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jonathanS

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Oh follow up thought, the guys at the armoury probably aren’t far off from your build. I’m thinking Marc & Alan. They’re not the largest gentlemen. Alan is a little taller, i think but as far as mass / size (shoulder, chest, waist etc) they’re not large.

I think a Napoli double breasted jacket would look fine on that build. It’s the bigger guys where a db can get tricky.
 

ChuckX

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Dm him on instagram. He might have some insights. Where do you live? Do you plan to be a one and done? Or order more in the future?

do you need a tailor that travels to you as well?


thank you. makes sense. On the rare occasion, there will be a tailor that doesn’t charge extra for a tuxedo. Those are great. Satoki San (RIP) didn’t charge extra for a tuxedo - I had my fabric with him before he had to close his sartoria in Milan
Will do. I live in Chicago and travel to Italy for pleasure pretty frequently lately. Definitely looking for a long-term relationship with a tailor. Did a little research here and came up with Tofani! What do you think?
 

jonathanS

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Will do. I live in Chicago and travel to Italy for pleasure pretty frequently lately. Definitely looking for a long-term relationship with a tailor. Did a little research here and came up with Tofani! What do you think?
Tofani isn’t for me, personally. But if you like his style, go for it. Do you speak Italian?

If you’re going to Italy frequently, Ciardi might be an option. There are others and Zizolfi or Pirozzi if you want the option to see them in New York.

if you’re going back, why not try multiple? And see what you like. In Naples, I think it’s better to order more than one on the first order so they know you’re not a one and done.
 

jonathanS

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Tofani isn’t for me, personally. But if you like his style, go for it. Do you speak Italian?

If you’re going to Italy frequently, Ciardi might be an option. There are others and Zizolfi or Pirozzi if you want the option to see them in New York.

if you’re going back, why not try multiple? And see what you like. In Naples, I think it’s better to order more than one on the first order so they know you’re not a one and done.
I just gave you a start. There are so many other good tailors in Napoli, but it’d take time to find them, so I gave you a few bigger names. I’ll throw maestro Antonio Panico in there too.

i think I’d prefer Florence for you on a sb jacket & Napoli db.
 

jimney

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I've got an appointment with Edward Sexton next week when they visit Chicago, and I'm planning to get a suit. I think I'm going to make the leap to pants with suspenders/braces instead of a belt, since I'm at the point in life where I have some extra padding at the stomach and I'm thinking braces may be more comfortable for the higher waist that I prefer.

Anyone else gone through this and have any advice I should keep in mind?
 

Texasmade

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I've got an appointment with Edward Sexton next week when they visit Chicago, and I'm planning to get a suit. I think I'm going to make the leap to pants with suspenders/braces instead of a belt, since I'm at the point in life where I have some extra padding at the stomach and I'm thinking braces may be more comfortable for the higher waist that I prefer.

Anyone else gone through this and have any advice I should keep in mind?
I made the change a few years ago. You'll never go back to belts or side adjusters since braces are much more comfortable. You'll probably want to have pleats done with braces instead of flat front.
 

jonathanS

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Good advice, appreciate it!

Here’s a brief intro on Florentine tailoring, by the 2 gentlemen I mentioned who aren’t the largest fellows.

 

L.deJong

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I made the change a few years ago. You'll never go back to belts or side adjusters since braces are much more comfortable. You'll probably want to have pleats done with braces instead of flat front.
True, but I went back to belts for casual trousers that I also wear without jackets.
I had a couple of moleskin trousers made, high-waisted for suspenders and I do not wear those as much because I do not like to wear suspenders uncovered.
Feels like I'm showing off, same with casual suits, I now have commissioned a linen suit, and that will be high-rise with side-adjusters. So I can also wear the trousers as separates.
But yes with a wool suit or wool trousers intended for wear with jackets I always opt for braces/suspenders.
 

clee1982

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Without jacket a proper fishtail/pleat/suspender to me always seems too much, so if you’re not the put the jacket on the back of your seat type then go for it
 

The Chai

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I prefer beltsed trousers with sports coats and side adjusters w suspenders for suits
 

clee1982

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I installed suspender button (or they all came with it) on nearly all my suit (which is 99% with side tab/side adjuster), but most of them are not cut for suspender proper so kind just cosmetic ish for me at this point
 

ericgereghty

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True, but I went back to belts for casual trousers that I also wear without jackets.
I had a couple of moleskin trousers made, high-waisted for suspenders and I do not wear those as much because I do not like to wear suspenders uncovered.
Feels like I'm showing off, same with casual suits, I now have commissioned a linen suit, and that will be high-rise with side-adjusters. So I can also wear the trousers as separates.
But yes with a wool suit or wool trousers intended for wear with jackets I always opt for braces/suspenders.

Without jacket a proper fishtail/pleat/suspender to me always seems too much, so if you’re not the put the jacket on the back of your seat type then go for it
Curious why y'all feel this way. Just because suspenders are (outside of SF land lol) pretty rare out in the normal people world?

If so, I agree, buttttt I've also never once had a person with anything other than positive reaction to them.

FWIW, I'm a jacket off type for much of the day once I hit the office.
 

clee1982

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I suppose just atypical (and obvious without jacket) so more self conscious?

Also I'm the one to wake up my daughter/make breakfast/get her to school bus, so one less thing to do is one less thing to do (plus have to fight a cat who want to rub my pant while shedding hair at the same time)
 

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