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_AMD

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3 roll 2 or any variation of this or 2 or 1 button fronts; lapel rolls above the button you button. The video is a poor example and the lapel is rolled to ”tight” to the buttoning point. Collar is too short and pressing won’t correct this.
Term for lapel roll just above the buttoning point is “bloom”
Video was to demonstrate how to restore the bloom of the lapel when it goes flat and not to change the breakline.
Thank you for your response. I thought that's what you meant but wanted to be sure.
 

jonathanS

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Geek out on the entire video or go to 19:25 for an explanation how the collar determines the roll of the lapel according to the direction of the breakline.


Out of curiosity, can someone learn to cut a jacket or make a coat from actually watching these videos.
 

taxgenius

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Out of curiosity, can someone learn to cut a jacket or make a coat from actually watching these videos.
Unfortunately, I think some have tried. :)
 

Despos

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Out of curiosity, can someone learn to cut a jacket or make a coat from actually watching these videos.
Don’t know. Always have thought tailoring should be taught like music theory. This guy comes closest to teaching this way. He has a good, thorough, in depth method here. Some of his ideas are contrary to my ideas based on my experience so discernment is required.
Lots of people have participated in making a jacket following these videos. Issue with learning anything is not having the knowledge or experience to realize what’s wrong or should be different and changed from what you did. Or knowing how to correct something. Even watching these videos without knowledge or experience, you don’t know what to look for or can actualize what your seeing with any meaning. That’s when feed back from a maestro is needed.
As you mature in anything you see things in more detail and realize the subtle differences.
For myself, the goal is improving my skills and not just proving my skills.
 

Despos

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Out of curiosity, can someone learn to cut a jacket or make a coat from actually watching these videos.
Anyone can learn if you do the work and keep doing the work. The few people I tried to help learn the trade resisted the repetition it took to master the basics. You build your abilities slowly through repetition to build consistency so your work looks professional and not amateurishly home made.
Like learning to play an instrument, cooking or a sport.
 

jonathanS

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Unfortunately, I think some have tried. :)
Have you tried?

Anyone can learn if you do the work and keep doing the work. The few people I tried to help learn the trade resisted the repetition it took to master the basics. You build your abilities slowly through repetition to build consistency so your work looks professional and not amateurishly home made.
Like learning to play an instrument, cooking or a sport.
That makes a lot of sense. Now people pay money to go to these schools that will teach them to be a bespoke tailor. They come out and think it’s time to open their own sartoria. They don’t value the apprenticeship as much as the previous generation: you know. The guys who started at 10 years old and apprenticed for years under several different maestros taking what they could learn from each to create their own.
 

Despos

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Have you tried?


That makes a lot of sense. Now people pay money to go to these schools that will teach them to be a bespoke tailor. They come out and think it’s time to open their own sartoria. They don’t value the apprenticeship as much as the previous generation: you know. The guys who started at 10 years old and apprenticed for years under several different maestros taking what they could learn from each to create their own.
Don’t romanticize the previous generation around the times of both world wars. Most had to learn the trade or any trade to survive. It wasn’t an easy life for a lot of them. My dad started at 11 years old in Greece in a time and place where his village had no electricity. His first job in the tailor shop was heating the irons on wood fires.
 

Despos

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If you want to hear tailor‘s stories go to “international school of tailoring” you tube site, not their website.
and scroll to the interviews. This was the content before the school started. Couple of names you know.
Here’s one with Frank Shattuck

 

epsilon22

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If anyone still wants a slot... Bid starting at $500.

The nerve of this guy, to shamelessly undercut our @Crispyj ...

 

Despos

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Another site for interviews. https://www.discoverartifex.com/
and this guy
 

comrade

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Another site for interviews. https://www.discoverartifex.com/
and this guy

The video " O Mast" about Neapolitan tailoring was shown at the Style Forum 10 th
Anniversary meetings in San Francisco in 2012. It includes interviews with leading
"sartos" like Antonio Panico who discuss their apprentiships and the Neapolitan
bespoke ecosystem. I found it riveting and I can barely sew on a button.

 

Despos

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The video " O Mast" about Neapolitan tailoring was shown at the Style Forum 10 th
Anniversary meetings in San Francisco in 2012. It includes interviews with leading
"sartos" like Antonio Panico who discuss their apprentiships and the Neapolitan
bespoke ecosystem. I found it riveting and I can barely sew on a button.


Was even better watching this with my Italian tailors who shared a more graphic interpretation of what was said than the English sub titles did.
 

Texasmade

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The video " O Mast" about Neapolitan tailoring was shown at the Style Forum 10 th
Anniversary meetings in San Francisco in 2012. It includes interviews with leading
"sartos" like Antonio Panico who discuss their apprentiships and the Neapolitan
bespoke ecosystem. I found it riveting and I can barely sew on a button.


It got reposted back to Youtube! I remember watching this years ago and then not being able to see it anymore because Youtube took it down.
 

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