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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. worthlessturtle

    worthlessturtle Member

    Messages:
    13
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    Jun 1, 2016
    I've seen weakmonday reference Cisternino as well, not it isn't top secret anymore.

    I went to Florence early November to choose the cloth and get me measured up, the first fitting was last thursday and another fitting on friday. As the fittings went well, Cisternino will now ship the suit. But if there would have been major problems with the fit, I would have returned to Florence for another fitting.
     
  2. aph999

    aph999 Senior member

    Messages:
    597
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    Sep 27, 2006
    

    Sorry I missed this topic first time around, but for those of you considering Florence for bespoke, you've got a couple Cisternino tailors as options - Rodolfo (see posts above, looks like great work) and Piero. For more on my experience with Piero you can check out my posts on 6 and 13 September '16. I'll return to him again next time I'm in Florence. I had to break up my first commission in two trips (after the first measurement) because I had only 4 days for each visit, but Piero works long hours to get the work done. I'm very happy with the two suits I had made.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2017
    3 people like this.
  3. SartoriaMac

    SartoriaMac Member

    Messages:
    19
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    Sep 9, 2016
    Location:
    Rome Italy
    

    I agree with dfoverdx. Every tailor has their own style and more often than not asking them to do something other than they usually do can have poor results solely based on the fact that they aren't used to doing it that way. This is why many people try several tailors before they find the right match for them.
    It's probably too late, but when I cut and fit a suit for a client I try to have the armhole finish just under the armpit so that the client can let his arms down without the fabric curling into the armpit... Basically as high as I can get it without making it tight.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. jujujoo11

    jujujoo11 Senior member

    Messages:
    356
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    Sep 9, 2014
    The tailor already made the jacket and was finished. But I found the armhole to be too low. I didn't know it was going to be a problem after it was made. Do bespoke tailors re craft the jacket if the specs are off? Or do I pay more for the fix? I haven't taken the jacket yet. Thank you.
     
  5. SartoriaMac

    SartoriaMac Member

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    19
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    Sep 9, 2016
    Location:
    Rome Italy
    It would be pretty much impossible to fix an armhole that is too low unless it was too low by about 1cm... He would have to take away from the shoulder which would ultimately ruin the rest of the suit. Sorry.
     
  6. Xancatrius

    Xancatrius Senior member

    Messages:
    129
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    Feb 7, 2013
    Not sure if a bit off topic here but I was getting a polo coat commissioned and a tailor told me he wasn't comfortable with making one as he didn't have much confidence in doing up the collar

    - from a purely technical POV, how different is a polo coat's collar vs a normal jacket's collar?
     
  7. grahamBrowne

    grahamBrowne Active Member

    Messages:
    35
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    Oct 25, 2016
    Location:
    city of london
    The top collar on a polo coat is usually a two piece collar they are relatively simple but some people might struggle with getting the size right and cotton is a cloth that doesn't have much give.
    Not that difficult but if people haven't made one before they don't like to take on things for fear of them not looking good enough.
    Where are you based?
     
  8. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

    Messages:
    211
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    Jun 1, 2012
    I am not tailor so i don't know if it's possible or not. If you have a good relation with your tailor and pretty happy with this work then talk to him and explain the situation. However if you are not really happy with overall work then forget it and try another tailor.
    By the way did you make fittings without sleeves ? It's easy to see the armhole (inside and outside) area during fittings without sleeves.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2017
  9. grahamBrowne

    grahamBrowne Active Member

    Messages:
    35
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    Oct 25, 2016
    Location:
    city of london
    Go to your tailor and talk about any questions and worries you have they are there to help :)
     
  10. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    4,616
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    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    Silk/linen blend "Summer Tweed" by Die Work Wear - second fitting from Sartoria Corcos. Unfortunately, the studios of tailors does not really provide a good setting for color correct photography, but I tried to compensate in Photoshop to provide a decent representation of the cloth.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Looking forward to more cloth runs Derek!
     
    18 people like this.
  11. Winot

    Winot Senior member

    Messages:
    472
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    Nov 5, 2006
    Location:
    London
    Stunning. Looking forward to having mine made into an SB suit by Elia Caliendo - will start that in the next month.
     
  12. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    Nov 15, 2004
    

    That's awesome!
     
  13. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    Aug 12, 2015
    Location:
    Barcelona
    Lovely cloth, pity I missed this run.
     
  14. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

    Messages:
    411
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    Sep 15, 2008
    Location:
    London, UK
    A while back I promised pictures of bespoke overcoats. Here is one - a chesterfield by Steed. Navy camel/wool blend from memory. Sorry for the crappy mirror selfie photo. Hopefully you will be able to tell something of the shape however

    Will try to take one of the DB and the new C&M DB (fitting next week) asap

    R-O-T

    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  15. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

    Messages:
    411
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    Sep 15, 2008
    Location:
    London, UK
    And here is the outfit without overcoat and scarf. It is a Chittleborough & Morgan blazer in (I think) Smith's Botany, with a pair of Ambrosi worsted trousers, Vass oxblood longwings, a Charvet tie and a Sean O'Flynn shirt. Casual Friday client meetings

    R-O-T

    [​IMG]
     
    8 people like this.
  16. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,236
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    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    Good shit, pants look too skinny though as it to be expected from Ambrosi
     
  17. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Feb 27, 2011
    

    Jacket looks great. Would love to see more pics it and other C&M.
     
  18. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Nov 24, 2014
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    Looks good! You're really going to enjoy that jacket! [​IMG]

    Has anyone made up the Fresco yet?
     
  19. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,236
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    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    @Leaves is this Loro Piana Pecora fabric?


    [​IMG]
     
  20. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
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    Apr 10, 2011
    

    That looks great! Really like Kotaro's work.


    C&M jacket looks good. How do you like the company? I've been thinking about giving one of those more structured shoulder houses a try.
     

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