Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[hitsuji]

I thought we all have stupid large rotation so unless you exclusive wear one suit, it's going to take 10 year plus for things to go bad?

It was more I like to wear the trousers as an odd pair since theyre styled like a hollywood trouser but if I make it as a suit I’d probably forgoe that. My tailor and myself are keen in making it into a jacket > suit

 

[circumspice]

Are you folks ordering extra pairs of trousers along with your suits?

Planning to commission a old piece of gray/green Irish linen for a suit (already have trousers made - it wears well as an odd pair)

But afraid if the trousers do end up giving up then I’m stuck with a gray jacket - was planning to make it as casual as possible - edge stitches, 3 patches but I’m still quite stuck if its worth it. Theres only 5m of it left (75cm wide) so only really enough for a jacket or 2 trousers..

I have somewhat evolved to doing this in the context of the garment:
Grey flannel, grey high twist, or lighter weight Italian linen = yes, because the trousers are wearable as separates and/or more prone to wear/discoloration

I am thinking about possibly doing a Fox brown flannel with a bit of a quirky weave - I'd probably forgo the spare trousers on it

CL2-34 : Classic Flannel Broken Hairline Brown

Flannel has been developed over 250 years by Fox Brothers 1772, in Somerset, England. Known for its unique hand feel and instantly recognisable depth of colour and warm hues. Fox Flannel incorporates rich melange shades in both plain and classic patterns. Worn by generations of Hollywood actors...

foxflannel.com

 

[ericgereghty]

Are you folks ordering extra pairs of trousers along with your suits?

Planning to commission a old piece of gray/green Irish linen for a suit (already have trousers made - it wears well as an odd pair)

But afraid if the trousers do end up giving up then I’m stuck with a gray jacket - was planning to make it as casual as possible - edge stitches, 3 patches but I’m still quite stuck if its worth it. Theres only 5m of it left (75cm wide) so only really enough for a jacket or 2 trousers..

I kinda like having extra for linen. @camez_ makes sense in his POV, but unless you're going like 5+ wears to 1 for jacket/trews, I could not imagine running into notable color fading issues.

I like a second pair for fabrics that are less likely to hold creases all that well. Not that linen won't look a bit sloppy after even just a few wears, but, hey, having a backup mitigates that sloppiness to SOME extent, I'd wager

 

[classicalthunde]

you have to take into consideration that your linen will fade - for example - if you wear the suit a couple of times outside, the sun will do some work and the colour will fade - imagine your trouser bites the bullet - you'll have a faded jacket and an unfaded trouser

I'm not doing extra trousers anymore since I get my trousers cut generously

@hitsuji you could always get two pairs of trousers and then alternate wearing them so each has some wear/fade on them that would be close-ish to the jacket.

 

[Sreezy36]

Are you folks ordering extra pairs of trousers along with your suits?

Planning to commission a old piece of gray/green Irish linen for a suit (already have trousers made - it wears well as an odd pair)

But afraid if the trousers do end up giving up then I’m stuck with a gray jacket - was planning to make it as casual as possible - edge stitches, 3 patches but I’m still quite stuck if its worth it. Theres only 5m of it left (75cm wide) so only really enough for a jacket or 2 trousers..

I say trust your gut.

If you want to save money purchase extra cloth and CMT via luxire or a less expensive maker if need be. Better to be safe than sorry but it all depends on the person.

Some people wear out trouz faster than others. Some people are harder on clothes than others. Some have small wardrobes. Some have larger wardrobes. ETC.

 

[hitsuji]

I say trust your gut.

If you want to save money purchase extra cloth and CMT via luxire or a less expensive maker if need be. Better to be safe than sorry but it all depends on the person.

Some people wear out trouz faster than others. Some people are harder on clothes than others. Some have small wardrobes. Some have larger wardrobes. ETC.

You’re right about gut feel. I don’t think theres extra cloth unless Spence Bryson still sells single loom linens (it is from their tropical bunch)

I’ll pop by another day and measure the cloth properly - If theres enough cloth for a suit then it’s worth a go. He doesn’t end up using much cloth at all and just eyeball measured the bunch.

It’s definately a heavy irish linen so will stay true for times to come

 

[Alan Bee]

Where it all began ....

Cheers lads

Alan Bee (PROFF)

 

[aristoi bcn]

I’m sure I’m not the only one who, when I have made a cloth that I love, wants the summer/winter equivalent of it. Some years ago, I acquired a trouser length of this Loro Piana denim cotton (weight of circa 450g) and had it made by Cerrato. It took me a couple of years to find this other cotton and linen twill by Agnona via Il Vecchio Drappiere which has an almost equal weave and colour.

 

[Despos]

I’m sure I’m not the only one who, when I have made a cloth that I love, wants the summer/winter equivalent of it. Some years ago, I acquired a trouser length of this Loro Piana denim cotton (weight of circa 450g) and had it made by Cerrato. It took me a couple of years to find this other cotton and linen twill by Agnona via Il Vecchio Drappiere which has an almost equal weave and colour.

View attachment 2244499 View attachment 2244501 View attachment 2244503 View attachment 2244505

Caccioppoli special cotton & Irish linen book Nr 3203
Cotton/linen blend in 2 different weaves/ textures
270 to 360gr

 

[aristoi bcn]

Caccioppoli special cotton & Irish linen book Nr 3203
Cotton/linen blend in 2 different weaves/ textures
270 to 360gr

Thank you, will have a look for other colours. Until Fox and Maison Hellard launched their most recent linen books it wasn’t that easy to find linens in non-plain weaves from the usual suspects (Minnis, Harrisons, Dugdale).

 

[jonathanS]

Thank you, will have a look for other colours. Until Fox and Maison Hellard launched their most recent linen books it wasn’t that easy to find linens in non-plain weaves from the usual suspects (Minnis, Harrisons, Dugdale).

The Fox linen isn’t great for trousers. Doesn’t hold its crease. It’s better for a jacket or an over shirt.

I’m not sure about Maison hellard.

That caccioppoli 360gram cotton linen looks like it has potential.

 

[ericgereghty]

The Fox linen isn’t great for trousers. Doesn’t hold its crease. It’s better for a jacket or an over shirt.

I’m not sure about Maison hellard.

That caccioppoli 360gram cotton linen looks like it has potential.

Out of curiosity, what is your barometer for "holding its crease" when it comes to linen?

I haven't run the gamut, but I can't say I find any linen particularly GOOD (at least how I view it) are holding a crease.

My AdL Solbiati probably does the best, buttttttttt it's hardly bulletproof and I imagine that is almost exclusively due to the weight.

 

[jonathanS]

Out of curiosity, what is your barometer for "holding its crease" when it comes to linen?

I haven't run the gamut, but I can't say I find any linen particularly GOOD (at least how I view it) are holding a crease.

My AdL Solbiati probably does the best, buttttttttt it's hardly bulletproof and I imagine that is almost exclusively due to the weight.

Hmm. Good question - I’m not sure it’s a scientific thing. I’d say the w. Bill Irish linen trousers I have hold their crease better than the fox linen. I think everything is relative.

No different than wool: a fresco is going to hold the crease well - better than a super 200s.

 

[ericgereghty]

Hmm. Good question - I’m not sure it’s a scientific thing. I’d say the w. Bill Irish linen trousers I have hold their crease better than the fox linen. I think everything is relative.

No different than wool: a fresco is going to hold the crease well - better than a super 200s.

YMMV scenario for sure. I feel as though my Bryson (I think its 13oz?) linen gets busted up quicker than my AdL. Admittedly, AdL IS heavier, but the POV is a bit at odds with the general consensus

 

[Peak and Pine]

Out of curiosity, what is your barometer for "holding its crease" when it comes to linen?

I haven't run the gamut, but I can't say I find any linen particularly GOOD (at least how I view it) are holding a crease.

My AdL Solbiati probably does the best, buttttttttt it's hardly bulletproof and I imagine that is almost exclusively due to the weight.

Are you talking about actually holding a crease, meaning the front and rear crease of a pant leg, or preventing general wrinkling in linen? For the crease part there's a glue type bead that certain tailors and manufacturers (JAB) can use on the interior of the crease. Overall wrinkling is a different matter. A light starch may help.