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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. DavidLane

    DavidLane Senior member

    Messages:
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    Feb 21, 2012
    Location:
    Upstate
    My first commission ever I went short, and I have regretted it since. I don't even wear that sport coat anymore as a result. I would recommend you stick with this length for this piece and consider going even longer in the next piece. I think your other listed changes are fine, but I would not go too far from what you have here as it looks good.

    DL-
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  2. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jul 6, 2013
    Bold choice sir! I wouldn't shorten the jacket.
     
  3. palodelincak

    palodelincak Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
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    Dec 25, 2015
    Thanks for opinions! I'll stick with this length for now.

    The fabric is quite bold choice as you wrote... I was little bit disappointed because it was much lighter on jacket then when I saw the swatch. But I suppose it's okay for autumn here :).
     
  4. Gavinband

    Gavinband Senior member

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    238
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    May 21, 2014
    Most definitely do not shorten.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    Jul 6, 2013
    FWIW, don't take "bold" as a critique. Since it's your coat, and your money that funded it, you ought to get whatever you please!

    It's definitely a bit too bold for me, but I'm fairly bland when it comes to dress.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

    Messages:
    5,081
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    Mar 30, 2009
    I certainly would not go any shorter.

    There will be more adjustments at this point? That is somewhat surprising to me (since the jacket seems finished).

    Who is the jacket from, out of curiosity?
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    People's Republic of San Francisco
    Another vote for this length or a bit longer.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. palodelincak

    palodelincak Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 25, 2015
    Jacket is from tailor named Hartl from Prague.
     
  9. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

    Messages:
    211
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    Jun 1, 2012
    Congrats to this tailor that i've never heard. Your jacket is fitting very good, chest has a drape, it has character, keep it as it's ! Don't do any changes with the exception of quarters that you can make very very slightly more open (question of taste...)
    For color; yes bunches seems always slightly darker than full length. I don't know why...
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. grahamBrowne

    grahamBrowne Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2016
    Location:
    city of london
    I wouldn't shorten the jacket, most people go by the rule if you cup your hands the jacket should sit in it which can be problematic if you have arms two different lengths (unless that's your stance).
    The jacket sits in line with your body rise (crotch) which is where I would fit most jackets too

    It's fine the jacket looks nice, great colour choice

    I will say I rarely comment on other people's fits because it's a very personal thing but in this case you might be overthinking the length
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Nov 24, 2014
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    I'll pile on: do not shorten the coat. It is barely long enough as it is.

    I love it, it looks great on you. I'd wear it.
     
    2 people like this.
  12. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Nov 24, 2014
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    San Jose, California
    Here are some more pictures of progress on my shooting jacket. My last fitting was back in May, but I don't think I'll get the finished jacket this year. Pictures courtesy of Matthew and Edwin DeBoise. This is Edwin modeling my jacket.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    We are going to remove the breast bellows pocket. Otherwise, it looks ready to be finished, to me.
     
    6 people like this.
  13. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
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    Apr 10, 2011
    Another vote for not shortening. Also wouldn't change the chest and quarters, but agree with Graham above that style is a very personal thing. I think the coat looks great on you, FWIW.
     
    2 people like this.
  14. palodelincak

    palodelincak Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    75
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    Dec 25, 2015
    Gentlemen, thank you all for your responses! I'm pleasantly shocked about kindness of people in this thread!

    The chest thing - I must say it's worse in real life then in photos. Actually there is a fold of fabric and canvas between my armpits and middle button. When you take a look at the waist line and then take a look at the sleeve line (where it attaches to the body) you see the line in between is disturbed by bulky chest.

    Quarters - most of my OTR jackets looks like this. So I decided that I want to try something new - thus the decision to have more rounded and open quarters (something like B&Tailor style).
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

    Messages:
    797
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    Nov 2, 2014
    I'd offer the following advice, learned the hard way: live with the jacket for a bit before you commit to changes, let it settle and get used to what sounds like more drape that you are used to. Drape doesn't look perfect is a static robo-pose, but it allows for movement and real life motion without pulling the entire jacket when moving.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

    Messages:
    260
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2015
    Location:
    Barcelona
    I would say that proportions would look better with less extended shoulder and a slightly longer jacket, but man, it looks very good. I think members would appreciate detailed shots to evaluate the finishing but you seem to have found a good tailor.

    BTW, orange is my favourite colour so I really like the cloth.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    Tokyo
    Jacket length fine, or even short given the loose fit around waist. Go with the fitters advice - they know best
     
    2 people like this.
  18. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Location:
    Princeton
    
    Do you shoot?
     
  19. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Location:
    San Jose, California
    I shoot the shit.

    A recent picture:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2016
    7 people like this.
  20. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Location:
    Princeton
    I'll take that as a 'no'.
     

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