the tropical gulf coast southern usa where the rain doesn't correspond with a significant temperature change in the warmer months.

a cotton gaberdine is 10-11oz which is basically a glorified rain tarp. the removable liner gives it the warmth.

if a db is too much you can always opt for a single breasted.
 

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