Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[hippotamus]

As I've spent the last forty years attempting to purge adjectives from my writing, I'm not sure I can comply. The shoulders don't feel like anything. They are just there. The jacket is just there. You will have to experience it for yourself.

• No binding or restriction of movement
• Collar remains anchored to my neck
• Over time, the jacket has relaxed to my shape. Putting it on it just fits

Cannot agree more with the importance of the collar sitting (anchoring is a better word) to the neck

 

[jolinlovesjunya]



Great presentation of the Liverano cut, you definitely carry the style nicely ! 

Thanks for your kind words. Gotta wear more to break in!

 

[Stugotes]

Prolly a better picture to show the sleeve length. I do feel this jacket the sleeves are relatively on the longer side, especially compared to my Neapolitan jackets. But I still feel comfortable with that.

Gotta quote the pic one more time, jacket's that awesome

 

[jolinlovesjunya]



Gotta quote the pic one more time, jacket's that awesome

Haha thanks

 

[jolinlovesjunya]

Throw back to May - fittings with Sartoria Dalcuore in New York. Orders placed through Brio Beijing in February.

1. Light grey nailhead summer two piece in Minnis Rangoon, basted fitting. Asked for a fuller chest. Leg opennings to be widen.

2. Beige linen trousers, alternative pents for my cholocate brown linen suit (same fabric, different color), to be widen out a bit as well.

3. Pepper salt chacoal stripe two piece in Edwin Woodhouse 3ply, forward fitting. Waist can use some tweaks. And I wish I could find more of this fabric for an extra vest!

The collar will be lift up a bit, causing the shoulder to be less extended and more natural. Closer to the below pic, with Luigi Dalcuore lifting my collar.

Motion blur..

 

[hippotamus]

@jolinlovesjunya , nice stuff again !

Great you got a hand of those vintage (or re-run?) fabric, both Rangoon and Woodhouse are good cloth, they especially fit your style for the jacket / suit. Nice 3 bottonish / 3 r 2.5, that lapel roll is wonderful too.

 

[jolinlovesjunya]



@jolinlovesjunya
 , nice stuff again !

Great you got a hand of those vintage (or re-run?) fabric, both Rangoon and Woodhouse are good cloth, they especially fit your style for the jacket / suit. Nice 3 bottonish / 3 r 2.5, that lapel roll is wonderful too. 

Thank you @hippotamus! The Woodhouse 3ply is vintage indeed, it's a chalk strip on salt and pepper chacoal background. Fall winter hopsack like. The Rangoon number is a re-run by forum member @Kolecho. I like Rangoon very much - a bouncy summer fresco with beautiful hand.

After the second fitting, Dalcuore redid the collar and lifted the back. Here's a pic of the hand padded collar as of today. Soon to be finished.

 

[jolinlovesjunya]

From Steed yesterday -

 

[sprout2]

Going all-out, I see. Very good.
The DB is smokin'.
Do you distinguish uses/contexts for your Italian versus English stuff?

 

[jolinlovesjunya]



Going all-out, I see. Very good.
The DB is smokin'.
Do you distinguish uses/contexts for your Italian versus English stuff?

TBH at first I didn't plan the commissions ahead. But after receiving a few items and wearing them for a while. I probably should start to think about this.

I will use Neapolitan tailors mainly for spring/summer items, especially causal stuff. Neapolitan tailoring brings the right vibe to the garments for that purpose. For fall/winter stuff, either Italian or British tailors will do, depending on the item and mood. However, I'd like to reserve formal stuff to British tailors.

Fabrics matter. For example, cashmeres for Neapolitan tailors, since I like them to be sweater-like. Finishing matters too. I'd like to hand more expensive fabrics (eg: vicuna) to a dedicated finisher. But it could just be me caring too much.

In addition, I've found English soft tailoring (like Steed) and Italian tailors with British influence (like Florentine and Milanese tailors) bring out the best of two worlds. I'm sure this has been discussed here repeatedly. You will find a lot of techniques in tailoring are common under many circumstances. A well tailored suit is appealing anyways, British or Italian.

 

[sprout2]

In addition, I've found English soft tailoring (like Steed) and Italian tailors with British influence (like Florentine and Milanese tailors) bring out the best of two worlds. I'm sure this has been discussed here repeatedly. You will find a lot of techniques in tailoring are common under many circumstances. A well tailored suit is appealing anyways, British or Italian.

Yes, I personally like this intersection, too.

 

[jolinlovesjunya]



Yes, I personally like this intersection, too.

A more consistent wardrobe.

 

[sprout2]

A more consistent wardrobe.

My OCD would get the better of me if I had to juggle multiple regional styles like you. Though I fully grok the formalwear from Britain -- that is another issue altogether. Maybe it's best to think less of contexts/seasons and more of specific function of the piece of clothing, e.g., tuxedo, safari jacket, lounge suit. There is a good case to make for compartmentalizing these.

 

[WeakMonday]

 

[jolinlovesjunya]



My OCD would get the better of me if I had to juggle multiple regional styles like you. Though I fully grok the formalwear from Britain -- that is another issue altogether. Maybe it's best to think less of contexts/seasons and more of specific function of the piece of clothing, e.g., tuxedo, safari jacket, lounge suit. There is a good case to make for compartmentalizing these.

Yep!