Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[jcmeyer]



Started by making sandals in the Bronze Age?

Still probably broke in faster than my Meermins.

 

[jolinlovesjunya]

Woodhouse 3 ply winter hopsack in the making by Sartoria Dalcuore. After some more work on the collar and a good ironing, it should be good to go!

 

[emptym]

Interesting. Their website copy reads tactfully vague, but the operation seems thought out. I assume half-canvas made in China? At ~$700 (for a SC) with shipping and $100 in alterations included, it does give me pause, but that sounds cool for more casual jackets. Intrigued to see how it shakes out.

Oops, thought I had replied to this. Full canvas, but yep made in China. The nice thing about it is that it's fully customizable, with an individual pattern and all construction details I could think of are available, even backward-slanting shoulder seams.

 

[Averroes1198]

Thanks, and indeed they are. They're made by Camiceria Artigiana Carmen, a small shirt tailor from Turin run by a mother and her daughter. Their website is here: http://www.bespoketailoring.eu (I bet they bought the domain very early) and there's a write of from Torsten here: http://sartorialnotes.com/2013/11/26/testing-bespoke-shirts-from-turin-22/

Nice shirts!

But those are my MTM instead of bespoke I guess? On the website I can only find she makes MTM shirts.

 

[S K M]



Nice shirts!

But those are my MTM instead of bespoke I guess? On the website I can only find she makes MTM shirts.

Strange, but to be fair I haven't read the text at their website myself. Mine were fully bespoke; they did a trunk show in Copenhagen where they measured me, then went back with a trial shirt that they then finished and sent to me (along with a polo). After having washed and worn both a few times I then provides them with some instructions for improvement, and I received the final order probably one and a half month later...

 

[greger]



Oops, thought I had replied to this.  Full canvas, but yep made in China.  The nice thing about it is that it's fully customizable, with an individual pattern and all construction details I could think of are available, even backward-slanting shoulder seams.

Some tailors think backward-slanting shoulder seams are better. If they are out of sight, then they don't show. Breast darts hold there shape, otherwise, they wouldn't be there.

 

[The Chai]

Cross post from Aus thread - my finished SBPL

 

[JohnnyDeVore]

As promised here the photos of my ongoing projects. This was my last fitting for this two suits. In total I had like four. Three of them were in one week during my stay in Tuscany, so that wasn't really a problem for me. I have to say that the photos don't to them justice, but you can see that the brown trousers are about 1cm too long. That will obviously be changed for the final suit.
Note: This was my first commision from Kotaro so I guess next time with 3 fitting we should be good. I ended up ordering 1 Brown Suit, and 2 SC for next Summer

 

[WillingToLearn]

Is he taking new customers? I heard some story about him not taking new clients until 2018!!!??? Also, is anyone comfortable sharing Corcos pricing?

 

[dawei94]



Is he taking new customers? I heard some story about him not taking new clients until 2018!!!??? Also, is anyone comfortable sharing Corcos pricing?

He is not taking new customers at this time. See the below links

http://sartoriacorcos.blogspot.com/2015/12/for-2016.html
http://sartoriacorcos.blogspot.com/2016/05/information-about-orders-in-2017.html

Pricing is available here:

http://www.sartoriacorcos.com/#!prezzo/cvw5

The prices are inclusive of VAT and fabric (though some fabrics may cost a bit more)

 

[JohnnyDeVore]

He actually doesn't take new clients, but apparently takes new work from excisting clients. I was lucky enough that I contacted him spring 15 for an appointement in december 15. I was probably one of the last clients he took on.

 

[IJReilly]



He actually doesn't take new clients, but apparently takes new work from excisting clients. I was lucky enough that I contacted him spring 15 for an appointement in december 15. I was probably that last client he took on.

He actually offered me a spot during his visit to Stockholm in spring this year, but I had decided that his cut wasn't quite what I was looking for.

 

[dawei94]



He actually doesn't take new clients, but obviously takes new work from excisting clients. I was lucky enough that I contacted him spring 15 for an appointement in december 15. I was probably that last client he took on.

I think it'll get better over time, as someone in the Japanese shoe thread mentioned that he had taken on two new apprentices, which should hopefully increase his output capabilities. I estimate that he can only do about 40 jackets a year, given that the dartless Florentine style requires significantly more ironing to shape the fabric and his frequent trunk shows in Asia and Europe. He does 2 week long trunk shows in Japan at least twice a year, plus Beijing, HK, and Stockholm (and maybe somewhere in Germany as well). I think the combination of low headcount (it used to just be him and his wife), frequent trunk shows, a new child, losing his previous apprentice, and blowing up here on SF as the hot tailor of the moment increased the number of new order inquiries to unmanageable levels

 

[JohnnyDeVore]

I think it'll get better over time, as someone in the Japanese shoe thread mentioned that he had taken on two new apprentices, which should hopefully increase his output capabilities. I estimate that he can only do about 40 jackets a year, given that the dartless Florentine style requires significantly more ironing to shape the fabric and his frequent trunk shows in Asia and Europe. He does 2 week long trunk shows in Japan at least twice a year, plus Beijing, HK, and Stockholm (and maybe somewhere in Germany as well). I think the combination of low headcount (it used to just be him and his wife), frequent trunk shows, a new child, losing his previous apprentice, and blowing up here on SF as the hot tailor of the moment increased the number of new order inquiries to unmanageable levels

He mentioned that in 2015 he made arround 80,90 Jackets - but also that this was way too much.

 

[WillingToLearn]

It's an interesting supply/demand pricing dynamic. Market forces would indicate he raise prices, but the long term nature of client relationships makes it more challenging.