Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[jonathanS]

Don’t romanticize the previous generation around the times of both world wars. Most had to learn the trade or any trade to survive. It wasn’t an easy life for a lot of them. My dad started at 11 years old in Greece in a time and place where his village had no electricity. His first job in the tailor shop was heating the irons on wood fires.

my point was most young tailors today don’t want to put in the work the old generation did (whether or not by choice or by force). They want to be tailors but don’t like sewing. So they really prefer being businessmen who don’t cut & don’t make.

Its on apple or Amazon for less than a cup of coffee…

what if I can’t afford coffee anymore?

 

[JohnMRobie]

what if I can’t afford coffee anymore?

 

[sugarbutch]

The video " O Mast" about Neapolitan tailoring was shown at the Style Forum 10 th
Anniversary meetings in San Francisco in 2012. It includes interviews with leading
"sartos" like Antonio Panico who discuss their apprentiships and the Neapolitan
bespoke ecosystem. I found it riveting and I can barely sew on a button.

I overindulged at the open bar reception beforehand and slept through most of it. I recall (barely) dinner afterward with @LA Guy

 

[Texasmade]

I overindulged at the open bar reception beforehand and slept through most of it. I recall (barely) dinner afterward with @LA Guy

Is that the infamous chicken sashimi?

 

[sugarbutch]

Is that the infamous chicken sashimi?

That sounds vaguely familiar, but I was at least 3.5 sheets to the wind.

 

[clee1982]

chicken sashimi sounds like a really bad idea

 

[me.spoke]

I am contemplating a new commission and I would like to hear your suggestions.

I have a length of tan Loro Piana Storm System in 100% cashmere. It would be ideal for a trench coat.

I feel like going for a classic style - DB, slightly oversized, perhaps with raglan shoulders (unless you deter me from doing so), just-below-the-knee length.

Of course the iconic Humphrey Bogart iteration comes to mind:

I also like the BnTailor style. It is slightly more minimalistic, with a broader belt and no epaulettes.

Any ideas what to remember about when talking to the tailor? I have two bespoke overcoats, but no experience with trench coats (I do think they might be tricky to get right). Do you make them canvassed or unstructured?

 

[DorianGreen]

I am contemplating a new commission and I would like to hear your suggestions.

I have a length of tan Loro Piana Storm System in 100% cashmere. It would be ideal for a trench coat.

I feel like going for a classic style - DB, slightly oversized, perhaps with raglan shoulders (unless you deter me from doing so), just-below-the-knee length.

Of course the iconic Humphrey Bogart iteration comes to mind:

View attachment 2312647
View attachment 2312649

I also like the BnTailor style. It is slightly more minimalistic, with a broader belt and no epaulettes.

View attachment 2312657

View attachment 2312653
View attachment 2312655

Any ideas what to remember about when talking to the tailor? I have two bespoke overcoats, but no experience with trench coats (I do think they might be tricky to get right). Do you make them canvassed or unstructured?

Any pictures of the cloth?

 

[me.spoke]

Sure, I have one demonstrating its water-repellent properties

The thing is the membrane fused to the outer cloth makes me wonder what construction to go for to get that trench coat structure right.

 

[DorianGreen]

Sure, I have one demonstrating its water-repellent properties
View attachment 2312717

The thing is the membrane fused to the outer cloth makes me wonder what construction to go for to get that trench coat structure right.

Nice, I would go for this, unstructured.

The other examples are too distant in my eyes, as the fabric is probably cotton.

 

[jonathanS]

I am contemplating a new commission and I would like to hear your suggestions.

I have a length of tan Loro Piana Storm System in 100% cashmere. It would be ideal for a trench coat.

I feel like going for a classic style - DB, slightly oversized, perhaps with raglan shoulders (unless you deter me from doing so), just-below-the-knee length.

Of course the iconic Humphrey Bogart iteration comes to mind:

View attachment 2312647
View attachment 2312649

I also like the BnTailor style. It is slightly more minimalistic, with a broader belt and no epaulettes.

View attachment 2312657

View attachment 2312653
View attachment 2312655

Any ideas what to remember about when talking to the tailor? I have two bespoke overcoats, but no experience with trench coats (I do think they might be tricky to get right). Do you make them canvassed or unstructured?

I’m not sure a trench coat is a great idea: would you wear it in the summer?

Typically, id wear a trench coat during the summer. I’m not sure id wear a cashmere trench coat though. Lightweight wool, maybe.

If you do a trench, keep it traditional

 

[me.spoke]

Nice, I would go for this, unstructured.

View attachment 2312723

The other examples are too distant in my eyes, as the fabric is probably cotton.

Thanks, I also think it is the closest to my expectations. Now that I think of it, the lack of some of the bells and whistles such as the gun flap and epaulettes could also go better with the fabric.

I’m not sure a trench coat is a great idea: would you wear it in the summer?

Typically, id wear a trench coat during the summer. I’m not sure id wear a cashmere trench coat though. Lightweight wool, maybe.

If you do a trench, keep it traditional

To be honest, I don’t think I’d wear any knee-long outerwear in the summer, I would certainly run too hot. I want an overcoat that I could wear during the rainy season. To me, it translates to early spring and autumn. During the summer, I cannot envision layering beyond a shirt and a sport coat.

The cashmere in this fabric is pretty lightweight, with very short fibers. It’s the membrane that gives it a little more structure. It certainly has got that technical fabric feel, just more luxurious and softer to the touch than the classic cotton blends.

 

[Despos]

Storm system is an odd cloth.
It‘s stiff and doesn’t really drape.
Would not do a raglan sleeve with this cloth.
Besides being water repellant, another claim is that it is wind proof, meant to protect you from the wind. Cloth doesn’t breath.

 

[L.deJong]

Thanks, I also think it is the closest to my expectations. Now that I think of it, the lack of some of the bells and whistles such as the gun flap and epaulettes could also go better with the fabric.


To be honest, I don’t think I’d wear any knee-long outerwear in the summer, I would certainly run too hot. I want an overcoat that I could wear during the rainy season. To me, it translates to early spring and autumn. During the summer, I cannot envision layering beyond a shirt and a sport coat.

The cashmere in this fabric is pretty lightweight, with very short fibers. It’s the membrane that gives it a little more structure. It certainly has got that technical fabric feel, just more luxurious and softer to the touch than the classic cotton blends.

I understand your aversion for knee-length. But a trenchcoat that is not knee-length is just plain and simple not a raincoat.

The reason why you want the coat to hit just below the knees is because when it rains and you walk it doesn't direct the water down on your trousers. My experience is that when the raincoat is above the knees your legs will get really wet because all the water collected by the coat will drop on your knees and thus make your legs wet.

If it's knee length most of the water will be directed to the ground instead. That's why I will not buy a trenchcoat nor raincoat that is not atleast knee-length.

 

[comrade]

I am contemplating a new commission and I would like to hear your suggestions.

I have a length of tan Loro Piana Storm System in 100% cashmere. It would be ideal for a trench coat.

I feel like going for a classic style - DB, slightly oversized, perhaps with raglan shoulders (unless you deter me from doing so), just-below-the-knee length.

Of course the iconic Humphrey Bogart iteration comes to mind:

View attachment 2312647
View attachment 2312649

I also like the BnTailor style. It is slightly more minimalistic, with a broader belt and no epaulettes.

View attachment 2312657

View attachment 2312653
View attachment 2312655

Any ideas what to remember about when talking to the tailor? I have two bespoke overcoats, but no experience with trench coats (I do think they might be tricky to get right). Do you make them canvassed or unstructured?

Very nice. I'd want it a bit longer and fuller. No epaulattes? Fine. My British Warm lacked
them. After a century it is OK to depart a little from the British World War I kit on which it
is based.