Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    This also might be the photos, but it looks like they didn't fully address a low left shoulder--I say that because of a bit of crumpling on the left side around the mid-section. Hard to fix without some padding, I imagine. The trousers look great from the front. I think you've said that bow legs are an issue. It seems like they did a good job with that. Nice feel overall!
     


  2. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    This is the 7oz fabric right? Hard to not have wrinkles and look a bit off in pics.
     


  3. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I noticed that as well, but couldn't tell if maybe the jacket just didn't need some straightening given how the hem looks.

    If he really does need to adjust the left side, he could have the tailor adjust it without adding padding. It would just require taking it up at the shoulder line.

    Alternatively, if there's room, the tailor can let right side out so that it drops down. With a shorter jacket like that, I think that would be the better move.
     


  4. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    ^ :teach: The latter does make sense. Not that I really know anything but I wonder if dropping one side presents problems for left-right balance and keeping the center line straight.
     


  5. cchen

    cchen Senior member

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    Congrats. I'm sure your future commissions will turn out better and better. I've been meaning to try Coccinella.... I've ended up using Sarto Domenica and have loved his work so far
     


  6. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    Lovely cut and finishing. As you pointed out, a slight waist suppression could improve the fit a bit, as lengthen the jacket a couple of cms (rather a styling preference).

    My question is: how these asian tailors manage to "replicate" the soft italian tailoring so good? Are they south-italian trained?

    I have seen some pieces from Coccinella through tumblr before, and I though it was MTM done by Sartoria Partenopea or another neapolitan factory.

    Aside that, I love the fabric, but just for sportcoats.

    Best,
     


  7. cchen

    cchen Senior member

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    Coccinella does Florentine-style tailoring. There are other Japanese tailors that do Neapolitan.....
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2016


  8. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Look again. I actually have a dropped right shoulder. This is clearly visible in the rear photo.

    The only "crumpling" I can see is just some creasing in the fabric from having been packed in a box for transport.

    I did draw their attention to my dropped right shoulder and I think they have actually addressed it pretty well. I know they did some pinning at the time of the basted fitting to account for it.

    I will have the suit pressed (actually maybe do it myself, very carefully of course) and then get some "action" shots. I think it will show the suit better.
     


  9. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    Looks good mate. Another vote for lower buttoning point, some waist suppression and slightly longer length but overall a great first commission
     


  10. TriTTran

    TriTTran Member

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    Quote: What a coincidence! I saw your picture on Ciardi's instagram recently as a "happy customer" haha! Are they your favorite Neapolitan tailor? Why did u choose them instead of other great tailor eg Panico, Peluso, Saboni, ... ?
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2016


  11. otterhound

    otterhound Senior member

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    It is interesting. My first impression when I looked at the front view was that it could use considerably more waist suppression. But when I looked at the back view it seemed it needed little or no additional suppression. Not sure whether anyone else agrees with me or - assuming I'm not nuts - how the discrepancy would be addressed. Love the fabric. I'm definitely going with a WSL blend for my next suit.
     


  12. TriTTran

    TriTTran Member

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    I cannot agree with you about the back of Cifonelli suit. I don't know their cut and how it feels, but the picture of the back of the coat that you show me is a variation of fabric fold on overcoat. These types of fabric folds apear on casual jacket (eg shooting jacket) or overcoat, to give you more room to move, as these jackets and coats are usually cut looser. And these types of folds are used by all tailors, not only them. I can illustrate this with the picture from Ferdinando Caraceni tailor's instagram (below).

    [​IMG]

    Btw, outstanding Huntsman jackets, sir. It fits you like a glove! Were they all cut by mr.Dario? And were you allowed to choose cutters or Huntsman arrange it for you?
     


  13. TriTTran

    TriTTran Member

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    Maybe the tailor have used the drape cut? Since in my experience Asian tailors (particularly Japanese and Korean) tend to have similar housestyle as Neapolitan tailors.
     


  14. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    In the photo, your left shoulder looks low. Maybe it was just how you were standing and needing a pressing. You've got the jacket and the shoulders, so I'll take your word for it. But here's what I saw.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2016


  15. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Nope - youre wrong. Attached is a picture of the Cifonelli suit I'm wearing today. It is a little tricky to see because I'm taking a picture of my back in the mirror, but you can clearly see the folds of fabric through the back that give the drape. It is there in the back of every Cifo suit.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2016


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