Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.
I just never stop moving in an attempt to hide my fit flaws
There's more to it. Mass-produced coats are made in a way, as much as they can, that they look good on everyone, even if they don't fit. That's there aim, anyway. Nor is every tailor a master fitter. Something can look good, but really not fit, because the cloth is not in the right place. There are other factors, too. Shaping the cloth by shrinking, stretching, etc. Take shoulder blades. The cloth is flat, but it needs to be worked in a way that creates a pocket for the shoulder blades to fit into. If you go back to drape its purpose was to deceive on lookers into believing that the wimp is instead, athletic. In the US it became a huge fashion where everybody was trying to out do there peers with a new idea of drape. (The whole idea of brand name would be wanted like the anti-christ. Today's drape pushers are pushing drape like a name brand.) The world changes.
Well gentlemen, that's all very interesting. Thanks for the feedback and erudite comments. I'm just some schmuck who likes clothes, but every time I log on to this site (and this thread in particular), I learn.
Anyway, hot off the presses, here's my "mystery" commission, now complete, and being shipped as we speak -
The more eagle-eyed among you may be able to work out, from subtle clues in the pics, at least in which country this atelier is located.
Looks fantastic. Is that one of the Drapers' cloths from a few pages/discussions back?
Yes, their 2421 WSL blend. Only 7 1/2 oz, so probably intended as a jacketing. However, I've had it made up into a summer suit. A bit worried that the pants may be flimsy, but I've asked for some lining to extend part way down the pant legs to bolster their structure.
Here are some shots of a SC in the same cloth. This one, however, is from B&Tailor - I photographed it in their atelier last year.
That's exactly the right thing to do.
asian country due to lettering
That is a beautiful coat.
Although I am sure the front is just as beautiful, if I had that coat, I would walk backwards all the time - just to ensure everyone saw it.
OK guys, so here's the finished product. As some of you already guessed, this commission was from Coccinella in Osaka. I'm not aware of anyone else from SF having used them before.
On the whole I'd say it's a pretty good effort for a first commission. Styling is exactly as requested. Lots of well-executed handwork.
The jacket possibly could have done with a fraction more waist suppression and 1-2cm extra overall length. The right sleeve could maybe do with an extra 1cm length. I might have preferred a slightly lower buttoning point. The back is not totally clean but I think this has more to do with the very lightweight Draper WSL fabric than any mistake in the tailoring.
I'll talk to head tailor Mr Chujo about these issues. I could possibly send the jacket back, but it would probably be easier just to ask my alterations tailor in Sydney if he could make some small adjustments. Or even just leave it as is.
I will certainly use Coccinella again. Lovely people, a pleasure to deal with, and they showed a good understanding of modern "classic" styling.
You want it longer?
I'm hesitant to put too much weight on a few photos, but I think the jacket could use a little more length. The right sleeve might look short because your shirt sleeve was cut for a watch. Maybe you're not wearing one in the photo? If you put a watch on, the shirt sleeve will probably ride up a little.
The back of the sleeves look a little messy, but maybe that's due to how you're standing.
Trouser pleats also seem to flare out unnecessarily, but maybe that's also due to how you're standing.
Personally, I think the jacket might look a little better with a touch more padding in the shoulders and maybe even some extension. Or maybe it's just about pinching the waist. Not sure about that silhouette, but it also has a nice casual vibe for that fabric.
Pretty spot-on assessment. I have narrow shoulders and I think the jacket could have benefited from an extra 1cm extension to each shoulder. However, I wanted to avoid padding, and it's possible the shoulders might have drooped with extra extension and no padding. I guess this is a compromise. Anyway, a tad extra waist suppression might help to restore balance.
Messy sleeve backs and pleat flare are definitely due to my posture for the shots.
I was indeed going for a relaxed vibe here, hence the choice of cloth and lack of lining - all to allow the suit to be worn in Sydney's humid midsummer.
I've probably lost another 2kg since they measured me up, too.
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