Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[camez_]

That sleeve is straight and sharp enough to shave with.

I love that color. My early bespoke era was all about dark suits. Then I had a dove grey SB suit made up in Crispaire and I fell in love with it. One of next year’s commissions will be something in the same color but heavier, maybe Dugdale’s Fearnought.

now compare to this:

slightly curved sleeve - always an issue with other tailors than my main one that I use nowadays

I really like lighter colours, it works fine with dark hair and my slightly olive skin shade

my other commissions are half light, half dark coloured

 

[L.deJong]

Brown linen suit is finished, wore it for a couple of weeks before taking some pictures.
As stated we opened the quarters a little from the last commission, next suit/jacket will feature a lower button stance (only a touch, max. 1cm probably 0,5cm) and we will lower the gorge a little and make the lapel 0.5/1cm smaller.
Overall this is one of the best fitting suits I have, the styling is also on point and looks very much Milanese.

 

[DorianGreen]

Brown linen suit is finished, wore it for a couple of weeks before taking some pictures.
As stated we opened the quarters a little from the last commission, next suit/jacket will feature a lower button stance (only a touch, max. 1cm probably 0,5cm) and we will lower the gorge a little and make the lapel 0.5/1cm smaller.
Overall this is one of the best fitting suits I have, the styling is also on point and looks very much Milanese.
View attachment 2234963
View attachment 2234965 View attachment 2234967

Very good fit and nice proportions overall. The lapels width looks perfect. I would only widen the trousers leg opening.

 

[circumspice]

Brown linen suit is finished, wore it for a couple of weeks before taking some pictures.
As stated we opened the quarters a little from the last commission, next suit/jacket will feature a lower button stance (only a touch, max. 1cm probably 0,5cm) and we will lower the gorge a little and make the lapel 0.5/1cm smaller.
Overall this is one of the best fitting suits I have, the styling is also on point and looks very much Milanese.
View attachment 2234963
View attachment 2234965 View attachment 2234967

I would be hesitant to mess with the lapels - this is a longer coat, and smaller lapels would likely aim more "North" than "Northeast and Northwest". In other words, they will be more vertical, and I think potentially prone to emphasizing your height and leanness, which don't really need any help. The lapel roll and current size balance things out, basically.

 

[L.deJong]

Very good fit and nice proportions overall. The lapels width looks perfect. I would only widen the trousers leg opening.

Something I haven't thought about! But maybe you are right! Times are changing. But that's easily done of course, enough fabric to let the trousers out. Will think about it next year.

 

[L.deJong]

I would be hesitant to mess with the lapels - this is a longer coat, and smaller lapels would likely aim more "North" than "Northeast and Northwest". In other words, they will be more vertical, and I think potentially prone to emphasizing your height and leanness, which don't really need any help. The lapel roll and current size balance things out, basically.

You maybe right, what do you think of the gorge height and angle?
I think that's the main thing, it's pretty high up there and angle is almost horizontal.

 

[mktitsworth]

You maybe right, what do you think of the gorge height and angle?
I think that's the main thing, it's pretty high up there and angle is almost horizontal.

I like the gorge to sit right on top of my collar bone and the lapel angle to look like my collar bones are growing out of it.

 

[hitsuji]

You maybe right, what do you think of the gorge height and angle?
I think that's the main thing, it's pretty high up there and angle is almost horizontal.

In my head if you lower the buttoning point I think the gorge will have to move down or the angle of the “notch”. Atleast thats how i think it works

 

[Despos]

I like the gorge to sit right on top of my collar bone and the lapel angle to look like my collar bones are growing out of it.

Duly noted.

 

[CLH03]

now compare to this:

slightly curved sleeve - always an issue with other tailors than my main one that I use nowadays

I really like lighter colours, it works fine with dark hair and my slightly olive skin shade

my other commissions are half light, half dark coloured

So how many tailors will you use and who do you think you’ll send the most commissions to? I really the look of the work that Sedat Selvi has done for you.

 

[L.deJong]

In my head if you lower the buttoning point I think the gorge will have to move down or the angle of the “notch”. Atleast thats how i think it works

I have no idea tbh, I will ask my tailor. But I think it's purely a taste thing. In private I got all kinds of comments. Some found the lapel too wide, others found it just perfect. The gorge was on point or should be lowered. The same for buttoning stance.
So I will discuss it with my tailor, and if he likes it as is we will keep it. I'm not going to change something that works and imho is balanced as is.
What I can do ask him during the fitting to show me the two buttoning stances and how the gorge would affect it. Maybe that will help me. I will keep you guys posted.

 

[camez_]

So how many tailors will you use and who do you think you’ll send the most commissions to? I really the look of the work that Sedat Selvi has done for you.

I'm with five tailors (excluding shirt and trouser makers) currently and will probably go with Sedat with one or two jackets and rest, not sure yet.

 

[Despos]

“I like the gorge to sit right on top of my collar bone and the lapel angle to look like my collar bones are growing out of it.”

“Duly noted”

Made him a suit and we discussed how to determine gorge placement with regards to fitting body structure and types. This was part of the discussion and a bit of his own interpretation of the subject.
Always surprised anyone listens or remembers anything I say.

If your remember a post I did of the different stages of preparing a basted fitting, it was his suit.

 

[mktitsworth]

“I like the gorge to sit right on top of my collar bone and the lapel angle to look like my collar bones are growing out of it.”

“Duly noted”

Made him a suit and we discussed how to determine gorge placement with regards to fitting body structure and types. This was part of the discussion and a bit of his own interpretation of the subject.
Always surprised anyone listens or remembers anything I say.

If your remember a post I did of the different stages of preparing a basted fitting, it was his suit.

I admit that I was puzzled by your response because I thought that was something I remembered learning from you. I would say you should be less surprised that people remember what you say as you've a voice worth listening to.

 

[stubbsj20]

“I like the gorge to sit right on top of my collar bone and the lapel angle to look like my collar bones are growing out of it.”

“Duly noted”

Made him a suit and we discussed how to determine gorge placement with regards to fitting body structure and types. This was part of the discussion and a bit of his own interpretation of the subject.
Always surprised anyone listens or remembers anything I say.

If your remember a post I did of the different stages of preparing a basted fitting, it was his suit.

Does any one have a link to the post? I would like to read it.