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reidd

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Thanks for humoring me lol. I think its an interesting discussion since these are probably the most popular schools of tailoring on here. Personally I've struggled to pick a favorite myself (luckily I don't have to!).

The major differences as I see them:

Neapolitan: Longer and slightly roomier across the back and through the skirt. Shoulder is bang on with no narrowing or extension. More open quarters giving that X shape which I suppose is subjective but I really like it. Decent waist suppression and minimal chest drape. Very high armhole. Lower button point.

Florentine: Shoulder extension is noticeable but not major. I was initially worried about this aspect when I commissioned the jacket since I have very wide and square shoulders naturally. I think the effect is minimized by all the shape in the chest, slightly less waist suppression and the end result is perfect. Slightly lower arm hole than Napoli.

Both jackets are incredibly light (the Solaro is a heavier cloth than the mock leno) and quite comfy but in slightly different ways. The Neapolitan jacket moves with you while you kind of "move in" the Florentine for lack of a better way of putting it due to the drape.

Stay tuned for a similar DB comparison!
 
Last edited:

classicalthunde

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Thanks for humoring me lol. I think its an interesting discussion since these are probably the most popular schools of tailoring on here. Personally I've struggled to pick a favorite myself (luckily I don't have to!).

The major differences as I see them:

Neapolitan: Longer and slightly roomier across the back and through the skirt. Shoulder is bang on with no narrowing or extension. More open quarters giving that X shape which I suppose is subjective but I really like it. Decent waist suppression and minimal chest drape. Very high armhole.

Florentine: Shoulder extension is noticeable but not major. I was initially worried about this aspect when I commissioned the jacket since I have very wide and square shoulders naturally. I think the effect is minimized by all the shape in the chest, slightly less waist suppression and the end result is perfect. Slightly lower arm hole than Napoli.

Both jackets are incredibly light (the Solaro is a heavier cloth than the mock leno) and quite comfy but in slightly different ways. The Neapolitan jacket moves with you while you kind of "move in" the Florentine for lack of a better way of putting it due to the drape.

Stay tuned for a similar DB comparison!

Who were the two tailors?
 

tim_horton

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Having tried people from both I have found I prefer to wear Florentine tailors. This certainly may be due to small sample size, but in my limited experience the Florentino style is roomier in the chest and more comfortable to wear while the Neapolitan style is cut closer. I also am not a fan of spalla camicia, which is one of the main reasons why people choose Neapolitan, I think. I prefer a bit of an extended shoulder.

Now I’m sure there are Neapolitan tailors who cut a drapier fit, I’m just going off personal limited experience.

When it comes to English tailoring I also prefer the A&S school, which also has drape and extended shoulders.

What looks better on YOU? It’s hard to tell from just one photo but out of the two I prefer the Florentine jacket. Not that the Neapolitan one looks bad at all.
 

jonathanS

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On the subject of comparing cuts... Would be curious which style you guys think works better for me and why?

Neapolitan:

View attachment 2172579

Or Florentine:

View attachment 2172575
The question is which do YOU prefer. Which do you feel better in? Both are fine & have their place. You need to wear both and think about both. For me, Florence works better with browns / olives. Whereas Napoli is better for blues. Florentine works better for patterns too. But that’s just my eye, don’t let me influence your decision.

It’s not like one style looks particularly bad on you.
 

reidd

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As an aside, if anyone is on the fence about Smith's Solaro.. go for it. I've found it to be an absolute workhorse. Holds shape really well, super durable and hides stains to boot. That suit is 5 years old and has never been pressed. Also surprisingly easy to wear. Dresses up and down very well.
 

L.deJong

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As an aside, if anyone is on the fence about Smith's Solaro.. go for it. I've found it to be an absolute workhorse. Holds shape really well, super durable and hides stains to boot. That suit is 5 years old and has never been pressed. Also surprisingly easy to wear. Dresses up and down very well.
Only thing holding me back is the weight
 

ppk

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On the subject of comparing cuts... Would be curious which style you guys think works better for me and why?

Neapolitan:

View attachment 2172579

Or Florentine:

View attachment 2172575
As @SeamasterLux said, both look great. Picking nits and I think this has more to do with the suit than the fit - The Neapolitan seems to have some wrinkling on the sleeve, whereas the Florentine is very smooth and lapel roll on the Florentine is "chef's kiss" (can't find the emoji).
 

yanagi

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On the subject of comparing cuts... Would be curious which style you guys think works better for me and why?

Neapolitan:
Or Florentine:

I'm biased because I have 1 jacket from the same Neapolitan tailor ;) but IMO while both look great on you, I do think the Neapolitan one looks better. If I had to give a (subjective) reason why, I guess it's the shoulder; the Florentine one droops a bit.
 

potter AB

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London last week.
Just a blazer. However in an interesting cloth, Springram 16 oz.
First fitting. Sleeves will be shortened a tad.

LondonApril24b.jpg

LondonApril24a.jpg


LondonApril24c.jpg
 

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