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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. JohnnyDeVore

    JohnnyDeVore Member

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    Mar 27, 2016
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    CH
    He actually doesn't take new clients, but apparently takes new work from excisting clients. I was lucky enough that I contacted him spring 15 for an appointement in december 15. I was probably one of the last clients he took on.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
  2. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior member

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    May 12, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    

    He actually offered me a spot during his visit to Stockholm in spring this year, but I had decided that his cut wasn't quite what I was looking for.
     
  3. dawei94

    dawei94 Well-Known Member

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    Sep 3, 2010
    

    I think it'll get better over time, as someone in the Japanese shoe thread mentioned that he had taken on two new apprentices, which should hopefully increase his output capabilities. I estimate that he can only do about 40 jackets a year, given that the dartless Florentine style requires significantly more ironing to shape the fabric and his frequent trunk shows in Asia and Europe. He does 2 week long trunk shows in Japan at least twice a year, plus Beijing, HK, and Stockholm (and maybe somewhere in Germany as well). I think the combination of low headcount (it used to just be him and his wife), frequent trunk shows, a new child, losing his previous apprentice, and blowing up here on SF as the hot tailor of the moment increased the number of new order inquiries to unmanageable levels
     
  4. JohnnyDeVore

    JohnnyDeVore Member

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    Mar 27, 2016
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    CH
    He mentioned that in 2015 he made arround 80,90 Jackets - but also that this was way too much.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
  5. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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    Nov 2, 2014
    It's an interesting supply/demand pricing dynamic. Market forces would indicate he raise prices, but the long term nature of client relationships makes it more challenging.
     
  6. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    If you're interested in Pricing, email him. Asking a customer (who may have a different pricing due to location served, relationship with tailor, etc) might not be helpful.
     
  7. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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    or the customer may know where pricing is posted on the website... why i asked if someone was comfortable sharing, didn't ask/call out a specific individual
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. dawei94

    dawei94 Well-Known Member

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    Sep 3, 2010
    

    I posted the link to the pricing in a previous post on this thread if anyone is still looking for the Sartoria Corcos pricing. He has in fact raised prices a bit, when I went to go see him, I believe the price was 2.8k euros for a suit. It is now 3k. When we spoke, it sounded like he was not interested in raising prices too much, as we talked about some other tailors as well and when we got to some of the higher priced tailors, he made a wincing face and said something like "hmm, they are expensive." I think it is a similar philosophy to the shoemaker in Japan that charges a maximum of 150k yen for a pair of bespoke shoes because that is the maximum that he would spend on a pair of shoes. For better or for worse, that results in people being excluded from being clients on the basis of clients' patience (1.5 years before he starts taking new clients plus the 9-12 month wait time) rather than on the basis of clients' ability to pay (as many on here are suggesting that he should do)
     
  9. hippotamus

    hippotamus Senior member

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    Apr 30, 2014
    Sartoria Corcos has been a hit these years although I never really know what his house style are / is...

    His client base also seems to be relatively young (or maybe they are the one that is always active in the internet society)
     
  10. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    The stuff I've seen is slimmish, but slightly swelled in the chest. Little to no belly on the lapels, slightly dropped buttoning point, and a slightly longer body than what I've seen from Liverano. Very softly tailored.

    It's a nice cut. Really distinctive. I don't know his client base, but the look has obvious appeal to slightly younger guys (younger than 50 or whatever), who want something traditional, but a little different. Something with a bit of "spring" or "snap" to it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
  11. hippotamus

    hippotamus Senior member

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    Thanks DWW,

    Under this style, I can see the younger client base (which I am still assuming, again, based on the internet)

    Good he is stopping new orders as his demand > supply, especially with an emphasize on handwork & craftsmanship, tailors should do less trunk and focusing more on what the client really go them for, the product.

    P.S - btw, really nice outcome of your special run
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Apr 10, 2011
    

    Some tailors end up sourcing the work out in these cases. It seems he's not doing that, which is nice.
     
  13. dawei94

    dawei94 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 3, 2010
    

    From DWW's post on Sartoria Corcos (and from my own conversations with him), it sounds like he does trunk shows primarily to travel. He had mentioned to me last year that he was considering doing a trunk show in NY and possibly SF, and even then he already had plenty of orders, so it wasn't because he needed new business.
     
  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    or he travels to build his legend / reputation
     
  15. S K M

    S K M Senior member

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    Dec 11, 2012
    

    I think that is a very modest raising of prices compared to some other hyped tailor. Musella Dembech, for example, in two years raised his prices for a suit by a whopping 1300 euros :uhoh:
     
  16. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 12, 2015
    Location:
    Barcelona
    What I've seen from Corcos is very nice apart from the very open quarters, which I find a bit off, even for a florentine tailor.

    Do you happen to know if Seminara's cut has so open quarters?
     
  17. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    Feb 3, 2012
    You might want to look at their Instagram.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Solari

    Solari Senior member

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    110
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    Jan 6, 2016
    Hi guys,

    I live in London and would like to order a nice, moderately priced bespoke overcoat for winter. I don't want it too classic because I'm young and wouldn't always just wear it formally, but neither do I want it too far from classic. A nice balance ideally. Any recommendations for bespoke overcoat tailors?
     
  19. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Mar 12, 2009
    Location:
    English Flower Garden
    

    Here's http://steed.co.uk always good to work with, worth a chat at very least :nodding:
     
  20. Sander

    Sander Senior member

    Messages:
    2,893
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    Jul 28, 2006
    

    Good description I think, I'd just add that the lapels have no belly at all, in fact most are concave (which I love, I hate bellied lapels). Also, the jackets are maybe a bit shorter than "classic". On mine at least, I would have liked to be a little longer, but he was adamant (which I respect).
     
    1 person likes this.

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