Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[jonathanS]

YMMV scenario for sure. I feel as though my Bryson (I think its 13oz?) linen gets busted up quicker than my AdL. Admittedly, AdL IS heavier, but the POV is a bit at odds with the general consensus

Interesting. I’ve heard good things about Spence Bryson & was considering using them for a linen suit.

 

[ppk]

Interesting. I’ve heard good things about Spence Bryson & was considering using them for a linen suit.

I have a brown linen suit with their cloth. It's great.

 

[kid1002]

I do not have any linen suit with their cloth. I cannot tell if it is actually great.

 

[The Chai]

I love spence bryson...cheap and bloody good

 

[The_Schmidt]

Are you folks ordering extra pairs of trousers along with your suits?

Not at all. Its a mix of "I do have more than enough stuff to wear so that I dont need that" and "if I ruin a pair of trousers for a suit, even if I have that fabric in stock, it still wouldnt match perfectly".

Having said that, there is only one pair of trousers that I ever wore out like that.

For my most recent suit project I am ordering a 2nd pair though, but it is not as a backup, but instead meant to be a separate pair to be worn solo or with odd jackets.

 

[The Chai]

If it's a suit where the trousers can double up as odd trousers I order 2 pairs. One with and without belt loops. That way I have 2 different styles to wear with the suit and I had an extra pantaloons for sports coats etc

 

[jonathanS]

I do not have any linen suit with their cloth. I cannot tell if it is actually great.

I was thinking about doing a cream suit in it. I’d prefer a vintage linen but I may settle on a Spence Bryson.

 

[ericgereghty]

Interesting. I’ve heard good things about Spence Bryson & was considering using them for a linen suit.

Oh, it's not bad at all, to be clear. I just find that AdL, while feeling looser/baggier, tends to wind up looking a bit crisper than Bryson.

But, again, this is linen. You're not buying a suit of it (and certainly not in cream!) if you're expecting razor sharp lines

 

[Ranciere69]

Commissioning a business suit from J. Mueser in NYC, selected a Fox City char-navy four-point (a puppytooth) in a medium weight (FC39 though I can't seem to find the fabric anymore from their website). I am tearing my hair out about a minor detail: Side-adjusters or belt loops? I typically associate side-adjusters with summer wear, high twist wools and linens, and this suit will be a slightly heavier formal business suit that I can wear to court or other legal events. Do folks have opinions on side-adjusters versus belt loops? Am I right to think of it as summer vs. winter, or and informal v. formal?

 

[CLH03]

Commissioning a business suit from J. Mueser in NYC, selected a Fox City char-navy four-point (a puppytooth) in a medium weight (FC39 though I can't seem to find the fabric anymore from their website). I am tearing my hair out about a minor detail: Side-adjusters or belt loops? I typically associate side-adjusters with summer wear, high twist wools and linens, and this suit will be a slightly heavier formal business suit that I can wear to court or other legal events. Do folks have opinions on side-adjusters versus belt loops? Am I right to think of it as summer vs. winter, or and informal v. formal?

Make the pants with side adjusters and have them make some extra belt loops to have if you decide you hate the side adjusters. Very easy to install belt loops.

 

[te0o]

Commissioning a business suit from J. Mueser in NYC, selected a Fox City char-navy four-point (a puppytooth) in a medium weight (FC39 though I can't seem to find the fabric anymore from their website). I am tearing my hair out about a minor detail: Side-adjusters or belt loops? I typically associate side-adjusters with summer wear, high twist wools and linens, and this suit will be a slightly heavier formal business suit that I can wear to court or other legal events. Do folks have opinions on side-adjusters versus belt loops? Am I right to think of it as summer vs. winter, or and informal v. formal?

Side adjusters increase the formality of a pair of trousers. Clean waistband, elongates your leg line, avoids a bulging belt buckle, etc.

 

[ZRH1]

I thought we all have stupid large rotation so unless you exclusive wear one suit, it's going to take 10 year plus for things to go bad?

I can confirm that. Started bespoke nearly 15 years ago and nothing ever wore off, however that is due to a large rotation and choosing sturdy fabrics (UK ones, never under 300gr).

 

[CLH03]

On the subject of pants, does anyone notice a difference in fit when comparing a 4.5 cm waistband to a 3.5 cm waistband?

It seems like the wider waistband should provide more support, but I’ve always done 3.5 cm.

I’m probably splitting hairs….

 

[L.deJong]

Here I have everything from yumeko, it's a Dutch brand and they have regular black Friday sales. So I wait for that and order a bunch.

For towels I go with Walra, another Dutch brand the last batch held up more than twenty years. I dont expect the new ones to keep going for that long but we will see.

Another idea, buy your own linen cloth and make your own bedsheets, it really is not that hard! Or let someone else stitch them together.
The only thing you have to make sure is that you keep your stitch straight.

 

[Ranciere69]

Side adjusters increase the formality of a pair of trousers. Clean waistband, elongates your leg line, avoids a bulging belt buckle, etc.

Thank you @te0o and @CLH03, my instinct was that a dowdy judge or opposing lawyer would not understand that the pants have side tabs and think "This amateur forgot his belt," but that is a risk I am willing to run in order to look good. I will have them make belt loops to set aside.