Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[gimpwiz]

Yes, the weather in SF is famously the same as SJ, as SJ is after all part of the San Francisco bay area! At least, so I keep telling myself when I go to SF, but the weather there never seems to listen to my assertions. Decides to be 30F cooler. How rude.

 

[The Chai]

I suspect it would be mine as well.

My favorite gun club is this: https://foxflannel.com/products/check-2 (TD50)

The problem is it's quite heavy. The best alternative I can see is https://foxflannel.com/products/brown-gunclub-check-jacketing which I don't like as much.

Hmmmmm

Mine is a vintage scabal 280g in a high twist with a really faint overcheck.

 

[gimpwiz]

Post a photo!

 

[bernoulli]

Finally (almost) ready. Shantung silk dinner jacket. A shame the texture does not show up in the pics.

 

[The Chai]

Post a photo!

I actually have not taken photos of quite a few of my recent commissions...I shall snap one when I get back home!

 

[The Chai]

Finally (almost) ready. Shantung silk dinner jacket. A shame the texture does not show up in the pics.
View attachment 2050833 View attachment 2050835

Was it a conscious decision to go for the higher buttoning waistcoat? My personal preference for DJs is a lower buttoning waistcoat. I was gonna get that silk but did not pull the trigger on it as I thought it was too lightweight? How does it drape?

 

[misterlovemenswear]

Shantung silk is more of a medium weight silk. It's also very dense so it doesn't flow so much as maintain it's shape. Really nice shot silk. See the image for the general texture.

 

[bernoulli]

Was it a conscious decision to go for the higher buttoning waistcoat? My personal preference for DJs is a lower buttoning waistcoat. I was gonna get that silk but did not pull the trigger on it as I thought it was too lightweight? How does it drape?

I don't think the buttoning stance of the waistcoat is particularly high. It is in line with my other vests. As for the silk, it drapes ok but it wrinkles just by looking at it. I don't regret the project, but we will see how it performs when I wear it for the first time.

 

[bernoulli]

Shantung silk is more of a medium weight silk. It's also very dense so it doesn't flow so much as maintain it's shape. Really nice shot silk. See the image for the general texture.

I agree. It is dense, does not breather, and drapes ok (as it maintains its shape). However, it wrinkles like there is no tomorrow. I assume it is going to wear very warm.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Finally (almost) ready. Shantung silk dinner jacket. A shame the texture does not show up in the pics.
View attachment 2050833 View attachment 2050835

Looks nice. I just started conversations, yesterday, with a tailor about commissioning a 4x1 dinner jacket like this in deep burgundy velvet. I’m concerned that it’s a style that isn’t common for many tailors and easy to get wrong since it seems like the proportions have to be just right. Did you have to give much direction on button placement, etc?

 

[bernoulli]

Looks nice. I just started conversations, yesterday, with a tailor about commissioning a 4x1 dinner jacket like this in deep burgundy velvet. I’m concerned that it’s a style that isn’t common for many tailors and easy to get wrong since it seems like the proportions have to be just right. Did you have to give much direction on button placement, etc?

No, but I have surpassed the mythical number of 11 commissions with the same tailor. My main concern was the shape of the lapel. We discussed it at length. It met my expectations (but did not surpass them).

 

[The Chai]

With 4x1 i prefer a significantly lower buttoning stance...just under my navel

Looks nice. I just started conversations, yesterday, with a tailor about commissioning a 4x1 dinner jacket like this in deep burgundy velvet. I’m concerned that it’s a style that isn’t common for many tailors and easy to get wrong since it seems like the proportions have to be just right. Did you have to give much direction on button placement, etc?

 

[The Chai]

Post a photo!

 

[_AMD]

These two are the most worn gunclubs in my closet.

 

[reidd]

These two are the most worn gunclubs in my closet.

That second one is awesome. Do you remember which book/mill the cloth is from?