• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • UNIFORM LA Heavyweight Tees Drop, going on right now.

    Uniform LA's popular heavyweight tees are now restocked, in three styles, so there is something for every style. They are available in three classic colors: white, black, and the heather grey featured here.. These high quality tees are staples that work in every seasons. Check them out here here

    If you have any questions for the designer, please, he is a valued and active member and sponsor of the community, and can be found here

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Crispyj

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Messages
1,498
Reaction score
10,356
Speaking of Chan. I know you can get the Brycelands cut from them if you want, but I was wondering if you can get the Brio cut from them? Does anyone know if that’s possible? I absolutely love the cut/lack of front dart and and debating on getting my first suit next year in Chicago. Pic for reference.
Brio is independent of Chan. The cut is exclusively from Brio Pechino workshop in Beijing. Just ask Chan for a Florentine with exaggerated extended shoulders.
 

sargeinaz

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
526
Reaction score
354
Brio is independent of Chan. The cut is exclusively from Brio Pechino workshop in Beijing. Just ask Chan for a Florentine with exaggerated extended shoulders.
Sorry this picture is from when Brio had their own model that Chan made for them during trunk shows. This picture is from 2019. Before George opened up Brio Pechino.

I was wondering if you can just show Chan this picture and tell them make the same style you did for Brio in 2019. Does that make sense? Sorry for the confusion.
 

Crispyj

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2019
Messages
1,498
Reaction score
10,356
Sorry this picture is from when Brio had their own model that Chan made for them during trunk shows. This picture is from 2019. Before George opened up Brio Pechino.

I was wondering if you can just show Chan this picture and tell them make the same style you did for Brio in 2019. Does that make sense? Sorry for the confusion.
Ah you could try, doesn't hurt to ask unless they had some sort of deal with Brio to not make it for other clients.
 

BomTrady

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2019
Messages
401
Reaction score
637
2-3 year delivery doesn't inspire confidence when you have to pay $8k upfront.
L&L has plenty of die-hard customers. In fact, sometimes it’s hard to even get an appointment on the weekends. And in L&L’s defense, it’s certainly frustrating while you wait, but when you get your deliveries, it’s well worth every day of the wait.
 

jonathanS

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
3,006
Reaction score
1,686
L&L has plenty of die-hard customers. In fact, sometimes it’s hard to even get an appointment on the weekends. And in L&L’s defense, it’s certainly frustrating while you wait, but when you get your deliveries, it’s well worth every day of the wait.
It could be that Antonio is slowing down and getting older. Part of the allure of liverano is having him fit. So new customers aren’t as prevalent. Agreed that Antonio has a loyal following
 

othertravel

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
10,094
Reaction score
3,994
so is Liverano’s issue that they’re oversubscribed, or understaffed? If all these bespoke houses have such long wait times, then mens tailoring must be thriving.
 

Viatu

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2014
Messages
450
Reaction score
336
It could be that Antonio is slowing down and getting older. Part of the allure of liverano is having him fit. So new customers aren’t as prevalent. Agreed that Antonio has a loyal following

Just curious. Is there a known Liverano succession plan?
 

lordsuperb

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 30, 2009
Messages
9,100
Reaction score
12,803
L&L has plenty of die-hard customers. In fact, sometimes it’s hard to even get an appointment on the weekends. And in L&L’s defense, it’s certainly frustrating while you wait, but when you get your deliveries, it’s well worth every day of the wait.
What about Liverano keeps you coming back for more?
 

tdang

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2014
Messages
193
Reaction score
1,281
Regarding Liverano, just want to share my thoughts.

From 2500-3000 EUR and up, it's pointless, in my opinion, to mention handwork as a selling point, because the baseline is already so good - you won't be that much better than everyone else, nor will the majority of customers care that much about the incremental difference in fineness and density of work (at least that's what I believe to be the current prevailing sentiment among the menswear circle. The handwork obsession has probably fizzled out by now).

Value proposition is also out the window. LL was never a value option to begin with - if anything, it is antithetical to value - and it's increasingly easier to make the argument that for the price of 1 LL suit you could get 2 of tailor X's jackets, 3 of tailor Y's suits, etc. all of whom hailing from the same region or representing the same tailoring tradition. By extension, the defense from a 'unique cut' angle has also weakened. I still think the LL cut is still sufficiently different (for me) in a number of places (gorge, button stance, curve of quarters, etc.) to be convinced that the their interpretation of Florentine style is inimitable. Maybe my verdict will change after trying another 2 Florentine tailors, which I plan to do later this year.

In terms of the process, are you getting an 'haute couture' experience/ service at LL? I don't think so. LL has a pretty well-defined idea of fit, cut, detailing and even cloth choices. Antonio makes himself pretty clear on a few videos: he likes to dress men HIS way. So it is unlikely that you'll be able to "work with the tailor" to design something that is truly unique, nor something pays tribute to a historical reference when you go to LL. If this was what I was looking for, I'll probably go to Caid, Cifonelli or other tailors who show enthusiasm in such a design process.

So why LL? Or perhaps a more helpful question is: For whom does LL make sense?

1. Certainly repeat customers. I'm on my 6th commission with LL, and can confidently say that they've got the pattern down; only 1 fitting will be sufficient from here onwards. And given that I live in a country where no trunk show is happening and I have to travel for ALL bespoke commissions anyway, I'd rather overpay for a consistent experience than getting a bargain but not knowing what the outcome is like.

2. Those who have the basics covered/ Recreational bespoke customers. This is where LL really excels. When it comes to cloth, Antonio has seen and handled it all, and his disciples represent his taste in his absence very well. I can trust Taka or Jin to recommend me something that would excite me but at the same time fits in a nice little slot in my wardrobe that I never knew was there. Things like an olive Tonik suit, a silk jacket, or a checked sport coat in an unexpected color - these are the things I'd go back to LL for.

3. Those who wear tailored clothing casually. The cut matters a lot when you're wearing tailoring with jeans, and among all the tailors I've tried, LL is up there when it comes to suitability to a casual wardrobe. It's a combination of a lot of things, but the bottom line is that whether I'm wearing a jacket with a tie or with a t-shirt, an LL garment always manages to look 'right.'

4. Those for whom an LL commission is not too big of a financial/ time commitment. I'm not saying "money is no object", but realistically bespoke starts to suck the moment it becomes too big of a sacrifice. This is true for all tailors and not just LL. After the 2022 spree, I think (or I hope...) my wardrobe will be quite complete after I receive all the finished articles, and I've reduced my LL orders to one a year. Now it is fun, and I have something neat to look forward to every 12 months.
 

Texasmade

Stylish Dinosaur
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Messages
29,209
Reaction score
38,528
Certainly repeat customers. I'm on my 6th commission with LL, and can confidently say that they've got the pattern down; only 1 fitting will be sufficient from here onwards. And given that I live in a country where no trunk show is happening and I have to travel for ALL bespoke commissions anyway, I'd rather overpay for a consistent experience than getting a bargain but not knowing what the outcome is like.
Damn... 6 commissions. Almost to the mythical 11 before you can form an opinion on the tailor.
 

jonathanS

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
3,006
Reaction score
1,686
Some general thoughts, not saying I agree or disagree with you.

1. Certainly repeat customers. I'm on my 6th commission with LL, and can confidently say that they've got the pattern down; only 1 fitting will be sufficient from here onwards. And given that I live in a country where no trunk show is happening and I have to travel for ALL bespoke commissions anyway, I'd rather overpay for a consistent experience than getting a bargain but not knowing what the outcome is like.

I’m not sure how’s this is a driving factor if you have an established relationship with more than 1 tailor. But, I agree if you’re a long time customer, or only have one relationship with a tailor.

2. Those who have the basics covered/ Recreational bespoke customers. This is where LL really excels. When it comes to cloth, Antonio has seen and handled it all, and his disciples represent his taste in his absence very well. I can trust Taka or Jin to recommend me something that would excite me but at the same time fits in a nice little slot in my wardrobe that I never knew was there. Things like an olive Tonik suit, a silk jacket, or a checked sport coat in an unexpected color - these are the things I'd go back to LL for.

I think Antonio is a driving force and appeal. I was just talking with one of my friends about Antonio & he mentioned that, when he ordered from liverano, Antonio took all the measurements and performed all of the fittings.

Taka is the business manager. But, I wonder if Jin stays with liverano: qemal, & vittorio (and hojun, for good measure) all left liverano after performing that role for a few years. I think the vintage vault is a huge selling point of liverano though & it’s often that clients let the tailor select the fabric, once they know each other.

3. Those who wear tailored clothing casually. The cut matters a lot when you're wearing tailoring with jeans, and among all the tailors I've tried, LL is up there when it comes to suitability to a casual wardrobe. It's a combination of a lot of things, but the bottom line is that whether I'm wearing a jacket with a tie or with a t-shirt, an LL garment always manages to look 'right.

I don’t know if I’d consider liverano the perfect jacket for casual clothing as suggested. I don’t think it’s particularly wrong per se, but I think Naples or corcos is equally fine for casual clothing.

After the 2022 spree, I think (or I hope...) my wardrobe will be quite complete after I receive all the finished articles, and I've reduced my LL orders to one a year. Now it is fun, and I have something neat to look forward to every 12 months.

You and me both, my friend haha, although, I can only aspire to be on your level one day.
 

SeamasterLux

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2012
Messages
624
Reaction score
2,158
Ah you could try, doesn't hurt to ask unless they had some sort of deal with Brio to not make it for other clients.
He certainly can. I've made various changes to the WW Chan patterns over the years and now we even have a soft shoulder with more rounded quarters on some garments, such as the Solaro I've done with them this year.
1694155142976.png


That is in turn quite different compared to their usual cut and with no padding. That's more their usual stuff.

1694155294119.png
 

Featured Sponsor

Do You Consider Sustainability When Purchasing Clothes?

  • Always - Sustainability is a top priority in all my clothing purchases.

  • Often - I frequently consider sustainability, but it isn't the main factor in my decisions.

  • Rarely - I seldom consider sustainability when purchasing clothes.

  • Never - Sustainability is not a factor I consider in my clothing choices.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
510,573
Messages
10,621,751
Members
225,296
Latest member
Dalebure
Top